Conserv
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Status Replies posted by Conserv
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Hello Conserv
I am excited to report I have acquired a set of CMR/Borrani Alpina rims. But no center caps or lugs. Can you point me in the right direction to get proper lugs and center caps? I am aware I need a 57mm diameter center cap and found them on Ebay for 157 bucks? but perhaps there are other sources? I am not aware of the proper lug nuts though?
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Congrats!
Borrani’s have triangular cutouts, Alpina’s have circular cutouts.For the center caps, you can find used original sets — most with lots of patina — on German eBay (good used originals tend to cost more than repros). Or you can buy Pehlivanov’s well-done reproductions:
I don’t have great source for lug nuts. Thread size 12, pitch 1.5. Attached at the end of this reply is a period photo of an Alpina steelie.
There was a recent discussion of the lug nut issue. But I can’t locate it.
Regardless, pages 17-19 of the following thread discuss sources for the lug nuts.
Best regards,
Steve
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Hi,
I read your post on the Polaris color with great interest because my ‘74 is being repainted in Polaris now and the body shop is telling me there is more than one formula.
From your post my guess is that the confusion stems from the “frei” variation. Rather than choosing between two mock ups, is there a way to tell which version of Polaris my car was painted with originally?Many thanks,
-Doug
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Doug,
From some time in the 1973 model year through the end of 2002 production in July 1976, BMW’s Polaris formulations were of the PVC-frei formula. But it remained paint code 060, the same paint code as several preceding formulations of the 2002 era. During the Neue Classe era, however, BMW briefly used a Polaris color having a 057 paint code. So I suspect the difference your body shop is finding might relate to the two different Polaris paint codes, 057 and 060, rather than changes of formulation within either code.
If it’s unclear whether your two shades of Polaris are attributable to paint codes 057 and 060, I’d recommend choosing the color that best matches some un-touched original samples in your car, such as you might find in the trunk, or under the dash or carpet. As a Polaris car, you must assume that all or most of the car has been re-painted post-factory.
Regards,
Steve
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Your reputation is as outstanding as your knowledge. I’m an older guy who was lucky enough to buy a new 1974 2002 with my twin brother when we turned 16. Sold a ‘61 23 window split window VW bus we had rebuilt and spent every penny of paper route money we earned. $6,200 out the door. It was a great car, ultimately saved my brother and his friends after rolling off a cliff in Colorado years later. My daughter was born in 2002. Wife wouldn’t let me name her “Beemer” but she now loves the old cars. Hope to find one we can afford soon. Been looking but they have gotten so expensive, even with salvage titles. Please keep sharing your knowledge. It is helpful and you are clearly leading a continuing generation of love for the 2002s. I am partial to the square lens, but that is due to history. Stay well.
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Thanks for your great memories! I suspect our paths to early ‘02 ownership have similarities.
I bought my first ‘02 in 1973, when I was 16. It was a mint 1970 with 20K miles on it, but... the left front corner was wrecked and the car had been sitting for more than 6 (8?) months waiting for new repair parts. Hoffman Motors Corp was not interested in BMW parts! The owner was tired of waiting. $300 bucks to the insurance company, who made the owner whole. But when I was 14, I had bought a 1958 Mercedes for $50 — engine wouldn’t start — and that started my brief-but-profitable career, 14 to 19 years old, fixing and selling cars. One Mercedes, two Audi’s, and two BMW’s netted me $6,500. OK, a rising Deutschmark and soaring demand for German cars didn’t hurt, and may deserve most of the credit. But I was oblivious to such factors. Just loved German cars. And just lucky. My indulgent parents let me buy a new 1976 with it, a car I still own. Could have put that $6,500 in the Magellan Fund and it would have been worth a million today. No regrets!
Those early years leave an amazing impression on a person!
Thanks for writing!
Best regards,
Steve C.
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Senor' You want a steeker for you tool box.
dq
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Steve;
I am getting ready to refurbish the rear swing axles and was curious if you know if the stub axles should be painted on the exterior face. When I removed them they were very corroded as were the plated covers so I bead blasted the axles to get through he rust and corrosion to bare metal.
I am not painting the swing axles as I want them to be OE, but will remove the surface rust in places like behind the brake plate, though the OE plates were so corroded with adjusters rounded (but black) I am replacing them with new (also black).
I can't go new as they are 30mm Turbo stubs, hubs, bearings......
Medium semi-gloss black?
Thanks,
Ted
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Thank you for that, Ted!
I’ve long believed the color of chassis and engine compartment elements — and any other hidden-away components — varied from batch to batch, but stayed within some band of acceptability. And not-too-glossy, not-too-flat pretty much sums up the range, which is why we often waffle, saying things like “semi-gloss or satin”: both glosses represent original finishes.
Best,
Steve
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Steve;
I am getting ready to refurbish the rear swing axles and was curious if you know if the stub axles should be painted on the exterior face. When I removed them they were very corroded as were the plated covers so I bead blasted the axles to get through he rust and corrosion to bare metal.
I am not painting the swing axles as I want them to be OE, but will remove the surface rust in places like behind the brake plate, though the OE plates were so corroded with adjusters rounded (but black) I am replacing them with new (also black).
I can't go new as they are 30mm Turbo stubs, hubs, bearings......
Medium semi-gloss black?
