Inka’d02

bump

On 9/21/2019 at 7:52 PM, conkitchen said:

There was a time-perhaps it will come again when tii water pumps where NLA. Today, not so much.  I just sent my used one for rebuild and it cost less than $100.  Good as new upon return.  

I completely agree. I figured the pump had value at 140 and the bypass tube at 35. You are spot on withe rebuild cost of 100 bucks. That puts you at 240 which is a lot better then 380 plus shipping for a BMW factory pump rebuilt (FCP).

I understand you can get aftermarket one for 200 from wallothnesch but it's off brand. A reman factory pump is my preference.

Always open to offers as well.

Thanks,

Andy

bump, price reduced to 200. Bumpers and belt trim sold.

20 hours ago, shermanmartinez said:

Go all in! You spray painted the body of the pump, at least wire wheel the impeller to get all that rust off to make it somewhat match the silver paint you put on it.

shermanmartinez at hotmail dot com

PO did that, I recieved it with paint on it.

Howdy,

Anyone install one? How did it come out? Can you share photos?

Thanks!

Andy

Used factory tii water pump and bypass tube. Came off a recently running engine (6 months ago) with no leaks. Date code is 1988.

Howdy, 

Looking for two ignition cylinders with keys. 

Thanks! 

Andy

bump

Found these while digging through some old family photos. My dad competed in SCCA with a GT3 prepared 2002 from 1988 through 97. These are him and me from 1989/1990 timeframe. Pocono and Bridgehampton. Pretty cool to find, looking for some at speed photos. I wonder what happened to the car sometimes.

Also found a vhs tape with a in-car 2002 at Bridgehampton. I'll try to get it up on uoutubw in the next couple of weeks.

The included bumpers 

Just pulled this off a car. Its not perfect by any means but its not a mess. The rust on the hems and supports are mostly surface. It is not blistering through or peeling the hems apart. 

Bumpers sold

Trim pieces are sold

Thanks!

Andy 

I think it is closer to center, not sure I know its there though. Unfortunately i only have the one photo. 

New ITG!

Howdy,

I recently came upon a car that has been sitting for awhile and I noticed the steering wheel in the car.I have seen these wheels come up for sale for some serious money but I would like to know if anyone knows what this one is worth. The main difference I have seen in these steering wheels is that some have the old BMW motorsposts roundel in the center aluminium vs in the center pad.  This car has the latter. I am wondering what people think this is worth with worn leather grip.I am asking this because debating buying the car and wondering what I can recoupe for the wheel. 

Thanks!

Andy

Anyone have a nice used one?

Thanks!

Andy

2 hours ago, 2002Scoob said:

Ugh. Bummer man, sorry to hear. Was hoping you could diagnose to minor and not have to crack it apart ?


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It is what it is. Brightside is I was planning in doing some upgrades anyway. Thanks Again!

2 hours ago, jimk said:

This test should be done with oil in the oil pocket.  Without oil, the tensioner piston has no hydraulics.  And with oil in the pocket and the air pumped out of the tensioner piston, to push it away from the engine (I think you call it back), it should take a lot of force and/or not want to move away at all.

I presume you understand the tensioner works by hydraulics to hold the chain with a ball check, not the spring.

To clarify. I checked with the reservoir full then with the oil pulled out. Reason being I couldnt see if the piston is moving freely in the bore when submerged in 1800 mile oil.

21 hours ago, 2002Scoob said:

I echo what Mark mentions... Warm sounds OK, although at the beginning of the vid it seems like there's still a bit of a clacky sound going on around the 8 sec mark... at least more than what I'm used to hearing on my car. 

 

It almost sounds like the same noise at the beginning of your warm-video that I'm hearing in the cold, it's just that the RPM's are lower. As an experiment, have you tried to drop your idle when warm and see if the noise is still there, but being masked by the higher idle speed? 

 

If ya haven't gotten around to getting a mechanic's stethascope, pull off your oil cap and see if you can at least pinpoint if the sound is coming from the valvetrain or not. 

 

I'd also double-check your valve tolerances, maybe ya missed something. And as Mark asked, how much lash-clearance did you set? 

 

I think you mentioned that you'd checked the tensioner? It's easy to remove the valve-cover and try to compress the tensioner with a screwdriver, and confirm it's firm. 

 

Do you have a build-sheet from whoever did your motor? As mentioned before, if the builder didn't measure and match each bore to the piston, you can have a range of tolerances. But depending on your shop... I think that's pretty common knowledge and practice to do so. 

So, at the same rpm hot as cold, you can here the noise but it is verrry muted. I do have a stethoscope but I can not isolate it. I checked the tensioner by using a syringe to pull the oil out of the cavity so I could see the tensioner piston. Using the screw driver, I can push it back and it returns to taught just fine. Seems like this is slap or bushing. I guess we will find out in the fall when I pull it out. Real bummer.

Thanks

2 hours ago, Hans said:

Was it a new tensioner? Did you clean the old one? Seems to me someone had that problem before of plugged tensioner hole(s). Stethoscope time but be very careful with engine running.

I was a used tensioner. I will look inyo that more today

1 hour ago, Mark92131 said:

Warm engine sounds pretty normal, cold engine sounds like a loose valve train.  When was the last time you adjusted the valves and what valve lash did you use?  Could also be timing chain slop, any deflection in the timing chain?

 

 

Checked the valves last week. All good

14 hours ago, AceAndrew said:

 

These are well known (measured a couple sets myself) to have relatively high diameter variances.  If your machinist bore out all the holes to one size, then you will have a number of different piston/bore clearance numbers.  However, this should have been apparent within a reasonably short time of being rebuilt.

 

I like the rod end bushings theory.

Videos  below 

Thanks

13 hours ago, Hans said:

Did you bleed the chain tensioner piston?

yes

1 hour ago, TobyB said:

If you're sure they're getting worse, yes, it is...

And you can simply listen every time it starts-

you'll get an 'additive picture' of what's going on.

Eventually, the dots will connect, and you'll figure it out.

And then decide if it's needing repair.

 

If it's always been that way, maybe not so much.

 

t

optimistically

Thanks, I shot a hot video tonight when I got home. I will do a cold in the morning so you guys can get a better feel. I have owned a lot of 2002s and am quite sure this is not healthy. But thanks so much for the input.

They were a new set of max-sil pistons and cylinders were re-bored.

What about the timing chain tensioner can cause the knocking noise? I am really curious about this one.

I like the small end bushing as well but they were done, unless maybe one failed...

Thanks, 

Chain, tensioner, and guide are new but please let me know what  you think might be the issue there.

Conrod bushings were done. Would that get quieter as it warms up?

Great oil pressure- 65 psi idle when cold. 40 at idle when hot.

Did use a stethoscope. Def somewhere in the short block but I will take a listen tot he timing chain cover area tonight. 

Thanks for the thoughts so far.