pilotnbr1

As CD said it was a last resort... I checked and rechecked alot of things before I turned the screw. But as long as you document where it was you can always go back to factory settings. I don't have an exhaust gas analyzer so I am taking my car to someone that knows tiis and has the right equipment.

Below is a picture of the top of the screw shot from the right side of the car looking just past the number 1 intake runner. The car was cold so the arm with the set screw was at full extension. I loosened a coolant hose and the fuel return hose to get better access. the stop nut is 10mm and the screw itself was 3mm hex (some pumps is a slot). Its tight quarters with the intake runner... I turned mine 45 degrees clockwise for richer mixture. It smoothed out my 3000 rpm flat spot and I am watching my plugs closely. So far so good but as I said I am going to get some pro help to be sure.

Before all this I adjusted valves .007 cold, changed oil, compression check

Fuel:

tore down and cleaned injectors, replaced many fuel lines, new fuel filter, resealed fuel tank, replaced fuel expansion tank, new electric fuel pump, kf pump rebuilt, checked fuel psi and volume, checked cold start injector (replaced parts to that system too), rebuilt linkages, replaced intermediate shaft, several new springs, reset pump tuna can and warm up system

Air:

removed knn air filter and refitted a rebuilt stock air cleaner, cleaned throttle body, uncapped and reconnected small vacuum line t-ing into breather hose (its a 74), checked for vacuum leaks (especially around warm up transmitter when engine is hot),

Spark:

refit correct dizzy, new plugs, new wires, new cap, new rotor, new points, new condenser, refit correct black coil, checked resistor wire, mapped my timing across rpm range to see if dizzy needed a rebuild- seems fine

I could not have done much with out this great forum and its members.

As was suggested by some members in another thread I turned the set screw on my KF pump 1/4 turn clockwise.

I have had a bit of a buck or hesitation at about 3000 rpm while cruising. While accelerating through the 3000 rpm range there is no problem. I tried and tested many different possibilities without much success. I then noticed that in hot weather (and driving one day at 105 degrees in Atlanta) that the bucking was almost gone. I think the heat was enrichening the mixture at a given rpm and seemed to confirm to me that I have a mixture problem. So I marked the screw and took lots of pictures. Went to release the 10mm nut and the whole stop turned with virtually no resistance. The nut and set screw had been lock tighted together but there was no resistance between the lock nut and the base it sits on. Perhaps my stop screw has been wandering since the pump was rebuilt and calibrated 10 months ago. So check your verboten screws and make sure they are secure!

The car seems much happier now but I am going to take it in to a local tii expert who has an exhaust gas analyzer...

As was said before go into the tii register and get the manual on pdf. Sounds like you need to adjust your idle mixture- go into the "tuna can" on top of the throttle body. The set screw protruding through the side of the tuna can will set idle speed. The other much smaller set screw inside the tuna can will set the mixture. Keep in mind that the automatic enrichment system for cold start will allow more fuel and air into the engine until the coolant comes up to temp. Set your idle mixture when the car is hot.

Your entire mixture range may be off too... Read the manual and give it a tune up. Give it new plugs, rotor, cap, points, and ignition wires. Adjust valves, readjust fuel system per the manual, and retime it. Good to go!

Nice car! The new wheels and tires make it look much more sporty.

(nt)

I did the IE kit. In the end I swapped out the 12 inch fan in the kit for a 14 incher. The 12 couldn't keep up on my car but now the 14 actually pulls the temp back down to the middle of the gauge when it kicks on at stops. I do alot of stop and go city driving in Atlanta in 90 degree weather sometimes. 90 is my personal limit though

The 14 is a tight fit in my tii though.

Checkout this thread- it may help answer some questions-

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/t,372869/highlight,/

I did not want to pay for an oe water pump and ended up trying several different sources to find a pump. One place I ordered from ended up not being able to deliver a tii pump then rockauto sent me a non tii pump. I ended up just having my broken pump rebuilt through rockauto for about $35. It took about 3 weeks but the pump is working great.

