Inka’d02

51 minutes ago, uai said:

What you describe is the symptom if advance starts before 1000 RPM.

Advance should be static 10° and not variable before 1000 RPM.

I do this by preloading the first spring in the dizzy

 So what you are saying is IF the advance is 10 at 1000RPM and when the idle drops to 600 it should still be at 10 degrees, correct? If it is not here is a couple of questions:

1. How would I go about pre-loading the first spring in a way that is reversible if it does not improve things?

2. Which spring is the first one? One extension spring in my distributor is under tension and one is loose (slightly longer) when the car is off.  

Guys, 

I really appreciate the help but I feel like I am spinning my wheels here. 

1. The linkage is returning to the idle position (against the stop screw when you release the throttle) repeatably every time. Let me add, in conjunction with the return springs in each carb, I have one pulling the linkage to home position.

2. The advance works fine, I set the idle advance to the suggested position of 10 DEGREE ADVANCE AT 1000 RPM.

3. Carbs are synced perfectly carb to carb and barrel to barrel. (checked at idle and at higher RPM done with the engine hot).

I can not get it to idle right, the problem when I let off it drops to 1500 then slowly falls to 1000-1050 (holds for a few seconds) then continues to fall to 600 and holds. Engine rock starts around 800, which I guess could be associated with the 292. I checked the synchronization at 600 rpm as well, still perfect even though shes rocking. 

I also tried a couple of different idle jet sizes last night, 45F9, 45F8, 50F9, 55F9, no luck just different idle mixtures needed as to be expected.

Maybe I can add one more piece of info that might help. If I set the idle such that it initially falls to anything over 1500, say 1600, it does not continue to fall, it just stays at 1600.

At the end of the day I just need the car to back to idle faster, not pause at 1500 and take time to drop. And second I need it to not continue to fall after it hits 1000/1050 RPM.

Thanks again everyone.

Andy

On 7/13/2020 at 5:07 PM, uai said:

Yup

 

No Dice. At 10 degree advance at 1000. I still get 1500 when I left off then slowly creeping down to 1000 and then falling off even more to 600. Engine starts to rock at 800. I have the carbs perfectly syncd and the linkage is hard stopping against the idle screw. As soon as I let off, no bind.

^ Price reduced by 100. 

4 hours ago, uai said:

I'd try setting it on 10° BTDC and see how idle is before doing anything. If Idle is ok then then I'd see further

Okay to have that 10 degrees at 1000 RPM?

59 minutes ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

 

Is the center post moving freely on the shaft?  Weights don't typically stick at their pivot points, but the post can develop friction that doesn't let it return, if it is not lubricated periodically.

 

 

Before you run out and buy a 123, may I ask a couple more distributor questions?

 

How deep into the distributor did you go?  Did you go in from the top, or drill the gear pin and pull the shaft out?

 

If that is indeed a NOS unit, I would not send it in for a rebuild.  There is some adjustment built into that early style distributor.  I'd try that first (next).

 

If you drill the pin and pull the shaft, you'll see that the tabs that the springs attach to are adjustable from the underside, by loosening the two screws and turning it.  That will put more or less pressure on the weights' lobes and alter the curve using the original weights and springs.  No new parts needed.

The screws that hold that piece on have little tiny wave washers underneath that will allow you to put enough tension on them to stay put, but still reach down and move them to make adjustments and test the results with your variable timing light.  Then when you get it right, you can tighten it back down.  Or, you can set it tight and try it; rinse/repeat, until satisfied.

 

It'll be a little tedious, but it'll be fun too.  You'll have a much better understanding of (than just sending it off) and if you use a roll pin in place of the solid pin, it will be easy for you to get back in to perform the routine maintenance that will keep it working smoothly for years to come.

 

NOS distributor.... mmmmmm.  Please post a photo or two, if you dig into it.

 

Tom

Thanks Tom. Like I said everything moves freely. It is basically brand new. When I am saying recurve, I am more say custom curve, that is why I am leaning towards a 123.

5 minutes ago, Hans said:

Just a thought. What if you do as suggested above but put the ti ming light on it to see if it drops back to idle advance. I'm getting about 10 at 800 or so, 33 all in.

15 degree at 1000 Rpm. 33 all in as well The Linkage is not binding.

50 minutes ago, uai said:

  that's too much try to aim for 10°

That's about ok

 

 

Ok, that will require sending it out for re-curve?

1 hour ago, 2002Scoob said:

 

That's typical DCOE.

 

You should set your idle speed and mixtures when the motor is HOT. It sounds like you're setting it up too cold.

 

Get it running, go for a solid 20-30 minute drive. Get out on the freeway and push it a little so you know things are toasty, then pull into an empty parking lot with a nice shade-tree and dial everything in. (same thing should go for your synchronisation, too)

 

And when you say 'high idle', How high? 950-1100,  Cam dependant, is normal. I like to set mine between 950-980ish.

 

DCOE's take a little bit of 'nursing' when starting from cold. It's not uncommon that you need to maintain idle with your right foot the first several minutes of driving. You'll get used to it. 

 

It's also not uncommon that the car will want to completely stall in chilly temps the first few minutes if you're not attentive. But once everything warms up (if you set your idle/mixtures warm) it'll be A-OK.

