Jump to content

ingramlee

Solex
  • Posts

    942
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    75%

Everything posted by ingramlee

  1. Ahhh... Starting to make a little sense. Also, is it possible to have the shaft/disc rotated 180 degrees out? I assume if the wheels and the steering wheel are aligned straight then the shaft and the box will be in the correct position to realign. I marked the box and the shaft with paint for re-installation but the degreaser I used to clean everything while it was removed apparently removed my marks. Thanks fellas
  2. Brandon, You are correct. I never removed the disc when I dropped the subframe. I simply removed the lower pinch bolt and dropped the frame and with a little prying it came apart fairly easily.
  3. Marty, The steering column is Unlocked... Please explain the horn ring???? My car does not have a working horn. Thanks.
  4. Got the motor mount fixed and almost got the sub-frame reinstalled. The problem I'm having is getting the steering shaft all the way down onto the box collar. I tried wedging the lower pinch bolt open and pushing hard on the steering wheel but it simply wont go on any further. I am looking for suggestions & things to try. Should I try loosening the three steering box frame bolts or the subframe bolts? Also turning the steering wheel is much harder now. I obviously have something wrong.
  5. Fixed my cracked DS motor mount. Still need to file it and clean it up a little but I'm happy with my first welding job. Sorry for the crappy photo.
  6. Maybe you should post this in parts wanted, not parts for sale.
  7. Very Nice... Wish my area did stuff like this. Closest is probably the Cincinnati group.
  8. Well guys its been more than three months since this original post and I still have not found the courage or time to attempt to replace the seeping head gasket. Frankly I haven't done much at all to the car lately since I've been gearing up to moving to a new home. Maybe once were all settled into the new place in a few more weeks I will get off of my !@#$ and quit neglecting my car.
  9. Gary No worries... Removing the spoiler and patching the holes really isn't a priority. I have been concentrating on other issues with the car. You will be the first person I reach out to once I do decide to take it off though. Thanks!
  10. Yeah, I lived in San Diego for 25 years. When I was there that area was known for a lot of stolen cars and shady deals.
  11. Toby, I'm almost there. You and 2002Scoob almost have me convinced I can do this. hmmmmm. Stay tuned!
  12. Scoob... I am extremely intimidated with the thought of removing the head. I've read articles about how to tie the chain & sprocket so it doesn't move and whatnot and making sure everything is extremely clean, but it still frightens the hell out of me that I wont get something put back right then fire it up and "KABOOM"
  13. Buckeye.. I have tons of things at work to get done before I leave for vacation in June. I will certainly reach out to you when i'm back. Except for the annoying tapping/ticking and now this coolant leak the car has been running really nice since you helped me last. Thank you!
  14. Simeon, I have checked that once but will check again. Thanks...
  15. The leak or weep appears to be directly between the #2 & #3 intake ports, not at the back of the block. There is no coolant in the oil as I have changed the oil and coolant twice in the last three months and they both were pristine.
  16. Folks, I think I have a leaking head gasket. Please see the attached photos. I continue to see fluid on the bottom ledge of the block- intake side. It appears to be coolant but there doesn't seem to be a loss of coolant in the radiator. Could this be the cause of my ticking/knocking @ 2K RPM upon releasing the accelerator?
  17. Yes, once I find someone to fill the holes I will be selling the spoiler
  18. Folks, I think I have decided to remove the rear trunk spoiler. I think I like the car better without it. The spoiler is only attached by three #10 stainless sheet metal screws with holes drilled thru the trunk. I frankly don't know why it hasn't fallen off on its own. Anyway... I took it to a auto body shop to get a price to weld the holes shut and repainted. I was told he would have me a price in a couple of days. I got a call a day later from the shop indicating they didn't feel comfortable doing the job in fear of warping the lid from the heat of the welder. I'm looking for suggestions on filling in these three small holes. Could they be filled in with BONDO and repainted, or should I look for another shop? I have added a couple of photos for reference. Thanks
  19. Looking for a stock 3.64 Diff. The closer to the Midwest the better but shipping is not totally out of the question. PM me if you have one to sell.
  20. I believe the blue manual says the proper torque for the big end bearing caps is 38-41 ft/lb. can someone confirm this. THX
  21. Taking into account the photo and the plastigage readings above, should I replace the bearings or put them back in? something caused the scarring on the bearings but the crank is completely smooth and shiny
  22. OK bare with me here I'm still learning. Here are the journal readings. If these are correct and I did them each twice, am I within spec? What size bearings should I buy? Feedback encouraged. Thanks #1 .051 mm #2 .038 mm #3 .051 mm #4 .038 mm
×
×
  • Create New...