pilotnbr1

Thanks for the replies! Even though some of you say the gauge position is normal today while in stop and go traffic with the outside air temp being in the 80s it really started to approach the red being above the 2 o'clock position.

To answer other questions- Temp sensor for the gauge is new. Temp gauge does not jump or move in time with the blinkers. I have no reason to believe the temp gauge is inaccurate.

Fan switch on the radiator top hose would cause the fan to run constantly and defeat the purpose of the switch. I cant help but thinking the airflow is insufficient because the car runs so much cooler when moving...I am racking my brain for ideas--

Maybe the engine itself is generating more heat than normal-

a)timing? it is set at 8 degrees at a 1000 rpm idle

b)could hot plugs do it? I run plugs in the 7 heat range

c)engine friction? has only about 500 miles on fresh oil

d)engine too lean?

Inability of the coolant to move through system-

a)thermostat? its new and tested

b)waterpump? its new...maybe the belt is slipping at idle?

c)blockages or deposits? when changing the pump the passages I could see were totally clear and extremely clean

d)headgasket problem? very trace oil in coolant, no white smoke, compression is even across

Inability of the new high density radiator to cool the coolant at idle-

a)fin pattern on radiator too tight and restrictive for air?

b)fan not moving adequate air?

c)fan is blowing air wrong way? confirmed blowing front to back

d)fan not coming on or coming on late? it comes on just over half on the temp gauge

Any other ideas?

I am going to double check timing.. The dizzy appears to be older but the timing mark is rock solid when shooting it. I might try and see if the springs are getting worn. If the springs are overly worn though I would imagine the timing would just advance too early. I understand that it is overly retarded timing that causes the engine to run hot.

Check to see if the belt is slipping at idle.

Check the mixture at idle.

Heres a picture of where it settles out at stops. Once I get going it cools right off. Is that normal? It seems a little high, but if everyones car does that I will stop whining

Well put new thermostat in after I tested it. I bleed the system by running the car at idle, radiator cap off, heat on full, and on a steep hill nose up. Massaged the lower hose a few times after it was hot and then put the cap on and went for a drive. It is still getting hot when not moving. While moving the temp gauge stay at about the 4 o'clock position. When I come to a stop it rises up a little over half and then the fan kicks on. With the fan running it settles at about the 2 o'clock position.

I'm wondering if the fan is coming on too late- but even when it does it is not able to bring the temp back down it just stops it from rising....Ideas?

I am going to check timing...

Radiator got burped with the cap off, heat on full blast, and car jacked up. Actually heard it burp- was kind of funny!

I got forced down the electric fan route because I bought the car without a stock fan. In fact all it had was an old electric fan attached without any wiring to turn it on. But I will report back once the thermostat is changed.

I have the original radiator but it was recorded with a high density core last month.

Anyone install the Ireland electric fan kit? I did 3 months ago and the fan does not seem to be able to keep the car cool while at a stop.
Once I get moving the car cools back down to about the 4 o'clock position on the temp gauge.

I have new hoses, new water pump, new belt, new temp sensor for the temp gauge, and a new 3 core radiator. Car is a little rich at idle and the timing is 8 degrees at 1000 rpm idle. The ireland fan kit has its thermostat installed on the bottom hose out of the radiator (I know this has been hashed out here a few times) and YES the fan blows air through the radiator from front to back. And YES I have confirmed it does kick on when it should. My only other variable is the the water thermostat for the coolant itself- I have a new one on the way.

Just curious what others experience is with the fan kit. I am wondering if the fan just doesn't move enough air. I went to the Ireland site and it appears the kit ships with their 12 inch fan which moves 1250 cfm at 6.7 amp draw. I see they have a 14 inch fan available which moves 2000 cfm at 11 amp draw...

My 74 tii has been getting a little warm in stop and go traffic with the temp gauge peaking at about 2/3 on the hot side. Air temperatures are about 75F here in Georgia at the warmest when I have been driving. Once I start moving again the temperature comes down and settles at just below the 1/2 way point even on the freeway. I am just curious if this is normal behavior for a 74 tii.

I have a freshly recored original radiator with 3 cores

Electric Ireland fan setup- confirmed working, it kicks on at about the 1/2 point on the temp gauge

New hoses, freshly rebuilt waterpump, new sensor for the temp gauge

Topped off and burped BMW coolant

Timing might be too retarded... Just swapped in a stock dizzy

The coolant thermostat is older... I think it's an 80c.. Thinking about swapping it out too with a tested spare I have. I was curious if maybe I am being paranoid and this is normal behavior for the car.

Thanks for the responses!

Luke

If you ultimately intend to own and work on a new bmw get a code reader that can read bmw factory codes. The code reader by Peake Research is a popular one and it will come in handy down the road especially on a car with those miles. The car you are interested in could be throwing codes that will not trigger a dash light. Other generic OBDII code readers most likely will not catch bmw factory codes but if you don't want to spend $175 on the Peake tool and have a smart phone order an elm327 OBDII usb or bluetooth (depending on your phone or laptop) reader for $15. The elm327 reader will very cheaply allow you to read generic OBDII codes.

Common thing to go after 100k are the

02 sensors

DISA valve

Idle Control Valve- may just be dirty

Crankcase Vent Valve and oil seperator with associated hoses

Intake and Exhaust Cam sensors

Check to see if rubber has been replaced on that engine. Its a hot engine compartment with lots of places cracked rubber can create hard to find vacuum leaks. Ask me how I know.....

