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Awesome work - very neat welding on the quarter panel, looks like you managed to avoid distortion, i like looking at this blog for my inspiration!

While repairing (replacing!) the firewall i noticed there some sort of sealant actually between the firewall and transmission tunnel seam, my questions are a)can i replace this sealant with something when i plug weld the new steel on? and is that why there is a bead rolled in the firewall where it joins the trans tunnel - to hold the sealant? http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OKdMCILG6qo/T08jBNQUOSI/AAAAAAAAAqo/aicqCaLJFeY/s1600/IMG_0778.JPG

Love it - the car and the vineyard look like they belong together, both a bit weathered but beautiful! Nice photography as well.

Thanks for all the replies, i scratch tested both paints, the BMW genuine panels were hard to scrach off and the Walloth panels scratched very easily, so ill be stripping the Walloth panels completly and applying epoxy primer, the BMW panels ill leave and apply an additional coat of epoxy primer.

BTW apart from the indifferent paint quality the Walloth panels look good, decent gauge steel and nice stampings - happy with them

I've just received panels from Walloth and Nesch, a mixture of genuine BMW painted black and some Walloth repair panels painted a light grey. Should i strip off this paint and then epoxy primer, or scuff and epoxy primer over the supplied panel paint? In other words is the quality of the BMW/Walloth paint good enough to retain or is it poor quality and will compromise the subsequent paint coatings?

Looks great and love that colour. IMHO i like the look of the old 1K paints that you have to cut and polish, the downside is their not as tough as the newer 2k epoxys. Still undecided which to use on my project!

Thanks for all the replies guys, will be getting a quote from the dealer here in NZ. My car is being stripped down to the shell for rust repairs and the sills are bad, fortunately the inners look good!

Can anyone confirm that this is the right part number for the left outer sill - 41 35 6 440 140 ? (1972 2002 Saloon) Its not very clear on the online parts catalogue and is described as 'covering left', this is my first batch of parts im ordering and dont want the wrong parts to ship to NZ! Its number 3 on this diagram

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=ST13&mospid=47129&btnr=41_1144&hg=41&fg=20

Hi Guys, I used dry ice yesterday to remove soundproofing, did a post on my blog http://2002bmwinnz.blogspot.com/ if anyone else is thinking of doing it this way i'd recommend it

Thanks for the replies, i was considering using this epoxy primer http://www.houseofkolor.com/hok/PDF/TechData/English/2007/KD2000.pdf anyone have experience of the product or aware of any reaction with the factory primer?

Hi Guys, Ive started to strip the underside of the car, the intention was to strip back to bare metal and then apply a 2k epoxy primer. The factory primer appears to be very well applied so i was wondering it would be best to

a) Remove factory grey primer, scuff and apply 2k epoxy or

Scuff factory primer then apply 2k epoxy

Any personal experiences - is the factory primer good and worth retaining, does 2k epoxy react with it?

Heres a pic of the area ive started stripping http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2f68SZi5fts/TwKi-j7yTVI/AAAAAAAAAgQ/Ew-NU5YDYwo/s320/IMG_0555.JPG more pics on my blog

Wow, we both have spent our Xmas holidays in a very similar way - check my Blog! http://2002bmwinnz.blogspot.com/ - even the same colour, you are a lot further down the track than me which is good for my inspiration, following progress with great interest

A bit late to ask but is it safe to cut out the back section of the inner fender panel http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Jnaendcor9c/TvvjbSQwnxI/AAAAAAAAAdM/epuZnR5V6aY/s640/IMG_0500.JPG (Latest entry in my Blog)? Or will it result in catastropic warping and bending of the body -please say no!!

Also is the Walloth and Nesch repair panel the same thickness as the origional panel?

Thanks for that Guys, that is an awesome project thread and answers all my questions - crazy thing is i'm subscribed to it but just didn't go far enough back!

The area that is badly rusted on mine is under the fender support panel (which has completely disintegrated!), the hinge area is fine and doors fit nicely, so i will probably fabricate a patch for the rust affected area only.

Hi guys, the teardown continues - Its a little hard to see in the picture http://www.wallothnesch.com/d/pg/g58.jpg but will this panel replace the rusted part of my car http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ll_LQXf2jPs/T ... G_0485.JPG ?

It looks to me that it doesnt include the area close to the hinges which is the most badly rusted part on my car, although on the fantastic 2002tii.org the repair panel looks different http://www.2002tii-restoration.org/images/left_column_05.jpg

Has anyone had personal experience of fitting these, or am i better off buying the complete A column panel with hinges?

Cheers Guys - The reason i thought the frame may be bent is that when you close the hood the first point of contact is when the U shaped bracket in the middle of the frame with the rubber pad on it hits the base of the plenum and the hood is still about 15-20mm high. Hope that makes sense! I will try to add some more photos to the Blog to show the problem

Spent a few hours trying to get my hood to fit ( I used a great FAQ on hood fitting on this site). Unfortunatly it still doesnt sit down at the back correctly. I think the frame at the back may be bent (Photos on my Blog http://2002bmwinnz.blogspot.com/ dated Dec 11) Any opinions on if it is bent or other possible cures?

Thanks for the tip, ill look out for E21s as well although not many of them in NZ either! Would be nice to keep it BMW but may have to widen my search

On mine this has been patched and then repatched badly. I guess the ideal solution is a replacement floorpan $350US plus freight to NZ -Ouch! Not many donor cars down here either. Apologies to the purists but i was thinking of cutting the well out of another make of car and graft it in - has anyone done this? Thoughts or other solutions gratefully recieved!

Thanks for the invite, cant make it this weekend but i checked out your youtube clips - looks like alot of fun.

Ill check out AutoHaus, the other names that come up are Walloth and Nesch and Jaymic(UK), any experience of these 2? Also do you have any trouble with NZ customs shipping in parts?

Apart from BMW are there any other sources of 2002 parts (new or second hand) in New Zealand? Any other Kiwis found suppliers down under? Or am i better off shipping in from the US or Europe. At this stage im not after anything particular, just seeing what my options are

Thanks for the replies guys. Mike i think youve solved it, i searched again and came up with this http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,362263/highlight,diagnostic+plug/ . Looks like Origional Equipment! Unfortunately the ends been hacked off and the rest of the diagnostic stuff has gone. It ties in with the rest of the car though, all looks very origional, just neglected

Hi, my names Chris, im from Auckland New Zealand and ive just bought a 1972 2002 in Verona, its VIN is 1657991.

This is my 1st BMW and 1st i plan to get her structurally sound but not cosmetically beautifull! I started a blog for fun http://2002bmwinnz.blogspot.com/

My first question (of many!) is from the coil there are 2 ht leads coming out from it, one goes to the distributor, the other has just been cut off and goes nowhere? Is this 2nd lead supposed to go somewhere - link - https://picasaweb.google.com/105528953083937093443/November222011#5677687025588086946