pilotnbr1

Found an unopened pack of firecrackers under some carpet. They still lit off too!

Amazing write up!

Thanks for all the input and great advice! This job is already going to be a challenge I don't need to further complicate it with an entire A-post swap out if I don't need to.. So I just ordered the patch panel as the rust is very limited. Thanks again!

I am finally about to start the body work on my car. I am putting together a large order from Walloth and Nesch and would like to get everything in one shot.

Without having the fender off the car I am debating on whether to order just their A-post repair panel vs just getting the entire A-post with the hinges. From my preliminary inspection I think I can get away with just the repair panels but is it significantly more work just to swap in an entirely fresh A post? 

Since you already have somewhat of a shaft in the bolt (female hex head bolt right?) you could try using a bolt extractor. It might bite enough that it will turn.

I would be hesitant to drill as you could introduce metal shavings to the inside of diff- but knowing the length of the bolt you could just put some tape on your drill bits as a marker for drilling depth. You can also get some reverse direction bits and cutting oil at Harbor Freight for very little.... Sometimes the reverse bit will bite and back the bolt out. Just step up in bit size to where you can properly feed in your bolt extractor.

I would not go by distributor position and a mark on the FRONT pulley to gauge timing. You really need to look at the back of the engine down into the slot where the timing mark is visible on the flywheel. In my opinion that is the more accurate ways to find TDC. 

Once you find TDC off the flywheel then cross reference the mark on the cam to see if you are off...

How is your mixture at idle? I set mine for peak vacuum at idle, hot engine, and holding 900 rpms... I too have a little rough running after a cold start until I blip the gas to clear it out- after that it goes through warm-up and idles very smoothly. I wouldn't mind an emissions tester to check co2 though...

I too have the same issue with my tii... Cold it takes alot of cranking- warm/hot it fires up instantly. 

I checked my cold start injector as well for opening, spray, duration, and closing. Everything seemed normal there.

At one point I cleaned all of my starter connections which marginally helped by giving me a slightly faster crank.

Do you have a stock electric fuel pump? Mine is a newer Bosch (Yes, it too was tested for proper pressure and volume) . I am not sure my new electric fuel pump has the check valve that the OE pump had. My theory is that after the car sits,  the fuel in all of the lines slowly drains lower towards the tank. I need to test that by clamping the line after shutdown.... 

I also have an OE distributor which on the 74tii has vacuum retard for easier starts. I wonder if when the car is cold (not sealed as well with heat expansion and oil) I am not pulling good enough vacuum to retard the timing and thus create an easier start. Once again I need to test this with a vacuum gauge instead of guessing... But like your car, mine always starts in the end so my motivation is low...

In my opinion the easiest fix might be a new more powerful starter... I did notice the biggest improvement when I cleaned the starter connections. When the car has just been driven the battery has a fresh charge which might also explain some of the warm/hot improvement we both experience. 

You have a unique opportunity to teach your wife to double clutch from day one...

I would also also impress on her the need to defensively drive an 02 and keep a close eye on tailgaters and those that might not see our little brake lights.. 

Replace the ring. Also follow a "star" pattern when tightening the bolts that hold the cover in place. This ensure even pressure across the seal.

Even a ring that looks fairly fresh may have some compression more or less in places which allows it to leak.... 

I would like to get in on the next run if possible.. 

Message sent for heater core!

Email Sent!

I will take one! I can be emailed at pilotnbr1@hotmail.com- just give me a paypal address and the money will be sent. Thanks!

Luke

You said your leakdown numbers were pretty bad. Is it possible air is leaking into the cylinders causing a lean condition? Is that even possible?

So back in march my tii water pump started leaking from the weep hole. I ended up having the pump rebuilt through RockAuto who outsourced the work to A1 Cardone. Now after only several hundred miles the pump is weeping again. The belt is tensioned to about a 1/2 inch deflection between pulleys and I am running an electric radiator fan. Supposedly the pump has a 3 year 36,000 mile warranty which I am pursuing. However, I have no reason to believe I won't be going through this again in a few hundred miles.

Suggestions? Is buying a new oe pump going to solve this one? Should I back off the belt tension to the point of squeelling? Right now tii pumps seem to be going for just over $200 from all the sources I have looked at- Anyone have a better priced source?

I think plan "a" is to order an oe pump and also use the warranty on the rebuilt pump and keep it as a spare...

Any updates? It sounds like you were starting to see some positive results!

The only downside of redline MTL is that if you have a leaky box expect it to leak even more with the redline.....

Please update when you get to the bottom of this. I am really currious as I have had similar problems.

Get rid of the KNN also... The stock air cleaner provides resonance qualities that a KNN cannot replicate. In essence the stock air cleaner is able to pulse the flow of air into the intake thereby providing a little extra power that you will lose with the KNN. That is why the cleaner is so large and oddly shaped- those engineers thought of everything!

Email sent!

Misc change, lots of camel cigarette coupons, 80s cassette, and pack of firecrackers that still worked...

What would shipping be for just the two front door panels to 30080? Thanks!

Luke

Perhaps the intermediate shaft is out of round at the clamp and it is shifting... Intermediate shafts are cheap- $30. Get one before its nla and scratch one possible problem from your list. Dont forget the socket bushing it sits on.

I'm in for a number 1.... That didnt sound right

In the cut thumb pictures, what is the curly cue piece of metal? I assume it was responsible for the accident.