Thanks,
Ted
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Hahaha, I see where this is going. Wonder if they make a 185/60/`13 now?
dq
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hi conserv
i,m not bot
thanks
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Hi Conserv, thank you again for instant knowledge!, worked out I think for best … " Alternators 80+ amp"....they have a 80 amp alt on ebay for 2002,1600, etc not shown on faq it is $100.00 less than the tii one w/ reg built in … I am near them and chat with Kirk at BNR by tel 818-442-9082 open 8-5 m-f and 8-11 Sat … to drop in 1600, it works size wise, (sent pics and measurements) except if you have reg on side wall you have to do some wiring … so game plan is the alt I bought in Oregon will change out with mine and mine will be re-manuf to a 80 + amp and I will put new reg on side wall, no extra wiring ... will give update 1st phase Monday am …. thanks again your info helped me make decisions I am thrilled about … Lucian
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Hi, Mike,
Please put me on the waiting list for a set of Recaro seat adapters.
Thanks and regards,
Steven Cappel
New York, NY 10032
917-691-1944
(conserv)
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Hi Steve,
I have a couple of questions for you. First I am not sure if you have seen a recent eBay post. It is a UK listings a 76 Ti.
I was unaware there is/was one ever offered. I have contacted the seller and he assures me its legit. It is a RH drive. He says he has documentation but I am waiting on the VIN. to verify. Have not been abe to dig up much on similar cars.....any in sight?
Regards,
Mike
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Hi Steve,
I have a couple of questions for you. First I am not sure if you have seen a recent eBay post. It is a UK listings a 76 Ti.
I was unaware there is/was one ever offered. I have contacted the seller and he assures me its legit. It is a RH drive. He says he has documentation but I am waiting on the VIN. to verify. Have not been abe to dig up much on similar cars.....any in sight?
Regards,
Mike
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Hi, Mike,
Factory ti production ended in early 1971, before April 1971. Factory tii production ended sometime in the 1975 calendar year. But in some jurisdictions, the date on the title is the year the car was first registered. And titles are sometimes simply wrong. My '70 was titled as a '69, I attempted to correct it, they titled it as a '71, I said that was wrong, they re-titled it as a '69, I moved on to more important topics. In short, you never know.
The only credential that really matters is the email you receive from BMW Archives after you send them the VIN (info.grouparchiv@bmwgroup.com) and request their data. This will tell you the manufacturing date and, especially important in this case, the sub-model designation. If it simply says "2002", it's a 2002, not a ti, not a tii. You've gotta get the VIN. The price of 10,000 £ is ludicrous: it suggests a seller who is out of touch with the market, but who has heard that some ti's and tii's sell for huge dollars!
Please let me know what you discover.
Best regards,
Steve
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I just saw the seat covers on your recovered 02 seats with the perforated heat weld on the basketweave sections. They look factory stock - can you please give me the contact info of your upholstery shop, or the company that made the seat covers. Thanks! ^^
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The perforated vinyl, heat sealed and all, on these '72-manufactured seats is factory stock. So, yes, I cheated. My starting points were a near-mint June '72 passenger seat -- from a totaled '72 tii I parted in '74 -- and an excellent October '72 driver's seat I found on eBay 2 years ago for $300 -- it had been turned into a freestanding desk chair on wheels in the 1980's and then forgotten.
The smooth vinyl faces of the seats were replaced, however, as the panels had aged//been treated very differently.
My upholsterer, for both sets of front seats, was The Mad Stitcher, in Atlanta, GA -- where I lived during those two seat rebuilds. I'm pretty nutty, but I haven't found decent substitutes for the perforated and pleated sections of the seats. The smooth vinyl is easy to match.
Best regards,
Steve
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Steve -
Thanks for your encouragement on the old Tii #2761091. After moving the car to a nice garage at a friend's nearby farm, I started probing around on MON. The engine is a matching serial number! Looking around when I changed out the bottle cap alloys for a set of slotted steel wheels that came off my '73, the car looks good underneath structurally. The RH front fender is perforated (nickel sized hole aft of the wheel well from the SR drain and pocketed debris). Other than that, the rust seems to be surface rust on the upper surfaces of the hood, roof, and truck from being outside. I titled it today as a "Collector" vehicle and my plan is to restore at least to driver quality. I'll be draining the fuel and oil next week, and putting in fresh, along with some basic preservation. It think this care deserves a chance to get out on the road again. It hasn't been driven in 19 years. There's 52,000 miles on the odometer. I imagine in those first 25 years, it probably went around at least once and must have at least 152K on it. It's ugly, but it's all there. And yes the steel wheels in the trunk at dated '72. And I did get the hub caps :-)
Regards,
Bill Loomis
XAVMECH
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Steve -
Thanks for your encouragement on the old Tii #2761091. After moving the car to a nice garage at a friend's nearby farm, I started probing around on MON. The engine is a matching serial number! Looking around when I changed out the bottle cap alloys for a set of slotted steel wheels that came off my '73, the car looks good underneath structurally. The RH front fender is perforated (nickel sized hole aft of the wheel well from the SR drain and pocketed debris). Other than that, the rust seems to be surface rust on the upper surfaces of the hood, roof, and truck from being outside. I titled it today as a "Collector" vehicle and my plan is to restore at least to driver quality. I'll be draining the fuel and oil next week, and putting in fresh, along with some basic preservation. It think this care deserves a chance to get out on the road again. It hasn't been driven in 19 years. There's 52,000 miles on the odometer. I imagine in those first 25 years, it probably went around at least once and must have at least 152K on it. It's ugly, but it's all there. And yes the steel wheels in the trunk at dated '72. And I did get the hub caps :-)
Regards,
Bill Loomis
XAVMECH
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Bill,
You're quite welcome. Thank you for circling back to me!
It certainly seems like a lot of car for the money, and I'm glad it's going to get a second chance at life after it was deemed a parts car. Given how values and the collectibility of these cars are changing daily, I suspect more than a few cars labeled "parts cars" in previous years are going to wind up being "restorable collectibles". I sincerely hope this is one of them!
Lots of original components: engine, rims, etc.!
Take your time.
Best regards,
Steve
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