Cru Jones

Since I don't have my pressure gauge just yet I was wondering if the fuel pressure is low (should be ~3.5 psi, right?) would that cause the plugs to look like the jetting is lean? Or would they look normal? Just curious more than anything...

edit: I spoke with the guys at Pierce Manifolds and they said what I'm experiencing is most likely the result of the air corrector jets being too lean vs the main jets. So, I ordered some corrector jets and will update once I have a chance to drop them in.

I checked the rotor and it's not the rev-limited type. Also of note I was able to rev to 6K in 2nd, but not in 3rd (still). I'll get the pressure gauge next. Stupid question, am I only looking for the pressure at idle or will I need someone to rev it to 5500 while I monitor the gauge to get a true sense of what's going on?

Thanks Toby. I'll check the dist cap and put a pressure gauge on if that's not restricted. Is it easy to remove the restrictor if it has one in place? I haven't seen that mentioned before (not that I was searching for that).

So, noticed this. Doubt it would cause what I'm experiencing, but interesting how much crap is in there.

Setup: I have a Weber 32/36 on a car with stock cam running unknown headers and a very custom exhaust. Exhaust is basically a straight 2" OD pipe from secondary to the end of the muffler. Primary corrector jet is 150 and main jet is 150 as well. Secondary corrector is 160 and main is 190.

Problem: Car won't rev in hard accel above 5500 rpm.

Thoughts: Car is running too lean main jets (at least) and possibly air corrector jets. At first I thought it was fuel flow, so replaced the filter, but no dice. Plugs when I changed them not too long after I got the car looked to indicate a lean condition (going by my motorcycle knowledge). Car runs well and is seemingly great right up until you hit 5500. I'm thinking I need to at least increase my mains +10 (160/200), but wasn't sure if it was possibly just my primary and/or both mains and if additionally I need to increase my correctors. I plan to get a wideband O2 setup to do this properly, but wanted to get on the right path as not being able to rev past 5500 is no fun. This car only starts getting fun above 4500.

How much do you want for them or is this an auction?

Judging by his 10K CL ads I'd say $1200, which is far and above the ~$700 that someone could find them for new, which is also why he is still trying to sell them.

Keep the videos coming. Love watching them.

Good looking car. I've attached the dyno sheets from the site.

Nicely done. I can empathize with you about not having a garage space having lived in NYC for 9 years (7 of which in Brooknam). I swapped an old head gasket on my CB500T on the sidewalk. Good times...

I dont know how to upload full

size from p-bucket

Here you go: 

The image was not showing for me, but I tracked it down. It's below.

On most connectors like that you have to put in a very small straight slot screw driver to depress the tab that keeps the wire in the connector then the wires pull out from behind.

Sent you a PM. I have one lying around I can hook you up with.

Since you're in CA and you have a '76 you might want to be careful with a bigger cam as you'll quickly run into issues passing SMOG. Surprised you pass SMOG already with a Weber 38/Cannon intake/tii manifold.

Great pic. Congrats.

I really like the FAQ bar. Due to the additional negative camber from the plates I installed I was not sure if it would fit without modification. The price was right too.

The strut mounting holes in your frame haven't moved have they? 

...I just love building things, and bats

I got a good laugh out of that post. lol

Depends on East Bay or Peninsula.  

If East Bay then Casey Motorsports - http://www.caseymotorsports.com/cms/Welcome.html

If Peninsula - Motorspeed West - http://www.motorspeedwest.com/

Curious as to how long this took with the wheels and suspension installed.

Looking for a set of fixed camber plates. If you have a set let me know.

On most modern bikes the master link is "riveted." What I mean by that is we have special master links that require special chain tool that essentially holds the one side of the link while mushrooming out the pivots. I would think that car timing chains would be put on with the same sort of tool. They make one of those tools for motorcycle cam chains.

This is the cam chain rivet tool for motos.

Decently tuned I'm getting 26-ish mpg on my 38/38 (%70 freeway %30 around town).

That's pretty good. I really need to sort out my jetting. I have no idea why my mpg is such crap. Car runs well though. :|

What are people's real world mpg on the 38 anyway? My exhaust is massive and I'm pretty sure I'm jetted rich to compensate, so I'm lucky to get 22mpg for my commute/tooling around town in my 32/36. Wonder how much worse it would be in the 38...

Bummer, but I understand.