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Stevenc22

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Everything posted by Stevenc22

  1. Stevenc22
    Are you keeping any emissions equipment or are you running the bare minimum?
  2. Stevenc22
  3. Stevenc22
    You did not miss anything. The springs are too short and don't shit in the perch when jacked up off the ground. I put some PCV tubing over the ends of the springs and safety wired in the bottom to hold it in place. Then when I lower the car down, I carefully guide the spring into the top perch. Once lowered the spring will sit nicely in the perch.
  4. Stevenc22
    You guys are awesome, rear drums just needed adjustment...
  5. Stevenc22
    I changed front bearings only. But its funny you mention that because there were so many jobs where i thought i was done and was cleaning up my tools and come across a stray bolt or washer that i forgot!
  6. Stevenc22
    Thanks guys, good advise, ill check it out tonight. Everything is new, shoes, drums, master cylinders, springs ect. Ill try playing around with the brakes to see what the problem is.
  7. Stevenc22
    After a 2 month restoration, on the first test drive 2 small issues have been discovered. 1) Rear passenger side wheel seems to be binding. With the wheel off, the hub spins freely, but when you add the wheel and torque the lug nuts, something binds and the wheel is very difficult to spin. Any thoughts? 2) The engine start and idles very nicely when cold, but as the engine heats up the idle becomes lumpy and so does the power delivery. The engine has a weber 32/36 with all smog controls removed. I have not yet set timing or dialed in the carb, but I'm wondering if something else could cause the bad running when hot. Thanks Steven
  8. Stevenc22
    Anton, im interested in buying your conversion kit. Please email stevencarstens at hotmail dot com Thanks Steven
  9. Stevenc22
    Any bolt will do. The gasket is what stops the leak, you just need a bolt or stud to apply pressure to the gasket. If you got a bolt in there, then you are good to go.
  10. Stevenc22
    Sounds like the some of the smog equipment was removed. If you are in an area where you do not have to pass any smog tests then you can removed all the electromagnetic vacuum valves and simplify the wiring and the vacuum lines... You don't need the air pump, diverter valve, EGR ect. here is a diagram for a 76 with the smog equipment.
  11. Stevenc22
    OH MY LORD. I order Addco and they didn't fit and had the wrong bushings. Im still in the process of returning them. I ended up order ST sway bars from Summit Racing. They fit great and had the right bushings. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemVersion&item=330800537503&view=all&tid=727737833014
  12. Stevenc22
    Greasable means it has a grease nipple on the bracket to attach a grease gun to grease the bushing. Unnecessary if properly greased to begin with, grease should last a while. I warn you the pictures of the bushings you posted look very different than the bushings i just installed YESTERDAY. I have a 1976 but my brackets have dual bolts on one side and no bolts on the other side which is different than the bushings pictures. I would probably not buy bushings from oriellys, likely generic bushings that may not fit your vehicle well.
  13. Stevenc22
    Im finishing up the mechanical restoration of my 76 2002. Looking for a shop familiar with older BMW's and who can dial in the timing and Weber 32/36 for me. Thanks Steven
  14. Stevenc22
    Thanks for the clear response. I followed the second negative wire in the smog harness and it runs to one of the smog electronic relays. In the harness that remains, there are 2 wires as it reaches the distributer. One runs to a sensor on the top of the block below the distributer and the other goes into the distributer and then on to the coil.
  15. Stevenc22
    Bump for edit.
  16. Stevenc22
    Need help. im removing my smog harness from my '76. Following instructions from C0ollinster742002 I have removed most of the harness. Here are the questions I have open. 1) Originally there were 2 wires on the positive of the coil and 2 wires on the negative of the coil. Removing the smog harness and extracting the one wire is going to leave a single positive and single negative wire. Does this sound correct? 2) I have a new blue Bosch coil, so should I run regular wire or the resistor wire from the fuse box # 12 to the coil? 3) When I attach to the fuse box # 12 does it matter which side of the fuse I attach to? I removed a green and green/white wire from the fuse box when I removed the smog harness. I am only attaching back a single wire. Does it matter whether I clip it into the left or right side of the fuse?
  17. Stevenc22
    The 76 has a distributer with a advance and a retard. Do I leave the retard unhooked on the distributer? Where do I run the advance to? We have a few candidates. The vacuum on the manifold under the carb?. Plug all other vacuum nipples including the one on the fuel return?
  18. Stevenc22
    With the emissions equipment removed, how do i run the vacuum lines? Do i need to rewire the black electromagnetic valve at all? Are the white and red electromagnetic valves just completely capped now?
  19. Stevenc22
    Yes. When I removed mine, I was removing my intake manifold at the same time (having it ported to fit the weber 38/38). I didn't think I could access the intake manifold nuts on the underside with the egr thing in place. Remove your alternator, and slide it out the front. It can be a bitch. I was afraid you were going to say that
  20. Stevenc22
    Im running a new weber 32/36. I would like to stick to the vacuum distributer for now since its pretty much brand new. Any thoughts on how I should plumb the new vacuum setup would be helpful. Do I need the control box still? What should I cap?
  21. Stevenc22
    Can the egr gas filter be removed with the intake manifold in place???
  22. Stevenc22
    Okay im current redoing the studs on the exhaust manifold and now have just decided to remove all emissions equipment, switch to a tii manifold and go from there. I'm in Texas so I don't have to worry about passing emissions. In the diagram below. I'm going to remove all mechanical items with the red line on it. The block off plate sold by this site, its that to block off where the EGR value connects to the intake manifold? What do I do with the red electromagnetic vacuum lines? Plug them? If so where, on the value or after it meets the control valve? Any wiring I need to do? By the way I have search the forum and there are lots of half information, and no real full step by step which surprised me.
  23. Stevenc22
    Yup it was fully warmed up and choke fully opened before tuning
  24. Stevenc22
    I installed a new reline weber 32/36 water choke carb today. I ended up with the mixing screw at 2.5 turns for a smooth idle. Per the instructions that came with the carb, that's too many turns! Shouldn't the carb have come correctly jetted from Redline? Is it really a big difference between 1.5 turns and 2.5 turns? Thanks Steven
  25. Stevenc22
    The dowl pin in the shifter linkage is stuck. Pushing from the top, it comes down a 1/8 of an inch and then seems to bind. No matter how hard I push from the top into the hole, the pin doesn't seem to want to come out the bottom. Late model shifter by the way. Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Also my shifter platform is completely loose. I have the rogerstii rebuild kit so I have the mounts, but im having a hard time visualizing how to remove the shifter platform with the tranny and driveline in place. Any pics would be helpful as well. Thanks Steven
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