 

 

I am doing all of my adjustments with the car plenty warmed up. Driven for 20 or so minutes then sync'd and adjusted. 

Start of this post explains the idle issue:

"When I let off the throttle it comes down to 1500 RPM and it then takes 20 to 30 seconds to slowly creep down to 1050 or so." 

OK Guys,,

So here's where we are. 

I changed the emulsion tubes to F16.

Re checked sync, the carbs are PERFECTLY balanced.

Triple checked linkage for bind.

Idle mixtures are 3.5 turns out. 

My sticking dist. weight (which is what I thought was the issue with dist.) turned out not to be sticking.

Idles advance is 15 deg, a result of the 33 full advance. I feel like that is where the car happiest there under power. And it does run great under power.

I would like to add one more symptom:

The high idling issue if only an issue when it is HOT, when cold it idles really low (500-600 RPM). After about 5 min of driving idle becomes an issue.

I am guessing at this point distributor re-curve as most have said. thinking about purchasing a 123? thoughts?

Thanks, 

Andy

1 hour ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

 

Any progress?

Actually yes! I may have a issue with my distributor, still investigating. Thanks!

On 7/2/2020 at 3:33 PM, Harry Malkas said:

Hi Inka'd 02. I have all three parts you need.

Please send me your email for photos.

Thanks

geraci2002@gmail.com 

Howdy!

Just sold an AC system but the buyer did not want the compressor. Bearings on compressor and tensioner spins free without noise and clutch works. Make me an offer, I will probably take it.

Thanks!

Andy

1 hour ago, 02ManyBimmers said:

I’ll take this.

pm me

Howdy!

Here a complete system just removed from a 76. The car was not running but everything looks to be in good shape. The compresson clutch works and bearings feel good. Condesor fan works too.

250+ Shipping.

Thanks!

Andy

4 hours ago, Hans said:

Spanish or italian? The carbs that is.

Spanish.

5 hours ago, uai said:

I‘d say you’ve got an ignition problem.

Get a ti distributor

Has one

4 hours ago, Preyupy said:

Before you spend a ton of time and money playing with your carbs break out your timing light.  How much advance do you have at 800 rpm?  Now check it at every 200 rpm from there up to about 3000.  

 

WRITE IT DOWN

 

 Now let the throttle close and if it comes down to 1500 watch the timing change as it slowly goes back down to the 800 rpm idle. I’ll bet you have a tired distributor and the advance is not consistent down in the “idle” range. 2 deg of advance can make a 100-200 rpm change in idle speed without changing anything on the carburetors.  If the weights and springs in the distributor don’t reliably retard the timing as the engine gets down near idle you can’t set a reliable idle speed.

 

Just as an example if you have the throttle plates set at 1% open ( this is just theoretical) and the timing is at 8 deg BTDC you might be at 800 rpm.  If you advance the timing to 14 deg BTDC and leave the carburetors alone you could easily have the engine up to 1500rpm.  If you keep the timing at 14 deg you might need to go to 0.5% of throttle opening to get back down to 800 rpm. 
 

Now think about if your distributor advances 6 degrees between 800 and 1500 rpm how will you get it to go back to an 800 rpm idle?   You need to make sure the advance mechanism ALWAYS returns to a base setting by the time you are down to 1500-1700 rpm.  

Thanks. I will look into this. For reference, I am using s NOS tii distributor which I switched to a Petronix. I will certainly check this. In your opinion what would you like to see for full advance? I have set to 33 degrees if I recall. Also, I have the idle set where it is because the engine rocks around at anything below 1000rpm. 

Thanks Again

Howdy!

Another Weber DCOE question!

I have new motor with 9.5:1 and a Schrick 292, running 40mm DCOE's. I am having an issue with idle (of course). These were purchased in 2010 and were working fine on my old motor which has a stock cam.  When I let off the throttle it comes down to 1500 RPM and it then takes 20 to 30 seconds to slowly creep down to 1050 or so. It is REALLY annoying. I am running a cable set up pulling from the center. I have tried all different return springs from insanely stiff to no return spring, just the ones in the carbs. Throttle shafts move freely hot and cold. Synchronization is correct. Idle mixture screws are about 2.25 turns out. I feel like it must be a main to idle signal issue. Any ideas are appreciated.

Mains: 125

Idles 55f8

Emulsion: F11 

Air corrector: 180

Thanks!

1 hour ago, jfahuna said:

Have all that you need .

Pick up in L.A. 

 

I can't drive from CT to LA and back. If you want to give a price with shipping let me know. 

Thanks,

pm'd

Looking for a used:

L Door

R Fender

Late Nose Panel.

I am located in CT

Thanks,

Andy

1 hour ago, cscmanagement said:

what year car is this from and when was it "stored"?

Hi, 

1976, The car has been stored for about 20 years, indoors. Fluid is clean.

Was in working order when the car was stored. Comes with park switch harness and cooling lines. Always nice to have a spare.

Looking for a known good 2.0L long block. I am building a driver quailty car, needs to have decent compression, non-smoker. Located in CT, will pick in neighboring states or open to frieght quotes.

Thanks!

5 hours ago, jk16vturbo said:

If I pay you for the doors, would you be able to hold them for a week or two?  I am not even sure if we are supposed to be travelling so I guess I should ask how long would you be able to hold them for?  

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