pilotnbr1

I broke down and bought a new expansion tank... I would still be interested in a fuel filter mount though.

Luke

(nt)

I was able to get some work done.. I reposted my question regarding the exhaust type. The answers I get are "bundle of snakes" and "spaghetti", ANSA copied from Alpina. I decided to fix my oil leaking exhaust stud and that would require detaching the exhaust manifold. While there I figured I would replace all gaskets and studs.

After soaking the exhaust studs and bolts for a couple days everything came apart very easily. One stud broke at the nut very easily and 2 nuts came out with the stud attached. All of the studs and bolts came out very easily on the top. All of the bottom ones were the trouble makers. I used the "double nut" technique to remove all studs including the one that sheared, which fortunately had enough exposed thread to work with. Pics Attached.

On order are 8 studs, nuts, gaskets, and high temp loctite. I was unable to order everything from one source...

After detaching the exhuast manifold I noticed the number one header moved independently from the others somewhat. On investigating I found a tear in the piping at a bend... I was planning ultimately to go all stock so I guess I am going to replace the exhaust manifold and whatever else needs to be replaced, sooner than later.... Anyone have a line on a good used 1974 tii exhaust manifold or reasonably priced new one? And is anyone interested in my busted "bag of snakes"?

While I sort the exhaust stuff out and wait for parts I am going to finally adjust valve clearances!

Ill take them! Message sent.

Thanks for the responses! Right now I do know the #3 cylinder top stud is leaking oil but I am not aware of any cracks or damage to the exhaust. Is there any advantage or disadvantage to this type of exhaust? I really don't have a benchmark to compare it to as I am very new to the 2002 scene. If I do remove it will I be forced to replace other portions of the exhaust system other than the exhaust manifold itself? Thanks!

Anyone know what kind of exhaust this is on my 74 tii? Should I go back to stock? Thanks

Anybody know what type of exhaust this is? Should I go back to stock?

UPDATE- Got the new linkage rod ends, talk about an improvement!

Got the Tii manual for the KF pump from the TII register. Followed instructions on setting all linkages and adjustments to a baseline except for the part with a CO meter for setting mixture. Prior to that I had cleaned the throttle body, soaked the injectors in chem-dip, and replaced the fuel injection hoses all except for number 1.

I received a fuel injection hose for cylinder 1 from bmw that looks nothing like the oem hose. It is black, flexible, and resembles a flexible hose you would find on the brakes... I don't like the look and want to find a new replacement hose that is identical to the original... Once that is sorted I am most likely going to sell the old hoses here if anyone wants them.

Anyhow after all the adjustments the car starts up and idles fine at around 1000 rpm. No misfire or rough idle and more importantly no fuel leak. I am sure the fuel leak was from the hoses to the number 2 and 3 fuel injectors. Those hoses weren't even finger tight....

Now I have oil smoking from cylinder 3 exhaust header/stud or studs....Not looking forward to fixing that.. I have replacement gaskets but I really don't want to tackle replacing the studs themselves.

The other minor issue now seems to be somwhat slow throttle response. I think there is still some slop in the throttle linkages and I am going to change out all of the old ball rod ends and am considering ordering new springs as well.

From here I am also going to continue to get the car to baseline by checking valve clearances, change points, condenser, and set timing... All things I have never done before.

Thanks for the replys- I think im going to go with the replacement rod ball ends from mercedes. Are all 6 ball ends in the 3 linkages the same except for RH or LH?

I discovered a cracked ball rod end on the linkage from the KF pump to the throttle. I have been all over the internet trying to find a replacement but have not been able to find the part. Any suggestions or ideas?

I've been surfing around trying to find a replacement linkage to the rod end from the pump to the throttle on the throttle side and am not having much luck. Any suggestions? Below is a picture of the broken one.

John, I'm off Spring Road in Smyrna. I'm going to try and get to some of these 2002 meetups when I have a chance!

Luke

UPDATE: I got the injectors out and they do look a little dirty (pic below). Going to soak them in Chem-dip and find a local place to test them. The good news is when I went to remove the fuel injection hoses from the injectors, cylinders 2 and 3 nuts holding the hoses on were not even finger tight. This explains my fuel leak and engine roughness because it wasnt getting gas.

While I have it all apart I am going to clean the throttle body as well (pic below).

On a side note one of the plastic linkages to the KF pump is cracked and needs to be replaced as well...

Thanks all to your responses! You are correct lilmo that I bought a tii to have a tii and I am already invested in the injection system. I became even more invested in the fuel injection system when I ordered 4 new fuel injection lines for each cylinder to the tune of $125. The old ones seemed brittle and I figured this would be eliminating one more source of the fuel leak.

Only the pump was sent to Fairchild. The injectors sat unused for several years and most likely need a good cleaning and possible rebuild as the fuel became varnish. While I have them out I'll also clean up the throttle body and ultimately put the original air canister back on. As everyone has suggested and when I have time, I am going to go through the process of checking ignition/pump timing, pump linkages, and valve clearances. I have already seen significant engine improvement so far and believe that I can accomplish even more before taking the car to a pro.

