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Webers are running well, will put a few more miles on the clock before I do any more tweaks. Over winter/spring I tidied up the interior and added some goodies

worn and faded moulded carpet removed

vacuumed, water blasted and hung out to dry

seats cleaned, headrests showing before and after (seats from a Honda Integra)

seats sprayed black with carpet aerosol and black mats added to cover wear hole on drivers side! No photos but sound proofing (not dynamat but similar) added under carpet/ rear seats

I had no plans to do any more to the interior but then I came across this

A retro gauge pod that looked like it would fit on the shelf of the dash, enabling me to move the afr gauge from under the dash where I had to take my eyes off the road to monitor it to a more convenient spot, of course I needed two more gauges so second hand  VDO oil pressure and water temp gauges and appropriate senders were found and wired up.

while the console was out I decided to add the Becker Monte Carlo radio I have had in a box for the last ten years, totally non functioning purely there for the looks!

Very happy with the result, all budget upgrades, carpet, VDO gauges, senders and radio all done for less than $300NZ. Now to get out and enjoy the NZ summer.

I bought the 108mm VW pushrod as suggested in this post, it was a little tight in the bore of the head but a few minutes putting it in a drill and some wet and dry paper to reduce the diameter slightly as noted in the original post and it has been fine since fitting. Much cheaper than the BMW part. BTW I am also using a Pierburg ‘Bavaria’ pump to suit my Weber twin 40s.

Lechler ( or any) 2 part epoxy primer worked for me, dried to a satin black and has held up well, it’s supposed to degrade with exposure to UV but it’s under the car so not a problem 

Welcome. Great website, used it many times along with others for reference when choosing my DCOE setup, thank you.👍

Brake Pipe Flaring Tool Professional In-situ 4.75mm DIN Hand Held FL27 - AB Tools Online

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Playing devils advocate I bought this tool a couple of years ago when I did the twin servo delete on my RHD car. I used cunifer lines and it did a good job, there were no leaks initially and after 2 years still fine.

18degrees is distributor/ camshaft degrees, double rpm and advance for crankshaft ie 36degrees max advance with a timing light.

I had a similar problem, in my case it turned out to be the progression holes had been drilled further back on I carb ( both new 151s) pictures on the last post on my blog. Might be worth a check?

Here’s how I managed it, holding down the prop shaft with the weight of a car using angle iron and a pipe wrench, a 24mm ring spanner (wrench!) with some leverage and a tyre iron wedged in there to stop the wrench slipping off, penetrating fluid and heat. It was a mission but do-able, good luck

Check position of throttle plate at idle in relation to the first progression hole. This manual may help https://www.lainefamily.com/images/WeberTuningManual.pdf.

I have no personal experience of 45dcoes but there is a thread discussion here  

3 hours ago, jp5Touring said:

That's good to know, thanks.  I liked the setup that was on a BaT  02 last week .

He had the Kooglewerks DCOE elbows and ITG filter but it's a bit pricey at almost $600. for an air filter set up.

My Ram Air foam filters air getting tired and they  tend to drop down the elbow and cut off the air flow.

ITG looks to be one of the better filters will have to check my options.

I could be okay with just a blank ITG backing plate also. 

Check distance/spacing between carbs, will vary with make of manifold. There wasn’t a ready made backplate for my Mangoletsi manifold so had to buy a blank one.

Not a M10 but an interesting you tube clip 

thoughts? ( apart from the geezer sounding like Michael Caine😄)

Emissions control bracket looks like a good place to mount the filter king without having to make holes in the firewall?

As original post question, just interested what difference the smaller ‘plenum’ of the f12 idle jet makes before I purchase to replace soldered up experimental jets.

Lean hole is not there with my current settings but out of interest  I will fatten up the idle a bit and see what happens.

I would ideally like the throttle plate to sit over the first progression hole as the Weber manual suggests but gives me a too high idle even after playing with the ignition advance at idle.

This is the throttle plate position at idle of around 950rpm

Thanks for the replies

Hans - Spanish Webers, the last post in my blog details the issues I had with them, now resolved.

Toby - yes I think I might extricate myself from the rabbit hole, buy some 55f12s and suck it and see. Did not touch progression holes just normal adjustment of throttle plates using idle/balance screws.

21/2 turns out gave me a good idle around 13AFR which is why I stopped drilling out the fuel jet and attacked the air! (Throttle plate was 1/2 covering the 1st progression hole  which gave me an idle around 950rpm.) 

