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Alternator mounted, added washer behind circlip which I had previously omitted.

Manifold mounted with Webers on, this allowed me to adjust Thackeray washers on soft mounts with better access and to adjust throttle stop and balance bar to align throttle plates to cover first progression hole using a flashlight, both much easier on the bench.

 This was the second time I mounted the manifold, first time I found out it was impossible to get any type of socket or wrench in the bottom two studs above the starter motor and had to abandon the attempt!

Solution was 11mm nuts and use of carbide burr to make a small relief, approx 1mm in the manifold on the bottom studs to allow a slim ring spanner to fit. All went well and was able to torque up.

Will leave overnight, check torque tomorrow then add hoses, water and check for leaks.

Particularly if you drive on the correct side of the road??. (RHD parts). Highly recommend, have helped me out in NZ numerous times?

Installed urethane bushings to 80amp E30 alternator, bought on EBay from Ricochet polyurethane technologies, really happy with the fit, went on with the pictured tools (hammer not required!), nice tight fit but circlips went on without a problem.

A few more goodies arrived, Bavaria pump test fitted and checked operation.

Webers arrived from England, jetted to my specs

32mm primary Venturi
4.50 aux Venturi
130 main jet
180 air corrector
F16 emulsion tube
50 F8 idle jet
0.35 acc pump jet
0.55 acc bleed back valve

1.75 needle valve

Never had DCOEs before so specs are based on lots of reading, intended use and my driving style so time will tell how close I got!

Strip down continued, dipstick and alternator removed

Alternator ( 80amp E30 ) top bushing was mush, lower bushing not too bad , will replace both with urethane.

made up a dummy head! Has made mounting linkage and synchronising carbs much easier on my back?.

Apologies if already posted but just been watching this on YouTube and had to share

https://youtube.com/watch?v=-UbT38Mxwlo&feature=share

Enjoy

7 years later and not much to report! What I have donefixed the non functional tacho using the output from the megasquirt and using a relay coil following this diagram, I had previously used the diode solution with limited success, this method worked perfectly and has been going for a few months now. Definitely cut off the points from the relay as they are not needed and make a horrible noise!

Removed twin servos and ran new cunifer brake lines

New rotors, pads and rear wheel cylinders. Braking is now much improved and really not much additional foot pressure required, won’t be going back to a servo setup.

Added a pair of spotlights that came with the boxes of parts, there were holes in the bumpers already so why not?. Wired to a relay the come on with the high beams, really help with night driving, especially as my headlights badly need resilvering/replacing.

Replaced centre bearing, old one was torn up, let’s see how long this lasts.

Had a change of plan last year and decided to go with a twin Weber setup instead of the E30 fi in the original plans. Just wanted to keep it old school mechanical and tbh they just look right. Won’t be removing the megasquirt just using it to control the edis  ignition which has been awesome. 

Went for a Mangoletsi manifold and cable linkage, also a filter king fuel pressure regulator. 40 DCOEs are ordered and on a ship somewhere!

Made bracket and mounted Malpassi

Bought a catch can on Ali express, it’s for a N54 but I liked the large inlet and outlet same size as the rocker cover breather. Currently it’s outlet runs to the gearbox tunnel to atmosphere, so will try that setup while waiting for the webers to arrive.

I must also thank all contributors to the FAQ, this site is the most valuable source of opinions on 2002s by a country mile, there is a wealth of knowledge here to be mined by keen amateurs like me!

Mounted a Filter King, first step in preparation for the Twin 40 DCOEs coming in a couple of months.

20mm on a 1974 RHD in NZ, we still have bad roads but I put spacers above the fenders anyway!

Thought I’d share this photo of a successful method of removing the nut as hopefully a picture is worth a thousand words!

Hi, didn’t realise you were in NZ! No problems with the WOF, didn’t go to VTNZ though?. Springs are Jaymic

Replaced with foot power! More foot pressure needed on the pedal but not uncomfortably so. I did treat myself to new rotors and semi metallic pads on the Volvo BBK. Replaced and simplified lines with cunifer retaining dual brake system. Sorry not so many photos of new layout.

Hope these are of some help to you, those servos are a pita, I recently ditched them.

Pedal feel is firmer without servos, but not excessively so, there is an option to drill a new hole in brake pedal to increase leverage to MC pushrod but I haven’t felt the need to do that.

Theres a couple of write ups on the UK forum on deleting servos, plenty of options on how to but I decided to replace old lines with cunifer and simplify routing but retain dual circuits.

Can’t help with how to test but had similar issues with my braking (RHD), no external leaks, rear drums adjusted correctly, bled 3 times, not running servos so couldn’t be that, process of elimination pointed at MC. Sure enough a resleeve and new seals fixed the problem, i was told internal leaking of fluid was the problem.

Replaced my master cylinder for that reason, no visible leaks, no loss of fluid but at random times pedal would nearly go to the floor, multiple bleedings didn’t help but reconditioned MC worked.

Had a similar problem, the solution was 2 o rings! Thread here 

Engine still going strong?

I took it to a steering and suspension ‘ specialist ‘ and they managed to squash the bearing oil seal housing out of shape?. Left it alone and used 140weight and no leaks but still pissed me off so beware!

I made up a metal bracket and attached it using the existing rivet holes, crude but effective it's still holding up after a couple of years. Hope the link works, its the second post in my project blog

Bugger - thought it was too good to be true! Thank you Henning for the run down of work required, unfortunately beyond my meagre skills. Back on the lookout for a M10 245!

I was hoping it would just be a case of swapping the front housings over, removal of which seems fairly straight forward looking at the workshop manual, and not have to take apart any of the gear sets ect which are in the intermediate/rear housing. I am starting to suspect it may not be so straight forward!

Toby - although not original atm my 2002 is matching frame and engine numbers , so i want to retain the option down the line of taking it back to factory spec. Im starting to think there may be more to this gearbox mix and match than i originally thought, if it was a fairly simple bolt on exercise I'm sure there would be more threads about it? Has anyone done this conversion?

After looking unsuccessfully for a 245 with a M10 front case i have the opportunity to buy a 245 with an M20 front case. I think after reading the FAQ it seems that i can swap the front case of my 242 4 speed with the M20 front section to give me a 5 speed with a M10 bell? My questions are

Is the conversion possible and if so how hard is it to do, ie are special tools required?

BTW i'm in NZ where there are comparitively more 5 speed M20 E21s around than M10 versions.

Looked more closely and I think that's exactly what I have. Could be useful to retain 13inch steels and have vented rotors?

Thanks guys - atm 2002 with spacer looks to be the most likely, is it even doable though? There seems to be a metal band where the spacer would go.

I have volvo calipers on atm and those pads are definately larger, the pads on the mystery caliper are standard 2002 size. TBH im not planning on using these calipers but would hate to throw them out when they could be of use to somebody.

Did a search but no luck, the caliper on the right is from my 71 2002 and the caliper on the left is from a box of parts i acquired. Bolt spacing and bleed nipple placement seem identical the only difference i can see is the gap between the caliper halves.Only ID is the ATE logo. Can anyone shed light what the mystery caliper was fitted to?