Thursday I hope to be able to do some work to the car and will have more updates! Thanks again to all responders!!

Thanks for the response and explaining what the mystery hose was! I think I am just going to replace the braided fuel line altogether. Then I will know that it isnt the cause of the leak and it will make the engine compartment look more stock.

To get to the bottom of the leak I pulled 3 of the 4 intake manifold "u" pipes off. I didn't discover the leak but am going to pull the fuel injectors and give them a good cleaning while I have the intake apart. Anyone use Chem-Dip on tii injectors?

I got a look at the stems and tops of the intake valves and they are filthy. Solid black crud completely covering the top of the valves.... Picture enclosed of one of them..

UPDATE: I haven't had much time to work on the car but was able to change plugs and plug wires. I went through all of the fuel hoses and discovered a blockage to the cold start fuel jet. I also replaced the brake booster vacuum line. This car has been completely desmogged with all but the brake booster vacuum line capped. So there is no vacuum line to the distributer. It is only mechanical advance, as I understand the vacuum line on a stock distributer is a deceleration retard type..

The car now starts fairly normally and idles at about 1000 rpm but it is a rough idle. I need to time it and check valve clearances.

My big concern right now is the fuel leak. I cannot find the source. Fuel is gathering on the drivers side of the transmission just below the starter. It only begins to gather after the car has been running. With the engine off and the fuel pump running there is no leak... I've checked the new fuel return line, lines from the KF pump to the injectors, and injectors themeselves... Its hard to see under/in the intake manifold..Ive added a picture of the area under the starter motor. ANY ideas??

I also have a mystery black pvc line coming out of the firewall next to the stainless braided fuel return line. The mystery line does not attach to anything in the engine compartment. Picture enclosed of that as well for anyone with some ideas.

Hey Jon thanks for the response! Unfortunately I will be out of town next weekend but look forward to meeting local 2002 people. I am in Smyrna just outside the perimeter.

As far as the car goes I am still sorting it out... It has had some modifications done such as a K&N air filter and a MARK 10 C ignition system which I know nothing about. Should I go back to stock with all of it? I do have the original air box in the trunk of the car and would be willing to go back to a stock ignition setup if the Mark 10 system is going to be a headache.

Question for you guys- How do you disable the fuel injection pump to perform a compression test? I pulled the number 12 8amp fuse which the legend on the sticker says is the fuel pump but then the starter would not engage...

Thanks for the responses! I am going to go through it and get everything back to stock with manual tolerances. Today I am going to replace all the hoses that have anything to do with the vacuum side of things. I can see where the vacuum hose going to the brake booster is suspiciously wrapped with tape.

Hi all, I have been a long time lurker on the forum and been watching for the right car to come along. 2 months ago I found a 74 tii down in Florida went and checked it out and made the leap!

The car had not been driven for a number of years and had already had the fuel system gone through by a pro. Tank boiled out, fuel lines changed, fuel pump changed, fresh filter. All but the KF injection pump and injectors. Everything else seemed functional and relatively rust free, minus brakes and clutch. After I bought the car I had the KF injection pump rebuilt by Fairchild Industries, which I highly recommend. After the rebuilt pump was put on by a shop in Florida they got the engine to start. At that point I was done with the shop and had the car shipped to my home in Atlanta Georgia.

Heres where it get interesting and I am open to all ideas and suggestions. Upon receiving the car it starts but only after some extended cranking and the gas pedal to the floor. Once it starts I have to hold the gas at about 4000 rpm to prevent the car from dying. After a minute or so of this it warms up and I no longer have to hold the gas pedal. Then as it further warms and rpm drops it dies abruptly at about 2500 rpm. When running at 4000 rpm it seems fairly normal with no smoke and a great sound! RPM lower than 4000 and you can feel some roughness.

Other problems are that something is creating smoke right below or at the number 3 spark plug(im thinking below as the wires are sooty and it doesnt smell or look like oil cooking off) and a fuel leak causing an accumulation in a nook of the transmission above the clutch slave.

The smoke and fuel leak I will track down with more time. It is the engine performance that I am hoping someone may have some pointers. I pulled the spark plugs and they are some variety of bosch platinums that seem incorrect with the number 3 plug oily and a gap of only 025 vs about 035 on the others. The wireset was in poor shape as well. I got some NGK BP6ES at autozone but they didnt have bosch or NGK spark plug wiresets in stock. So I was unable to try them on the engine. I know this is not alot to go on but was hoping you guys might have some ideas.

I have only had the car a day, and spent time getting the clutch back up and working so I could get the car up our sloped driveway and off the street. I would describe myself as a shade tree mechanic in terms of ability. Thanks for all the help and the education I have gotten so far!

Sorry just realized you said no paypal....

Ill take a windshield gasket if one is still available. Via paypal