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rdeeble

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Everything posted by rdeeble

  1. rdeeble
    Anyone got a 75-76 Drivers side door card to sell? Vinyl needs to be intact Tan preferred.
  2. rdeeble
    hey all Ive used this guy for transport from California to Seattle... he was totally great. Darrell Tindell (713) 857-4504 he regularly transport furniture for my brother out of long beach ca and he helped me out with a 2002 roof to seattle. Very cool guy
  3. rdeeble
    sure, I am currently traveling at not at home but would be happy to send you a pic when I return. The frames/springs have all been wire brushed and painted with rust conversion paint.
  4. rdeeble
    HI I have a completely refurbished frame but no horsehair or foam - it would need to be upholstered. Im in Seattle - I assume shipping would be costly due to size
  5. rdeeble
    Damn! sorry I missed this. Just bought a set from Rogerstii but they are bright white and look weird against the off-white headliner... Ill probably need to paint em
  6. rdeeble
    Mystery Solved! I read a long time ago somewhere on the faq (probably 2007) another person with a similar question and Max from Maximillion responded "call me - the cables change by vin number" - which i thought was odd. I did call Maximillion last week but the person who answered did not seem knowledgable on the topic and so it dead ended on on me. Steve I'll measure the lengths when i get home and PM you!
  7. rdeeble
    ok so it seems that prior to 75-76 seat cables had looped ends on their mechanism side. That makes sense... i can sleep at night now....
  8. rdeeble
    Ok we are on to something here. Thats the #4 short vertical cable but yours being a 74 connects via a loop to hook. That same cable in my 76 connects via S hooks on both sides. So perhaps this is a hardware variation on seats prior to 75-76. One other possibility that I haven't considered yet is if the hardware is different between driver and passenger seats? It dawns on me that I only stripped down one front seat so far and just assumed that the other would be identical. Perhaps I will find that hook cable on the other seat?
  9. rdeeble
    Yes that part number is 52101805955 which is NLA Also I asked Gerrad at Blunt tech why there were multiple part numbers for what appears like the same cable (#2 on the diagram) and he told me that the various numbers were in fact the same cable but with different ends (i.e. plain rope end, S hook end etc) so I am guessing that the loop cable is similar in that it had multiple numbers as well and that their were variations over the years of how the short vertical cable connected to the recline/tilt mechanism.
  10. rdeeble
    Its weird. I asked both ECS and Rogerstii and both stated this looped cable was standard. When I asked Roger (who sells it) why it wasn't shown on the realoem diagram - he stated that realoem removes the part picture on the diagram when the part goes NLA - somehow that didn't seem right to me... or maybe i misheard him. Anyone know more on that?
  11. rdeeble
    ECS Tuning's Site states: "This cable unlocks the backrest and allows for adjustment. If the cable has stretched or snapped, replace it with this Original BMW replacement from ECS Tuning to comfortably adjust your seat again." Still perplexed....
  12. rdeeble
    Hi john, I get the fix - but decided to completely replace all cables as my original cables are so badly rusted that I worry they will eventually break close to the hook ends. In researching new cables I found the one long one that you referenced here (#2). To my understanding it is one long cable that goes through the roller with S hooks at both ends and a length adjustment (like yours shows) at one end. Then a second cable (#4) that runs vertically down from the lever to the mechanism w/ S hooks at both ends. but I am still perplexed by this 52101805955 cable with an S hook at one end and a loop on the other...
  13. rdeeble
    Does anyone know where this cable is supposed to go? I am told by some parts venders that this is a required part for all 2002 standard seats. However I don't see any looped ended cable identified on the diagram and there isn't a cable like this on my existing seats. My 76 seats seem to have just two cables: one long one that goes through the roller (#2) and one short vertical cable (#4). Both of these cables have S ends (neither has a loop end).
  14. rdeeble
    Bingo! Thanks that makes a ton of sense.
  15. rdeeble
    Hey Faq can anyone walk me through this... I have 76 with standard seats that I am refurbishing to prepare for re-upholstery. I'm at the stage of dismantling the seats down to their frames to make mechanical repairs. I would like to replace all the rusted cables used to recline the seat backs (I call these S cables due to the end piece that looks like an S). From best I can tell my 76 seats had just two cables: a longer cable that went through the roller, and a short vertical cable that attached from the lever down to the seat latch. Looking up these parts on Realoem has confused me. There seems to be 4 cables here, two which I recognize (#2 & #4) and two (#8 & #3) that I don't recognize or understand what they are for - unless they relate to a prior year of seats? On Parts availability: The longer cable #2 appears to still be available new but I have yet to find #4 anywhere. Does anyone know of where I can find some? And just to make matters more mysterious Rogerstii's parts site features yet another S cable with a "looped end" alongside their listing of the #2 cable. Does anyone know what that is for (it does not appear in the diagram below)? thanks, robert
  16. rdeeble
    Hey Seattle - anyone need a radiator? this one came out of a working car but I am selling it as a core because, you know.... might as well take it to your radiator shop and do it right so you can feel confident in summer. $20 w/ pickup in Ballard/Crown Hill. 206-679-4521 rdeeble@mac.com
  17. rdeeble
    still available: 68 Radiator core 68 glove box (needs reflock - needs dash pad ) 68 passenger back seat panel (great condt) 68 driver back seat panel (torn vinyl at pocket)
  18. rdeeble
    Radio has sold
  19. rdeeble
    I Just bought new hood seals (Long one + the two sides). My old ones were still intact (although a little dried out). If anyone is without seals and would like to have these old ones I'd happy to mail em out to you for the cost of postage. -robert
  20. rdeeble
    Learned how to use my airbrush w/ touch up paint in the engine compartment...
  21. rdeeble
    Redtail - I posted the very same post probably 10 years ago and got much of the same responses you did. I followed them all and mine is still crack free. Here is the advice that really stood out for me... 1. Use a windshield sunscreen religiously. I had a super cheap generic one for years a but just splurged last week to get one designed for the 2002 by Covercraft. https://www.covercraft.com/us/en/product/carhartt-uvs100-custom-sunscreen.UVC 2. Use a UV protectant. I was recommended 303 UV Protectant Spray by faq members. Here is a link https://www.amazon.com/303-30313-CSR-Protectant-Plastic-Fiberglass/dp/B00KN0UOEE/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=303+vinyl+spray&qid=1623295609&sr=8-3 3. Garage it if you can! I don't have a garage - just a driveway - so I grabbed one of these https://www.shelterlogic.com/shop/garage-in-a-box-roundtopr enjoy!
  22. rdeeble
    sale pending
  23. rdeeble
    Sale pending
  24. rdeeble
    This is a housing for an 68 instrument cluster w/ the side window and chrome plated plastic. Given the chrome plating on the top this might have been one of the versions where the chrome face was painted black by BMW in 68 to meet US regulations (which prohibited reflected surfaces). There was some damage to the plastic that I repaired with a bonding agent. I updated the edge with some chrome paint. Happy to get this to anyone who is refurbishing an early silver dollar cluster and would like the original housing. $25 obo + ship
  25. rdeeble
    Refurbished instrument cluster - everything works except the clock. All bulbs replaced with new 3w bulbs. Speedometer, Odometer, Fuel and heat gauges all in working order. The plastic on housing and bevel rings are all in good order. The clock most likely can be fixed (they generally stopped working from a burnt out solder fuse) but you may want to send it out to a good speedometer shop (try North Hollywood Speedo). For next level aesthetics you could send the housing & bevels out to GCAR (https://gcartrim.com/) for actual re-chroming. $250 + Ship
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