oldguy

Twisted throttle shaft can. Bent throttle plate can.

that unisyn tool is virtually worthless.

When I fiddled with them I used the above tool at a minimum. There are fancier ones for motorcycles that work as well. That one above is $40 I think. Allows you to quantify your "difference" and not get into Ball is at x line.

Mine would sometimes by off by a few at idle but once the plate was opened slightly and the engine was at 1200rpm, the differences went away. I don't see how a compression test will elaborate on variances. A leak down might show a leaky intake valve or tight valve train clearance on one but short of a huge hole in the piston, they'll suck the same at idle with 50psi of compression and 120psi of compression.

quote from the article

"— a plastic engine support instead of one made of aluminum"

"a grille with louvers that automatically close when less cooling air is needed, to reduce drag"

really?? Lets save 3lbs by putting in a plastic motor mount and add 125lbs by putting in a 16 way power adjustable leather drivers seat.

I am an old guy and you couldn't hang with my group.

I know. I can't stand to be around know it all wanna be drag racer clowns.

"Not rocket science" Just take it to the lawnmower repair shop.

Nice, that's a big help.

not rocket science in that the motor is 40 years old. There's no magic timing chain fixtures, hard to cut heads, no piston to wall clearance subaru stuff, VR6 style offset fixtures for blocks etc. It's old easy peasy machine work. Simple simon stuff. If they can't do an 02 motor they shouldn't be in business.

Second.

no one on here actually measures anything coming back from a machine shop so if the guy looks competent, does the work on time, gives you back a piece of shiny metal and a good story about all that he did then you'll talk about what a wonderful craftsman he is, oblivious to whether it's actually good work.

So yes. you could probably take it to a local lawn mower repair shop and as long as it was shiny and running, you'd be happy and talk about what a deal you got although my local lawn mower shop bills at $75/hr so I don't know if there's a cost savings going there any more.

I just got off the phone with Don @ Eagle Machine up by Road Atlanta. They sound like they have it together on this 2002 machine work. Has any one else done buisness with them ?

Catman

there's nothing rocket science about an 02 engine.

The problem of high prices of parts is not at the dealer, but at the importer (BMW Australia). Dealers get shafted too. We experience the same silly situation in Canada. The irony is that I pay parts from Blunt or any US dealer much cheaper than a Canadian dealer pays at wholesale to BMW Canada.

Tom Bush BMW USA tried to charge me $62 for a radiator hose.

it was $20 including freight in the mail.

The only concession from them I've ever got is that they will match getbmwparts.com which is a bmw dealer but you have to ask if they will price match another dealer. If you just ask if they will price match, they'll tell you no.

Good luck.. after seeing S4's rear timing chain's, I'm convinced that audi motors are built by watch makers.

people have been using layered wood for ramps forever. It's heavy but quite sturdy. Won't fall over and colapse on him.

One other tip, from someone who's lived on the US's other border with a foreign country for 36 yrs. The Custom and Border Protection (CBP) personel have about the lowest group sense-of-humor you're likely ever to encounter.

I learned this the hard way, and quickly, when I first moved down here from Western Oregon.

They'll first ask you what you're bringing back from Canada. Then they'll want to know where, or far, you went into Canada. Next, where do you live. If you're passport didn't pop-up any problems they are then likely to say, "Wow, what a pretty car you have. What year is it?" At least that the scenario I encounter nearly every time I cross.

I've learned to just answer the questions with the fewest words possible, absolutely no attempts at jokes, and then wait for them to relax with me and compliment my car. Nearly always the same.

Bob Napier

funny everytime I get back from driving to alaksa, when I come into the states the border patrol guys like high five me.

I just removed the rear seat base from my '67 1600-2 and found a whole 7 cents, the 2 cent piece was from 1966, the year Australia changed over to decimal currency.

So how much have you found in your new old car? Hey or anything else of value.

Al from Oz

two bricks of powder...

car was from miami..

Bridgestone S03's were great for that.

t

+1

somewhere i've got a pic of my cluster doing 100...

it was raining..

One way to speed up the get my car finished process is call the insurance company and tell them, this guy took your money and has not fixed my car yet. Unless you have signed some "I'm using my own shop, I don't want your warranty" form, they have to warranty his sketch work.

All that guy was doing was going down the list of customers trying to find one that would let him float his payroll. Since your job only has $600 left on the ticket, there is no incentive to work on it. It will always get pushed back because he needs paying jobs because he's floating his payroll. It becomes a dead job. Lots of work required to finish it but he doesn't have the capital to commit guys over there to finish it.

Call him and demand he set a reasonable completion date. If he can't do that, begin filing fraud charges with your insurance company and your credit cards because he's never getting it done, no matter how nice you are.

