Cru Jones

I'm struggling to understand why you would think that the 5" springs would potentially have clearance issues with bumpsteer spacers?

Not with the spacers themselves., The combination with the fixed camber plates and the spacers with the offset will cause the springs to be tweaked even more, so wanted to know if the upper spring assembly will have clearance with regards to the inner fender. 

Anyone use these with stock dia. springs (lowered) and fixed camber plates?  Any issues with spring clearance? 

I have some interest in this.

I'm surprised no one mentioned an E30 318is...I always liked 'em and finally bought a pretty nice, unmolested one a couple of years ago...it really is a modernized 2002 and that M42 motor just revs and revs...feels totally different from a six cylinder E30.  

 

But since I already have one in addition to my 2002s...I really can't think of anything (of comparable value) that I would trade an '02 for...

 

mike

I was on the fence about getting a 318is vs the 2002 that I got when I got my 2002 earlier in the year. I've wanted to get a 2002 for the last 5 years, so when the opportunity came I had to go with my heart and get it. A 318is would still be nice...

Mark - I'll take the 38/38. PM coming your way.

Perfect! Thanks Mint.

This might be hard to see, but the arrow is pointing to where I squirted a bit of lube. Ideally, if someone has a pic of where I should be lubing that would be great.

So my heater fan routinely makes the most annoying high pitched sound that's only remedied by turning it off. I've been told that you can lube the fan, but am struggling to find the exact spot to point my Tri-Flow's nozzle to lube. Anyone have a good picture showing where exactly to lube it? I've searched and only found vague references, not an actual picture showing where. Thanks.

I've been there before. It's a relief when the answer is found, but frustrating it took so long to get there.

Yes, nice work Max. I like #1 of your latest grouping.

@eurotrash - At this point nothing is out of the realm of possibilities. I'll make it a point to check that when I take the carb off this week.

Well, stumbled upon an interesting discovery tonight while lubing my heater fan. Seems one of the POs in their infinite wisdom decided to remove the accelerator pump linkage. Never thought to give that a second glance because why would you ever mess with that? Pretty sure the diaphragm is still intact, but am truly baffled why someone would remove that.    Luckily, I have a spare 32/36 laying around that I can scavenge parts off and will do that sometime this weekend. At this point I feel I've got to take the carb completely off and make sure it's not totally fubar'd. 

I share in your search annoyances. Often I've found a thread where someone links to an older thread with the answer and that link ends in a 'page not found' error. I suppose it has to do with the migration process, but annoying nonetheless.

Can we do Additions #1 to have the font of the badge? I think that would make it look a little better. Also, maybe a different font for the FAQ that's more in-line with the original '2002' badge.

Thanks Andrew. 

my car has  old Facet fuel pump mounted above the tank with inline filter. Pump is Loud when the gas tank is empty.

There's a simple solution to that; don't let it get empty.

Seriously though, how do you drive it when the gas tank is empty?

I think something simple, like just the '02' from the '2002' logo centered over the roundel then remove the black border with the 'BMW' and put a black rectangle shape on the bottom of the roundel with just 'FAQ' in similar font to '2002' below. If I had any sort of skill I'd do this in photoshop and it'd look decent, but I don't so you'll have to use your imagination with the below.

Well, if bigger correctors helped, maybe you're running RICH at WOT and lean at idle/light cruise.

 

A bog's as good as a lean, as far as power loss is concerned.  Black smoke out the tailpipe when this happens?

 

I agree, fuel pressure's maybe not the most likely, but it's also easy to rule out with one of those compound vacuum/pressure gauge

that I seem to accumulate...

 

A suggestion- get a main jet leaner and a jet richer than you have.  Try them.  One bore at a time.  If it's lean on the primary

and stupid rich on the secondary, that MIGHT be doing what you're getting.

 

Next random thought- power valve is good, right?

 

hth

 

t

No smoke that I've seen at any throttle opening.

Lean on primary and rich on secondary was actually my first thought when I found out what the mains were. Seemed too different to me. How do you go about properly tuning that though? Do you get a WBO2 and just notice the AFR before the secondary kicks in and after? If it were just too lean on primary how do you really tell? Oh, power valve seems ok. Wasn't sure how that would factor into what I'm experiencing.