You can also try-

blunttech.com

autohausaz.com

jaymic.com

2002ad.com

pelicanparts.com

Update for anyone following this-

I readjusted my timing to 33 degrees at 3500 rpm which was about 3 degrees more than I initially had. My slight bucking is almost gone but still there. The bucking seems to be more prevalent at about 2500 rpm now but that may be in my imagination. I don't seem to have gained any noticeable power.

My idle had to be readjusted with the timing change. The car wanted to idle at about 1200 and would climb to 1300-1400 occasionally, lean out, and fall back to about 1200. The idle set screw was dialed out allowing the eccentric cam to be positioned closer to where it would touch the rod inserted in the tuna can. Of course idle mixture had to be readjusted too.

I am going to reset the clamp on the intermediate shaft again as per the manual. If it still seems like I have a flat spot at around 3000 rpm I am going to readjust the verboten screw. I am thinking tom and everyone else might be right that my mixture needs a bump. It is troubling that I just put gas in the car and only got 12.5 mpg. I went over all of the fuel lines looking for leaks with the car running and came up dry. I may replace my gas cap- it looks pretty put the gasket on it is worn. Anyone experience poor mpg because their gas is evaporating out of the cap? I ordered a new cap several months back and got this tiny cap that was nowhere near the right size... I'll have to try again.

EDIT: the numbers I originally posted for the factory recommended advance might be off. Reviewing the pump guide from the tii register has some slightly different numbers for a 74tii with the 013 dizzy compared to the shop manual I have on cd. The pump guide notes at the end say-

1000rpm 4-9 degrees

1500rpm 10-15

2000rpm 17-22

2500rpm 22-27

3000rpm 26-30

3800rpm 27-31 end

I was right there on the top end of each rpm at 3,15,22,27, and 30 respectively. Now I am probably 2 degrees past at each rpm point.

Thanks again guys!

To answer your question regarding dwell- I don't know. I have a dwell meter but with the CD setup I can't hook it up correctly. I have asked everyone here in the past about the importance of dwell angle in a CD type system and the consensus was that it doesn't matter. The points are just the switch settin g off the CD system. So all I have done to the points is set the correct gap.

It is an older Mark 10 CD system which has the switch on the top to disable/bypass the CD side. If I flip that switch I notice no change in how the car runs. I take that as a good sign that things are setup pretty good.

Thanks for the info guys- I am going to advance it a couple more degrees for a max of 34 and see how that goes. Will report back

I actually have two distributors one is a 002 that came on the car and it had the 013 in the trunk with a bunch of parts. I set the 002 to stock settings and had the same little bit of bucking/hesitation at 3000 rpm. I chalked it up to the wrong distributor for the car and threw the 013 on. Low and behold I still had my bucking problem at 3000.... Maybe they are both worn and it is time for a rebuild on the 013. The curve I recorded does seem to show a couple extra degrees of too much advance early on.

Thanks for all the replies!

To answer questions-

Stock engine. Lower compression 140 across ( i am thinking this is why it likes more advance) but this test was a while back when I first got the car and it hadn't run in 5 years or received any attention like a valve adjustment... I need to retest but other than this slight bucking it runs great!

Timing mark is rock steady. I have shot the ball in the past but am now using my own mark on the crank pulley. The TDC flywheel mark and my crank pulley mark are spot on. Have an 013 dizzy with fresh plugs, wires, cap,points, and rotor. Black coil hooked up to mark 10 CD system.

Valves adjusted .007 cold.

Linkages have all been taken apart measured and put back together. All sockets were replaced on the throttle linkages. Intermediate shaft is new and cup. Throttle body cleaned. New spring to intermediate shaft and in the tuna can.

Cold start system many new components and verified working correctly (also verified warmup regulator is closing and not leaning mixture when at temp and cold start valve is not leaking).

New fuel pump, filter, some lines, expansion tank, high pressure fuel lines from pump to injectors, and resealed tank. KF pump rebuilt by Fairchild. Injectors torn down and cleaned (not bench tested though). Fuel pressure and volume tested good.