I’ve been chasing down my off idle lean, started with a 50f8 which gave me a massive off idle lean hole (17 to 20 AFRs), bought some 50f9 which made a small difference, rather than spending $$$ on idle jets I experimented using solder and drills, drilling out fuel orifice of the 50f8  to .55 again helped but only by a small amount. I then decided to attack the air orifice, soldered it up and drilled to f6 size (0.70mm) AFRs dropped to 11-12. I then gradually enlarged air orifice size gradually and now with the holes at 0.90mm I’m happily with the AFRs in the 13s.

Now to my question! The f12 jet has a air orifice of 0.90 but as shown on this chart the diameter of A is 1.5mm and the F8 I have been modifying has a diameter of 2mm, will this difference in ‘plenum’ size make any difference, I assume it is done for a reason but can anyone shed some light on why?

The plan is to buy some 55f12 jets as I don’t like the idea of roughly soldered and drilled jets staying in there too long!

Another Kiwi 2002 back on the road👍. Looks and sounds amazing, puts mine to shame☺️ Congratulations on a great job.

Have you checked progression holes of each carb are drilled in the same place? I bought a pair of Spanish Weber 151’s and they were not a matched pair, made good synchronising impossible.

2 hours ago, mofares said:

Added ITG filter to 40 DCOE's. Well worth the price. 

Looks good, did the tabs holding the bell mouths in still work with the backplate on? I’ve got a similar setup and thought this might be a problem or am I just suffering from paralysis by analysis?😄

Final piece of the Weber upgrade puzzle, fitted Pipercross filter, RHD with no servos leaves plenty of room for a big filter. Now for the tuning tweaks!

4 months on and we are getting somewhere, had a few issues getting a decent set of Spanish Webers but thanks to the guys at Palmside (Christchurch NZ) we are nearly there!

To condense 3 months of head scratching fitted carbs after checking float height, could not get motor to idle, spitting back, , running on 2 cylinders, could not get carbs synchronised, checked for air leaks, compression, valve clearances, all checked out ok. Bought Misab plates as I didn’t like the spacer and 2 O ring type supplied with the Mangoletsi manifold, bought new non resistor plugs, then resistor plugs when I read that edis likes resistor plugs, swapped EDIS coils and module, finally swapped over carbs and misfiring cylinders moved from 1/2 to 3/4, removed carbs stripped down and noticed this-

See the undrilled opening into the starter circuit, on reflection this was probably not the issue but it was definitely not right and carb was returned to Palmside and a replacement supplied.

Replacement carb was fitted, and voila- still not able to get carbs balanced😡. This time I looked at the carbs first and found a problem with the progression hole drillings

One carb needed 1/4 turn of the throttle plate screw to cover the first progression hole, the other needed 1/2 a turn, these carbs would never synch correctly, 1 carbs holes were drilled approx 1mm further away from the throttle spindle than the other.

This time I sent both carbs back with a request to get a pair from the same batch with progression holes drilled in the same place, a good set came back and were filled and synced without issue.

Moral of the story is if you decide to go for new Spanish Webers make sure you buy from a reputable dealer who will help you sort out the issues!

Next chapter, dealing with that off idle lean hole😄 to be continued…….

4 hours ago, Son of Marty said:

It's not so much that hole, in modern manufacturing it's rare to do just one machining process at a time so if they missed that step who knows what else didn't get done.

Good point, have contacted vendor and awaiting response?. Yea not impressed with the casting quality, Hobsons choice these days with Webers, either worn out 30+ year old Italian that need a total refurb or rough Spanish castings?. At least being new I can return them until I get a good one.

Agree about returning it to the vendor, however I can’t work out if this missed drilling through to the starter valve would affect the idle circuit at all when the starter circuit isn’t even being used, logic says no but I don’t know enough about the inner workings to definitively say it won’t and hoped a Weber whisperer may shed some light?

And no it’s not knockoff, came from Eurocarb in the UK and passes all the tell tale genuine Weber tests.

Trying to correct the poor idling on the 40 dcoe Webers I am fitting , I had checked the usual suspects (compression 140psi all cylinders, new NGK BP5ES plugs, good spark, 2.5psi Fuel pressure, float level correct, checked for vacuum leaks with ether, runs on all 4 above approx 2000) but eventually decided to partly dismantle and I noticed that there is a missing drilling in the starter circuit (see attachments) Notice in the first photo there is a missing drilling at the top of the starter valve bore. I won’t be using the starter circuit at all, however I’m not sure if this may be my rough idle as the problem is on the carb that has the non drilled hole and not having it there may be affecting the idle circuit somehow. And yes they are brand new Spanish Webers ??