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Posts posted by Inka’d02
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Looking for a known good cylinder head, recently rebuilt or just rebuilt.
Thanks! Andy
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Looking for a known good cylinder head, recently rebuilt or just rebuilt.
Thanks! Andy
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On 2/23/2022 at 1:50 AM, Cooper said:
Do you have a 292 camshaft by chance?
On 2/23/2022 at 8:41 PM, Yojedi8802 said:I could use the steering box. Without Pitman arm is alright.
I do have one. PM me
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Price: $100Location: Middlefield CT
Description:Howdy All,
I wanted to reach out to the group. I have built and serviced may 2002's over the years and have accumulated many parts (20 or so Rubbermaid bins) which I am trying to start thinning out. Too much to list. I do not have anymore sheet metal or engines (I do have engine parts and one cylinder head left). If there are things you need please feel free to message me and I check to see if I have it with pricing.
Thanks!
Andy
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Anyone have a nice straight pair. Driver quality, prefer no holes but if it has one (not a bunch) that might be fine. Looking for a friend.
Thanks,
Andy -
Greetings,
Anyone have an actual photo of the underside of a 76 fuse block. I need to confirm my connections. (outside of the wiring diagram)
Thanks,
Andy
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Thanks,
I will look into these suggestions.
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Greetings,
I have a fun one. I have a 2002 I am restoring, the car did not run when I go it. Now that I am reassembling the car after paint and engine rebuild and I have a found a electrical issue. The car was an automatic, I have converted it to a manual. I have removed the park safety circuit from the harness so it cranks and fires up no issue.
Here is the problem: With the ignition on accessory or run, the lights have to be on for the instrument cluster to read.
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Andy
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Howdy!
Quick question. I am finishing up a m42 install. The install was done with the m42 temp sensor. I am reading a lot of conflicting information regarding what a stock 2002 gauge should read. When the car is fully up to temp, the gauge reads between 2/3 and 3/4. As I understand it the M42 is a hotter running engine then a 2002 (190 F vs 175 F) and the resistance of the sensor is different, so it makes sense it should read different. I just want to know if what I am seeing on the dash is what I should be expecting.
Using an IR temp gun, I am seeing no spots on the head, thermostat, upper rad hose, etc greater than 185 when the gauge reads 2/3 to 3/4. Lower rad hose is reading about 120.
M42 conversion community, does this all make sense if I am using the m42 sensor? Just want to know for piece of mind.
Thanks,
Andy
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Looking for 1 pair.
Thanks,
Andy
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I need the cast bracket that bolts to the door in which the mirror can be set screwed to.
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Anyone have a used one?
Thanks,
Andy
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Hi!
Long shot but are these wheels still available?
Thanks!
Andy
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Anyone have a used known working one?
Thanks!
Andy
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Hey Guys,
Yes I am posting on E30 forums as well but I am putting a M42 in my car and I just dropped the oil pan and cracked the upper half...
Any chance someone has one?
Thanks,
Andy
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On 6/29/2020 at 12:55 PM, Inka’d02 said:On 6/29/2020 at 12:55 PM, Inka’d02 said:
^ Bump, price reduced again, I have a strange feeling this thing is headed to the scrap yard....
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12 minutes ago, Chris_B said:
Have you tried increasing the idle speed when the idle falls to below 1K RPMs, to keep it at 1K? I am not sure yet why you have the lazy idle, but as the RPMs drop your idle mixture will be changing commensurately, which may be the reason that the RPMs keep dropping- a vicious cycle. Do you have a wide band 02 sensor/AFM (sorry, i looked through this thread and didn't see anything about that. It would be interesting to know what his happening with the mixture when the idle speed falls.
See last post, looks to be solved(fingers crossed)
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1 hour ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:
Thank you for the photo of your nice clean cap. I put the one with the arc marks in to show that 'other' problem, but your marks look nicely centered. That's good.
You can see that the arc marks are up near the top of the copper bits. That shows that the rotor is riding high on the post. Maybe not unusually high though. The ones that I have seen that rubbed usually have some dust and stuff from the abrasion.
I am curious what the top of the rotor looks like.
Usually you can tell if it has been rubbing on the bottom of the cap for a while. There'll be a ring there.
I think we got it! Put the rotor in my milling machine and to 1 mm off. Also I checked the timing, consistently coming down to 10 degrees and no lower. I did tweak the timing alittle as well.
Now I just need to sort out that crackle pop on deceleration sometimes. NO I DO NOT HAVE ANY EXHAUST LEAKS!.
I will keep you posted on how it drives tomorrow.
Thanks again for the help everyone!
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52 minutes ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:
Thanks for posting the video that provided a glimpse of the distributor. At least now we know which type of advance mechanism we are dealing with here. It is a model #002, correct? (please?)
Here is a photo of my cap, when I had a PerTronix installed in my 002 distributor. It shows the symptom I described above.
That is not going to cause your issue, but if you have the problem of the rotor not being able to fully seat, it might be rubbing hard on the cap. Could you please post a photo of the top of your rotor?
The one that has tension on it is the first one, or the "idle spring". The other one is the "looped spring" and it does not come into play until the center post pin reaches the end of the loop.
You can remove the little oval cover in the side of the distributor and reach through that hole to bend the tab, using a homemade tool similar to the ones Uai showed on page one of this thread. Here is a photo of mine in use on the looped spring tab
The photo below is actually bending the stop tab for the weights, but it's the same idea. You'll be pushing down on the tool, to bend the top of the tab out, putting more tension on the spring.
In this photo you can see that the tool needs to be shaped in order to give clearance when bending.
As for it being reversible, you'll need to measure in from the edge of the hole, to see where the spring post is now; so that you can bend it back.
I made this tool for bending the stop tabs, so I could be more accurate and sure that they were both the same.
(mostly sharing for the fun of it -- aka, showing off, I suppose)
You could poke a bamboo skewer (or something) through the hole and mark the edge of the body on it with a knife, or a sharp pencil and use that as a reference for where it is now.
Have you put your curve on paper yet?
Tom
Thank you Tom, I will get that photo tonight. Just to confrim, the advance should not drop any lower than 10 degrees even if the RPM drops lower then 1000rpm?
Parts lot for sale
in Miscellaneous
Posted
Description:
Sell my inventory of parts that I have collected over the years. I will not split it up and obviously it needs to be picked up. I will help load.
1500 obo
Thanks, Andy