THE BIG THING-- Check for any distortion,cracks , or even tears of the trunk floor above the rear diff mounts. Those cars have a well documented weakness where the rear subframe supports the diff. BMW admitted it after some time and many cars were repaired or retrofitted at BMW's expense however now it is not covered... One giveaway that this is a problem is a thud or thump from the rear diff when it is put under load, but that could also just be worn rear diff mounts or worn guibo as well.

Educate yourself on what to look for at e46fanatics.com . If you do decide to post there I would take some of the replies with a grain of salt... That crowd tends to be made of of alot of "plug n play" types of mechanics who will readily respond. There are a few though that really wrench on their cars and have written excellent diy posts.

Good luck- they are great cars

You probably figured it out by now but heres a link to a write up that may help..

http://www.my2002tii.com/spring_2005/sunroof.htm

I have noticed that turning the steering wheel left there is a significant "notch" feeling after a turn and a half of the wheel. I have not done anything to the car's steering and suspension other than change the oil in the steering box with hyphoid gear oil. From what I understand the notch in the feel of the steering box is a sure sign that the steering box is dead. I have already bought a good used box, which should be arriving in the next few days.

My question is whether I need to separate the joint on the pitman arm? Can I just undo the pitman arm from the steering box while leaving the joint attached to the center rod. This is all with the subframe on the car. I would rather not drop the subframe at this time.

Any advice or pertinent info regarding this swap is very welcome. I have no experience with steering boxes and adjusting.

All good questions regarding the seat. Right now I am out of the country but will be back Saturday to completely answer your questions. The only one I can answer right now is that the seat is blue.

Luke

Pulled from working car. Shaft has about 2mm vertical play. No horizontal play. Mechanical advance only. Changed out because I wanted the stock dizzy for my 74tii with the vacuum retard. Was working fine before though. Does not include rotor or condensor. Cap has chip on end and might not be correct. $100 shipped

EMAIL AT pilotnbr1@hotmail.com

Faq messages aren't working for me

I live in Atlanta GA and take paypal only.

IF INTERESTED EMAIL ME at pilotnbr1@hotmail.com

faq messages have not been reaching me....

If the seat is shipped I will send via greyhound to keep shipping costs reasonable. If you want a quote to ship the seat go to ---http://www.shipgreyhound.com/ play with the numbers and see what you get as far as a shipping cost for the seat. I would say it weighs about 40 lbs.

-A pretty decent passenger side early stock seat (padding is getting thin, but no rips or tears and all hardware seems to work) $80 SHIPPING SEPERATE

-Cylinder 2,3,4 high pressure fuel injection lines (Were pulled from a working 74 tii. No known leaks or blockages) $15 a piece or $40 for all 3 SHIPPED

-Unknown steering wheel says made in Italy on back... Comes with horn button not pictured. I may have an adapter as well but currently this is WITHOUT adapter.(pulled from my 74tii, horn worked, leather is in poor shape and is cracked at joints) $50 SHIPPED

The recaro in the picture below already sold-- sorry

I need a steering box with no notchiness and some adjustment left. I live in Atlanta GA and can paypal. I can be emailed directly at

pilotnbr1@hotmail.com

Thanks alot.

Luke

Running some GE sealed halogen headlights that I got online NEW for about $10 each. Cheap and work great!

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?catalog=409&partnum=H6024&a=FR409-H6024-319749

It fluctuates 21 to 19 and valves are adjusted .007 cold.. Thats with me hooked up to the intake manifold at a port normally blocked since my 74 tii is "desmogged"

Has anyone much experience using a vacuum gauge to diagnose problems? I never realized how useful it was. I used a mityvac to try to set my mixture at idle. Very easy and seemed like an accurate method.

Here is an interesting link on how to use a mityvac to diagnose problems--

http://www.mityvac.com/user_manuals/07000-06820.pdf

Page 9 specifically...

It seems I have some worn valve guides as at idle my vacuum jumps around about 2 inches....

EMAIL ME at pilotnbr1@hotmail.com ... FAQ is not sending forwarding messages.. Thanks!

Luke

If it does not say "SOLD" at the top then it is available. I was thinking $25 shipped for the adapter?

Seats are available.. Was thinking $80 for the passenger stock blue seat and $30 for the recaro. Thats withouth shipping from Atlanta GA. Would ship via Greyhound to cut costs for you, if thats how you would like them sent. Sorry for the late response, I am not getting emails from FAQ that there have been replies to this thread.

Sorry eurotrash but I am not getting my emails sent via faq... I tried to send you an email just now via faq. You can email me directly at pilotnbr1@hotmail.com . Just make me an offer!

Luke

Baboon are you still interested in the steering wheel? if so do does $40 shipped sound good? Thanks

Luke

Baboon are you still interested in the steering wheel? if so do does $40 shipped sound good? Thanks

Luke

Thanks for the responses. Anyone here do a sunroof delete? Is it easier to put a whole new roof on or weld a patch in? I would imagine the roof replace would be easier if one could be found locally and for the right price...Too really big ifs..

I am planning on painting the car this year as I am running out of mechanical issues and can now focus more on the cosmetic. Before paint I would like to resolve the sunroof issue.

What do you all think a sunroof does to a cars value? I am sure everyone has their own opinion... Obviously wrong sunroof like mine hurts, but does no sunroof equal higher value vs factory sunroof?

Luke