pilotnbr1

For whatever reason I am not receiving emails via faq... I can be emailed at pilotnbr1@hotmail.com . I have a different email for paypal which I do not want to post here as to avoid spam in that account. I will provide that to any buyers when contacted at the above email account. Sorry for the complications seems faq is having some issues with their email system.

Email sent back regarding lug wrench.... It goes with the jack to turn it.

How does $40 shipped sound? Thanks!

Luke

Anyone know what kind of sunroof this is in my 74 tii? Thanks!

seat pic

More pics

Most of these parts are used driver quality at best. Some of it may just find its way to the trash! Just make me an offer if you want it.... I live in Atlanta GA and take paypal only. If the seats are shipped I will send via greyhound to keep shipping costs reasonable.

-SOLD Working Electric Radiator Fan (no brackets or screws for the backside of the radiator)

-SOLD Working Jack (some surface rust)

-Unknown steering wheel made in Italy(pulled from my 74tii, horn worked, comes with adapter, missing one adapter screw of the 5, leather is in poor shape and is cracked at joints)

-2 turn signal switches from 74 2002 (one intact switch the high low beam part is broken but the turn signal side and turn cancelling works fine. The other switch had broken turn cancelling before I split it.)

-Cylinder 2,3,4 high pressure fuel injection lines (Were pulled from a working 74 tii. No known leaks or blockages)

-SOLD Fiamm Air horns made in Italy (pump is filthy but turns and puts out air when hooked to power. When pump was tested it was not hooked up to the horns so I don't know if it was enough air to sound the horns, but it did sound strong. Y splitter for the air lines was brittle and snapped..opps)

-Alarm siren (condition unknown.. Going in trash if nobody here wants it)

-SOLD Alpine radio cassette player (condition unknown, age unknown.. It will take an electrical engineer to figure out the rats nest of wires attached to the back. Also have an amp and 2 rear speakers and 1 front speaker if anyone wants em.. )

-SOLD New/rebuilt Cardone Non tii water pump (ordered for about $40 and found it was wrong for my tii. It is in the box with instructions and gasket. My loss your gain!)

-A rough Driver side Recaro missing the headrest

-A pretty decent passenger side early stock seat (padding is getting thin, but no rips or tears and all hardware seems to work)

So CD you don't support the engine from the top after the lift? Sounds much easier if you can just lift from the bottom and brace the engine with some wood blocks.

Yeah this whole cutting the gasket thing only crosses my mind as a quick fix to get you to a time and place where a proper repair can be made. If it is even possible....

The people who do this on the e46 forums don't remove the pan.. Just create enough gap to remove the old gasket and put the new "cut" gasket in. I am with you though on the possibility of new leaks- but some of them swear that they get a good lasting seal.

Luke

I have a an oil pan gasket leak/seep.. I am considering that as my next little project. After some faq searching it is obvious that the engine must be lifted a couple inches to change the gasket.

My question- Has anyone attempted/or is it possible to change the gasket with out lifting the engine and putting 2 strategic cuts in the gasket? With the gasket cut is it possible to wiggle it in and then forma-gasket at the cuts?

I have an e46 which I have heard this technique will work... I realize this is a half-ass repair and I will most likely bite the bullet and do it the right way. Just curious if this is even an option.

Luke

Even though you may have a gap between the warm up transmitter washer and the lever arm of the regulator, when it is warm you may be running lean. The lean condition is caused by an incomplete shutoff of the auxilliary air. My understanding is that you can adjust the fuel relationship somewhat by adjusting the position of the regulating lever and grub screw gap however aux air is only shutoff by the complete extension of the warm up transmitter rod.

The Macartney manual has a method of adjusting the warm up transmitter which eliminates some of the variables of our old worn cars.

Thanks for looking!

No one has offered an ashtray handle... I'll take one off your hands if you have one! What were you thinking as far as price? Thanks!

Luke

Thanks for all the replies! Good to know about the resistor wire as part of the harness. Anyone have a picture or a specific location to look? I am sure I can track it down other wise. With the harness resistor and the resistor in the blue coil I probably have too much resistance in the system. If I can verify that my resistor is present in the harness I am going to put the black coil back in...

Thanks for the response regarding the Delta MK 10. That clears up some things and I will need to correct my spark plug gap. Anyone know if the coil makes a difference with a CD system?

Sounds like its time for a Crane system or a dizzy rebuild.... Thanks again all

This is what I see in the manual for a 74 tii.. Which I am pretty sure is a mechanical advance, vacuum retard distributor. I also have the 2 vacuum ports on the top of the intake manifold as well as the corresponding vacuum ports on the air box. Currently all capped as the car was "desmogged".