Everything was setup as per the pump guide from the tii registry. I only deviated by setting the idle mixture with a vacuum gauge instead of reading co2. I don't own an exhaust gas analyzer or have an AFR gauge... Idle speed adjustment requires throttle to be cracked significantly to maintain 1000 rpm. With more advance in the ignition I can bring the idle speed way way up. It behaves way too retarded, but it is in normal range at 3 degrees with the vacuum line hooked up to the dizzy.

Only other idea i have for bucking would be driveshaft out of alignment, but that doesn't make sense with it always being at 3000 rpm. Would think the bucking would be at a certain speed rather than rpm.

Sorry this has become so long winded. I am very hesitant to deviate from stock settings and just start advancing the ignition beyond stock. Last thing I want to do is ruin an engine.

I agree with you both. I am doubtful of the lean mixture. Plugs look good and if anything seem to be running rich as I am getting about 15 mpg average city driving. Pic of the plugs below. They are 8 heat range

The slight bucking and hesitation while steady throttle at around 3000 rpm goes away the more advance I go. The Mccarteny book suggests setting timing by a series of driving tests under load adjusting ignition to the point of pinging. I am not racing this car and only want to get rid of this annoying bucking (although who doesn't like more power). His book suggests that for every car there is an ideal ignition timing.

Do these engine give you much warning if they ping? Does anyone have experience with the number of degrees they start to detonate-- very subjective question I know.

Looking at the manual for a usa 2002tii it is completely advanced at 3500 rpm and 27 to 32 degrees. I have been setting it at 2700 rpm and 25 degrees with the dizzy vacuum line disconnected and capped. I have been tweaking a little off that mark playing with it. I am thinking of just setting it at 3500 and 32 degrees and maybe allowing a couple of degrees extra advance from there. I don't think a couple more degrees advance will hurt anything, do you? It really seems to be making alot more power the more advanced I go. I should also check compression.

I have found my 74 tii with a 013 dizzy seems to perform better at the most advanced limits for ignition timing. More power, quicker throttle response, and smoother idle. Right now I would say I am at the limits recommended.

1000 rpm- measured 3 degrees - book range 0 to 4

1500 rpm- measured 15 degrees - book range 10 to 14

2000 rpm- measured 21 degrees - book range 15 to 20

2500 rpm- measured 27 degrees - book range 21 to 26

3000 rpm- measured 30 degrees - book range 28 to 30

I didn't measure beyond 3000 because it was getting late... I am not so much concerned with getting more performance as eliminating a little hesitation and maybe slight bucking at 3000 rpm while cruising. Pretty sure fuel is not the problem- my plugs are beautiful, psi and volume are good! All other rpm ranges while cruising are smooth and no problem while accelerating- its just while holding steady throttle at 3000 rpm. The more advance timing the problem seems to diminish. My question is how far should I go with the advance? What do you guys all run? Right now I am thinking a couple more degrees might not hurt- but where do I start getting into ping range? Not sure what a ping will sound like in this car and really would like to baby it... Thanks for your responses!

At that price I would at least expect a nice paint job....

UPDATE for anyone following this thread. I took the old 12 inch fan out and installed the 14 inch fan. It was a tight fit and had to be placed off center by about an inch. I also flushed the block and replaced the coolant with a 25/75 mixture of antifreeze and water. I have only had a chance to run the car in the driveway but it now holds temp well. The temp gets slightly over half and the fan kicks on bringing it back down to about half. Before it could not recover and bring the temp down, I had to be moving over 30 mph to get it to cool.

Here are a couple pictures showing the size difference from the 12 to the 14 inch fan.

I want to try a flush and the bigger fan before I spring for an ir thermometer.

LOL! an IR thermometer is like $20........way cheaper than either of the other things listed. everyone should have one anyway. useful for all kinds of things.

The wife has me on notice to stop spending so much money on the car ... Put 5k into it in the last 6 months. I can sell the 12 inch fan to offset the cost of the 14 inch-- both only $33 from IE

I am positive that the fan turns on and blows the correct direction. Despite the debate on fan thermostat position the fan does seem to come on at the correct temp as well.

I have confirmed its a 3 core, I have counted the rows looking in the radiator cap when the coolant is drained.

I want to try a flush and the bigger fan before I spring for an ir thermometer.

I'll give IE a call.

