asifallasleep

pops out on deceleration

Is tightening the output shaft flange nut a dyi? Will i have to drop the tranny to get to it? What's involved? Can i crawl under the car and do this? Thanks.

Can anyone recommend a repair shop in LA? Thanks

i believe it is a loose output flange issue. i think i may also hear bearing noise. looks like i may go ahead and get a 5peed tranny installed.

haha, no

1974 2002, today i changed the oil to Redline 15w50 and now the car has begun popping out of 2nd gear. Anyway this can be related or just a coincidence? Any DYI I can do to troubleshoot this?

you have to take apart the plastic white coupler that this relay plugs into. four wires going into the coupler holding them in a position that lines up with the factory relay. once you've taken apart the coupler, you'll just have four wires hanging down.

Here's a pic along with price and order number. Part number is EL13. Works great. No need to ground as it's electronic. So you only use three wires.

if the motor is bad would the volt meter still react as if another device was switched on?

Also something others have not mentioned. if the heater core is full of crud you will get no heat, even with a new valve - no water flow = no heat. I replaced a valve a while back and it made no difference. I finally pulled the box, had a Rad shop cleanout the core and now I get melting socks like Mike. Just thought I'd mention it. Beaner7102 I don't need to turn the fan on in my car with the heat lever about 1/2 way "on". The outside air makes the fan turn and blow air thru the box. Shoe-melting heat in my car. I have to open the vent window. hmmm, i'm in los angeles so don't really need heat that often or that intensely. i just like to have everything working on my cars. so i guess i'll tackle the fan eventually.

i basically did the same as you did. the hose is so stiff seems to be no need for a bracket. i guess it will be fine as you did yours years ago!!!

I've already put everything back now. The lever works perfectly and I will test the heat tomorrow. I think i'll pull the box out when i change the blower fan at a later date. Interesting thing is that when i switch the fan on i hear a click and i see my volts go down as if it's working. Does that make sense? The fan just doesn't move.

Yikes. I did use a flexible PVC tube. Thanks for the heads up. Ran to Autozone and got proper heating hose and reinstalled. Funny how once you do something is soooo much easier the 2nd time around. The heating hose I got from Autozone was just as thick and sturdy as the PVC tube I removed. Modern day hose is so much thicker and sturdier than the old stuff. The original hose I replaced although of course old and worn, was so thin in its original state. I'm not sure with the thicker hoses if mounting the heating valve unit to the heating box is really necessary. The pulling of the cable is so light and with the hose being thick and all connections secure, similar to say a plumbing setup, I think I'm ok.

While troubleshooting a heating lever that wouldn't go all the way to warm to fully open, i discovered the issue was that the plastic bracket on the heater box that connects to the heater valve was all cracked. As a result the heater valve moved too far from the box, basically stretching the cable so that the dash heater lever met with resistance. I removed the heater valve and of course the cracked plastic bracket crumbled to bits. My remedy was to purchase thick 3/4 inch flexible pvc to replace the tattered flimsy worn out hose that connected the heater valve to the heater box. The flexible pvc is so sturdy, the healer valve doesn't need to be connected to anything to hold it into place. WIll have to monitor this over time but seems to be a good solution.

I live in LA so it never really gets too cold.

Thanks for your help. Turns out the reason the heating lever couldn't get to warm and fully open was because the heater valve connection to heater box was compromised. The plastic bracket was cracked all over, which caused the heater valve's position to shift further away from the heater box, which stretched the cable. Going to get a new hose, but the question is can the heater valve exist and be functional without the stability of being attached to the heater box? I may try some double sided velcro and plastic binders ties. Or begin a search for a heater box.

Neither. It is pretty hard to get to that cable when it is mounted in the car, but what you need to use is some kind of penetrant (not WD40) like "Kroil" or "PB Blaster." Again, it might not be a problem with the cable. If you can move it at all (e.g., can you return the level to the cold side?), it probably isn't. Thanks Chris. The lever moves fine to cold and back halfway to warm. So sounds like the valve itself is the issue and not the cable. I may remove the valve and see if i can manually open it as i'm still trying to find a reasonably priced used valve.

thanks a bunch. I'm watching this on ebay and have contacted a few on here for a used one.

I live in LA and i have noticed that my temp gauge never gets to the halfway position. It's usually at the 1/4 position or lower. Seems like the engine never gets really really hot. I only drive it typically for 25 minutes or less each trip. Last night I drove 40 minutes, it was in the 40's and the temperature gauge only went as high as the 1/4 position. Not sure if at this position there would be enough heat generated. In the position my lever is, do you think sufficient heat could be generated if the temp gauge is at the 1/4 position? Thinking there may be other issues as you've noted the intensity of your heat at the halfway gauge position.

Have you just now discovered this problem, or did your heater valve recently work properly? The heater valve is indeed on the passenger side of the car. Yours looks pretty corroded. It may be that the valve or cable is stuck and not allowing you to open the valve all of the way- this certainly is suggested by the fact that your control lever will not move all of the way to the "warm" position. On the other hand the problem could be the result of poor (or no) flow of coolant through the heater core, because of blockage in the core or no input (i.e., coolant hose missing or blocked). Have you tried to move the lever on the valve manually? I am suggesting that you reach your hand in there and try to move it toward the front of the car. Be careful, because if the valve is still mounted on the heater box by the plastic bracket, you could easily break that by applying too much pressure to the valve, particularly in the side-to-side direction. Another approach would be to remove the cable clamp from the valve. It is possible to do this while the heater box is in the car, but difficult. Dunno what size the nut on the cable clamp is... maybe 6mm? If you can loosen that clamp, you can determine whether the valve or the cable is jammed (or both). You might want to give this a read: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/images/stories/faqs/heater_refurb/heater_box_removal_and_refurbishment.pdf Would you recommend spraying WD40 or Carb Cleaner on the cable before trying to move it? Thanks.

pictures

pictures

the picture you attached in your 2nd post is the heater valve we're describing to you...if there is no cable attached, that could be the problem...there should, however, still be the remains of where the lever was that opens and closes the heater valve...and where the cable from the dash control attached thanks. no one else noted that my 2nd pic was the valve so i assumed it wasn't and kept looking. thanks a lot. the cable is indeed attached and the lever does move the cable. I've attached pictures of the lever. Not the halfway point is as far as it goes. Notice with the lever in this position the cable goes to 8 o'clock with the hose being at 10 o'clock. Is this as far as it's supposed to go, or is 10 o'clock the max with the lever inside the car slid all the way right to warm position?

Look at car on drivers and passenger side and there is no valve or cable. The only things coming out of or attached to firewall are wiper motor, heater fan and one hose picture above on passenger side and one hose on drivers side!! Looking at the cable under the dash it goes into the heating box.

LOL. Everyone kept saying the passenger side and I've been looking and seeing nothing. Started taking the console apart, eeeek. Thanks so much. I was just thinking from the last post the my wiper motor is on the driver side not the passenger side. was just gonna run back out when i saw your post. thanks!!!