But you are right- I need the exact numbers from the two dizzys I have to really make an informed decision on what to do.

When timing my 74 tii I have noticed my timing mark is jumpy by quite a few degrees. In addition through about 2500 to 3000 rpm the car seems to buck slightly in gear and decelerating. Car seems to idle and run well otherwise. However I have never been around another tii (I know I need to get out more), so I have nothing to compare it to. I believe I can get more power out of it by improving my ignition situation.

Here is what the PO left me-

Wrong distributor- It is Mechanical advance only and I don't have the numbers available (traveling) with new rotor and cap

Standard plug wires

Blue Coil

Fresh Mechanical Points

Delta Mark 10 with the switch on the top

My questions-

I do have an additional distributor which appears to be the correct one for a 74tii as it has the vacuum retard part on the side, but once again I dont have the numbers... If it is the correct dizzy for a 74tii should I swap it in? I understand that the 74 tii dizzy had its own map to match the KF pump which was also slightly different than other years, is this correct? I don't think I have much to lose by experimenting and maybe I will eliminate some of the jumpy timing. The dizzy on there may be worn....

should I ditch the blue coil? I know this is the incorrect, internally resisted, weaker coil of the blue, red, and black options. I have an untested black coil laying around however I would have to buy a resistor. Does the resistor come with the mounting bracket so it attached above the coil? MOST importantly does the coil even matter with the Capacitor Discharge system?

Does anyone have experience with these "period correct" Delta Mark 10 units? I press the switch on top and notice no difference in engine performance. When the Mark 10 fails will the engine die or does it just continue running as if the switch on the Mark 10 has been pushed off?

What I am thinking-

is to put in the 74 tii dizzy with the vacuum retard (if its the correct dizzy I have) and time it to see if that eliminates some of the jumpy timing. If the jumpy timing is still present than install a crane optical trigger which I understand will work fine with a worn dizzy.

Second swap out the blue coil and put in black but only if I can find a mount for the resistor. Hopefully the mount comes with it..

Finally keep the Mark 10 if someone can confirm my switch question..

What would you guys do? I will take reliability over having a stock car and would rather buy a crane instead of rebuilding the dizzy.

Sorry for all the questions and thanks for the replies as always!

Got one from ebay finally!! Thanks all

I tried polishing it with some dremel tool attachments just as I had done with some other parts and it went right through the finish.... I'll let you know if anyone else offers. I'm in smyrna btw.

I don't need a whole ashtray... Just the metal handle in nice shape please! I live in Atlanta GA and can paypal. Thanks!

Luke

Thanks for the reply CD! Would the check valve be on the inlet side of the electric pump so as to also keep the pump primed?

I understand that the tii oem electric pump has a built in or attached one-way fuel check valve. My car has some after market electric pump and I do not believe it has a check valve. Anyone else encounter this? Any suggested place to add a valve?

The only reason I am concerned is without the check valve is it possible for the k-fish pump to drain? If so is that bad for the k-fish? Will the car be more difficult to start if you are missing the one-way valve or does turning on the ignition and energizing the electric pump for a few second before cranking eliminate that possibility?

Sorry for all the questions!

I agree that it is the warm up regulator. Try adjusting it per the method described in the Macartney manual.

As a noob that just wanted to change my windshield seal by myself I can tell you that it is a fairly easy job... But I did crack my windshield... My old seal was a hardened cracked pos.. So I had to cut it out with a razor. During the cutting I believe I knicked the edge of the glass just enough to start a crack. The reinstall went fairly well until I started "slapping" the shield to adjust it and it cracked in the same area I had been aggressive with the razor.

Things I would have done differently--

1-use smaller cord rope- when I cracked it I was having trouble with positioning in a large part due to the diameter of the rope. My first attempt was with rope a little thicker than your average extension cord. After that fiasco I went to the store and got much smaller diameter of cord which was slightly smaller than a pencil. That made a HUGE difference and it was actually easy to get everything positioned and in place.

2- NOT use a URO seal. I had heard horror stories about URO and had ordered BMW but got URO anyway. I was pressed for time so I decided to use URO. It wasnt as bad as I expected and actually has a decent fit but I suspect a BMW seal may have made it all easier.

3- and the obvious things I would change is to NOT knick the edge of the glass or slap it too hard especially if the shield is not laying correctly and thus not completely supported on all sides...

There is a 3 part video on youtube of some guys changing a windshield that is very useful, especially when it comes to understanding how to lay and draw the rope. I say go for it!!

email sent back--- I never got your email

I need a complete turn signal switch and lever for a 74 tii. Last used one I bought didn't cancel the turn going one way. So please ensure all functions work including hi/low beam. I can Paypal and live in Atlanta Ga. Thanks!

Luke