There is absolutely no reason a body shop can't commit to a date. If he starts telling you how impossible that will be because he's a master craftsman and he's making it "just perfect". He's jerking you off. Tell him, even Michelangelo had to stick to a schedule. Make him fix the headliner as well, there is no reason you should be up there sanding on your own car doing labor for him. That's what your paying way to much money for. Make sure you explain how you are not paying for runs, drips, overspray or dented/scratched items and will not sign off on substandard work. Might as well do it right the first time because you will be making him do it a second time on his dime.

Don't let him wear you out for more money, make him finish and stick to a schedule. In the end, he'll probably try and turn that $600 left into $1200 due to "cost overruns". It's BS. Don't let him. If he scratched your strut tower bar, give him a link as to where to get a new one. Act like it's normal. If he tells you, I ain't fixing that, take it out of the final $600.

I've eyed this thing for two years. Never would spring for it. Finally did. Hf doesn't have anything like it. It won't warp panels as long as you don't hold it in the same place fOr like a minute

Listed as $380 from Snap-On.

Bob Napier

just incase you wanted it in black instead of $100 markup snapon red

http://www.autobodysupplies.com/MBXBlasterTools&Accessories.htm

Ok at some point, we all do a little "restoration" on our cars.

The evil rust bug rears it's head and we deal. The problem is usually our rust is hidden underneath undercoat or in a difficult to get at corner.

Blamo. The Snap On Crug Thug. Like god came down and blessed you with a paint removing light saber.

If you never seen this tool, it's like a wire wheel from hell. Unlike a normal wire wheel tool though, it doesn't shit bits of wire all over you or clog with bits of rubber undercoating.

I was working in the wheel well area by the door with the front quarter removed. I cleared a 6" wide by 10" pannel down to bare steel in about 25 seconds with minimal effort. All the 1969 undercoating is now just little specs on the floor. Easily sweepable. You could do the entire underside in an afternoon. A fenderwell in 15 minutes. I hate to sound like a salesman of the thing but it really does get into all the corners and bits that a wirewheel won't. Offically my new favorite tool in my box. For undercoat removal and rust removal it owns your soul. Made it to easy to do pannel repairs as you just hit it with the crug thug, weld it, grind it smooth, and then seal. What used to take hours in proper prep getting this crap off took 10 minutes. I'm in love.

looks to be a slide throttle FI motor used in an open wheeled styled car. They were also small time open cockpit sports racers that ran them as well.

He posted it in the classified section and was asking about 22k, probably what the reserve is if you're wondering.

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/t,374942/

Those pics make it look worse. The fact he left out the 8" hole in the headliner will anger some ebayers. That car needs more than a "dash and driverseat" interior wise.

A rusted up m10 turbo engine usually indicates water damage. Sure this thing didn't sink at one point? I imagine the kfish pump is in the same state as the body.

Again, why buy a ball of snakes that's going to take 20-30k to straighten out with a edgy title?

I'm secretly high bidder btw

that guy's got 15.5 on the hook and is reserve not met still?!?!

Reminds me of someone who will say. NADA book value on this car that needs restoration is 36k. I can't take less.

I don't know with those pics how much more the guy thinks he's going to get. Guy doesn't even have a US title and the only reason I can think for that is he doesn't want to pay the sales/import tax.

Take some pics of the interior and show me the red gauge pod, the boost gauge, and that the headliner and door panels aren't full of holes and you may get a real buyer.

There's a nice "like new" 74 turbo with 5spd on 2002ad for $55k.

If they think they can rebuild the motor, and straighten/paint the car for under 20k, they're mistaken. Just buy what you want instead of building a never going to be as good clone.

another cool car landed in my driveway, a 1960 190 sl.

need carb work and some other misc. work.

original carbs where replaced with 40's weber.

last week there was the 1600 cabrio in there...

I would rock that hardcore.. looks like fun...

stick a screwdriver in the breather port. Get a good grip and lift up. then take a razor blade and start working the area under it.

make sure the axle and tires are rated for 50% more than the combined weight of the trailer, car and any stuff you put in the car. most landscape trailers i have seen are not up to the task...only rated for lawn tractor level weight.

personnaly, i would get a dual axle car trailer. and two spare tires.

+1

best advice in the thread..

Bring two spares and you won't need them. Bring no spares and you'll have two flats.

Load range D or E tires for your trailer only. None of that cheap sissy stuff from walmart. Cheap trailer tires are the downfall of any trip.

Ishihara looks cool.

Have used them in M10's and extensively in nissans. Top quality product. Would use them again.

that's the right specs and bolts for them. lucky find man. Yeah should be no reason not to use them especially since they're sized and recon'd by carillo.

I don't see carrillo laser engraved on them.

Sure you didn't get "carrillo like" rods?

http://www.maxspeedingrods.com/

those come to mind which is the price he charges.

needless, if they're carrillo's they should have a custom bolt in them, they do not use ARP2000 or ARP L19 bolts, they use carrillo brand fasteners.

Nice find if they're genuine. If not they'll still work for your motor, the cheapie manley's have worked just as well as the expensive arrows rods. I'm starting to think the companies all buy them from the same place and brand them differently.