After extended driving when the engine gets heat soaked it is becoming apparent that the fan can not bring the temperature down. At best the fan is coming on when it should at about half way on the temp gauge and then slows the rise of the temperature. After extended hard driving or stop and go if it was just left to idle the temperature would rise and go into the red. The only effective way right now for me to bring the temp back down is to be moving over about 35 mph for several minutes.

I hope with the bigger fan at least when it kicks on it will not only arrest the temp rise but be able to bring it down, like when the car is cruising..

The instructions with the kit do not say where the fan thermostat should be placed...

My opinion the first indication that the fan should come on is when the radiator can no longer output coolant at sufficiently low enough temperature. That trigger should be on the radiator output where it can be measured first. That of course is with a properly calibrated and fitted fan thermostat and all other things being equal.

I would also have a minor concern of air pockets in the top hose to the radiator.. I know at the bottom hose the fan thermostat is always submerged in nothing but coolant.

Thermostat location for a fan has been hashed through quite a few times on this forum. It is a true statement that the top hose will be warmer than the bottom and be the hose at which to measure engine temp. This is why your water temp gauge is off the top hose. Think about the purpose of the fan- it is to supplement or supply airflow through the radiator to maintain constant COOLANT output temp NOT control engine temp. Thus fan thermostat needs to be on the radiator output (bottom) hose. Engine temp is modulated and controlled by your coolant thermostat...

IF that still doesn't convince you then look at any of the BMWs that followed the 2002 and had an electric fan. The electric fan thermostat is on the output (bottom) hose or in a bung on the bottom of the radiator.

Here is a close up of the center of the seat bottom. It is vinyl like the rest of the seat. I hope that answers your question- I am not that familiar with seat inserts.

Luke

I measured the area of the radiator and decided I could fit the Ireland 14 inch fan. It is only $33 so I ordered it. I know I might be just treating a symptom of an underlying problem but this can't hurt. When I went out to measure the front area of the radiator it struck me how little of the radiator actually benefits from the electric fan pushing air. The center of the fan has the electric motor which blocks airflow and there is a good 2 inches on either side of the fan blades where those cooling rows in the radiator will not benefit. Ireland says the 12 inch fan puts out about 1200 cfm and the 14 inch 2000 cfm which is quite a difference.

I did check belt tension on the water pump and also pulled the spark plugs to see how the mixture was. The plugs looked good to me-- Pic below.

I will keep you all posted on how the 14 inch fan works out and diluting the water coolant ratio.

Luke

I live in Atlanta GA and take paypal only.

IF INTERESTED EMAIL ME at pilotnbr1@hotmail.com

faq messages have not been reaching me....

If the seat is shipped I will send via greyhound to keep shipping costs reasonable. If you want a quote to ship the seat go to ---http://www.shipgreyhound.com/ play with the numbers and see what you get as far as a shipping cost for the seat. I would say it weighs about 40 lbs.

-A pretty decent passenger side early stock seat (padding is getting thin, but no rips or tears and all hardware seems to work) $75 SHIPPING SEPERATE

The recaro in the picture below already sold-- sorry

-Cylinder 2,3,4 high pressure fuel injection lines (Were pulled from a working 74 tii. No known leaks or blockages) $15 a piece or $40 for all 3 SHIPPED

-Unknown steering wheel says made in Italy on back... Comes with horn button not pictured. I may have an adapter as well but currently this is WITHOUT adapter.(pulled from my 74tii, horn worked, leather is in poor shape and is cracked at joints) $40 SHIPPED

-Dizzy Pulled from working car. Shaft has about 2mm vertical play. No horizontal play. Mechanical advance only. Changed out because I wanted the stock dizzy for my 74tii with the vacuum retard. Was working fine before though. Does not include rotor or condensor. Cap has chip on end and might not be correct. $80 shipped

Thats interesting about the coolant mix Carl. I might have to try playing with the mix. My car seems to hold temperature very predictably. Cool while cruising and hot when idle.

Anyone have experience fitting a 14 inch fan? I poked around on the forum search and it sounds like people do run 14. I just remember putting the 12 inch on and thinking there wasn't much room to play with.