I like number 1 as well, but I think it would look better with the outer ring black with white lettering vs the half white/blue outer ring.

Edit: or basically number 4 with the outer ring black.

First thing i got on my mind after your report after changing the jets/corectors.

Check if you can actually open the carburetors to max. The same thing happend to me with 2x40dcoe weber, first gear no problem till 6400, second was struggling to get to 6000. The problem was. I pushed the throttle to the floor and the carburetors was not fully opened.

I'll check that out. Wouldn't think that was the issue, but sometimes it's the most obvious and least checked that's the root.

Ah, sorry, missed this for a while.  Unfortunately, you want the gauge to be visible when you have your foot on the floor

in 3rd and 4th under load at the problem spots.  It's not trivial to do- i usually use a tee and a length of

fuel line, and zip- tie the thing to a wiper arm or something like that.

 

this is what makes me really think it's fuel; it sounds like it's burning faster than it can pump.

Or that there's a restriction at the needle valve- but you've found (and cleaned) the final- stage filter...

 

 nope, this is exactly what the air correctors do- they add AIR to the emulsified fuel mixture, so a LARGER air makes

the mixture leaner, a SMALLER air makes the mixture richer.

But they don't have as big an effect as the mains- the rule of thumb is that 3 jets (say, 15) difference is about 

the same as one (5) difference in mains, in the part of the range where they're affecting the mixture.

This is a bit of a guess, but it's the right idea.

 

Hey, are you sure the secondary bore is opening? 

 

t

re: gauge - Thanks for clarifying. I was hoping that wasn't the case, but will sort that out sometime this week.

re: corrector jets - So my understanding is that the larger the jet the leaner the mixture. When I described the issue to the guy at Pierce he said that he doubted it was pressure related, but that the mixture was too lean up top, so suggested I go down a few sizes in the corrector jets. I did that, which made it worse (moved the problem down 1K in the rev range or so). So, at that point I wasn't sure what the problem was, but figured I'd try moving to the larger corrector jets and see if they made a difference. Surprisingly they made it run better. So, now I'm at the point where I doubt it's pressure related because the corrector jets being larger made it run better (one would assume that if it was pressure related they smaller corrector jets would have helped, not made it worse). With that said, I'll still run a longer piece of fuel line and verify the PSI when above 5500, but figure I need to get a WBO2 setup to get to the bottom of this.

re: seconday - never thought to check, but that's a good idea to check and will do that.

So today I got a fuel pressure gauge and all looks good. PSI at idle fluctuates from 3.75-4.5. This gauge is a 'Mr. Gasket' gauge, so I'm sure that it could running a bit high. Revving up to 4K the wifey said the PSI never dropped below 4, so I'm pretty confident that my pressure is not an issue.

When I get off my motorcycle my beautiful fun little car just seems too slow.

Depending on the bike it's going to take a lot of car to make the car seem not too slow. Modern sport bikes will out perform most cars < $100K. If I want to go fast I get on my bike. If I want to go slow, but not be exposed to the elements I drive my '02. I still enjoy the '02, but in terms of acceleration, speed, etc. it's not the same nor would I ever expect to be. A friend told me once with regards to doing trackdays in car vs bike that the bike was like crack, while the car was like cocaine. What's all this rambling mean? Don't expect a Turbo'd '02 to be anywhere near as fast as a modern sport bike.

In FTW. ...and badges too.

Ok, got the new corrector jet and had some interesting findings.

Swapping the 150 corrector over to the secondary from the primary and putting a 140 into the primary I noticed my problem actually got worse. Instead of the prior 5500 in 3rd (and 4th assuming) I was only able to pull about 4300.

Since I had another 32/36 laying around with 160/165 corrector jets I swapped them into the car and now it has no problems revving above 6K in 2nd and 3rd. This is odd to me in that putting in more restrictive corrector jets made the car run better when they in theory would be leaning out the mixture in the last 25% of the rev range (per my understanding). At this point I need to get a pressure gauge and a WB02 to fully sort out what's going on.

Lucian - I'd be very interested in this when you get it done. I just need to sort out how I'd get it to work with a center exhaust...