oldguy

I've wraped the speedo around to touch the back side of the needle...on I-95 at 3am.. twas before we had GPS iPhone shenanigans though.

what's "inspection?" - in FL

someone recut the seats with a 3 angle valve cutter and made the margins to narrow. There's not enough width between the seat and the valve to properly transfer heat out of it and the valve is just erroding away.

diesel kfish type pumps and gas kfish pumps are completely different. A diesel pump runs at about 1200-1700psi. A gas one makes 450-500psi on a good day.

a shop that grinds flywheels waits until they have 5 or six of them to do and then puts the shop monkey on them. that's how it is in the real world. Many machine shops actually send it all to one guy in town who does pickup and drop off runs.

if I was bringing a shop a hard to find expensive 60's ferrari flywheel with specific specs, I'd bring them the specs with it so it can get done correctly instead of relying on their initiative to dig for 50 year old data.

So from the recomendations I got I took the flywheel to a local shop and had them resurface it...

There is no longer a "step" in it and it's been ground completly smooth. The shop that did it couldnt tell me how much surface they took off because the tech was no longer there for the day. Im hoping that it will still work even without the "step" in it. Please tell me I dont have to by a new flywheel now because they screwed it up!

They owe you a flywheel. Probably an honest mistake by a younger tech, but if you told them what car the flywheel is from, they can look up the spec. Even the tiniest shops that do flywheel work have thick binders full of flywheel info. Some even have access to the internet.

Take it back, talk to the owner and the tech that did the work. Be a good learning experience for all involved. Do you take it to a mechanic who advertised flywheel resurfacing, or did you go to a true machine shop?

Then again, it might be fine for 100K plus on a DD. I'd just hate waking up each day wondering if I'm gonna have to yank the tranny next weekend because I gave my machinist a pass.

HTH

N

this is why shops are no longer grinding flywheels. you bring in some random ass old bmw flywheel, don't really give them any specs on it. Expect that they will look up all the information. find it, pull the dowel pins, precision grind it and in a step and take your $40. Now some how they owe you a flywheel because they didn't do it right when you didn't bring in any of the info for them to. All the step is for is to engage some pressure plate tension. Sure running one without a step will result in less holding capacity of the clutch ONLY once the clutch disc is worn out. It's not like the guy is going to put another 200k on his 02. Millions of race flywheels come without a step. Life goes on.

The reason he didn't know how much he took off is because flywheel grinders do not have dial indicators on them. You just grind until it's shiny and then measure pre grind and post grind.

I need two of them... and I need em by tonight!!

the idea of those bars is to limit torsional twist in the chassis. Not required for a legal cage.

Sure, just off hand... 2002 fuel tank filler neck rubber thing (cracking after 1 year, about to fall apart, very thin rubber), driver side mirror wobbly right out of the box, badges de-laminate within years, E3 arm rest chrome cap (chrome peeled off within 1/2 a year! junkyard ones still look OK)

new roundels for my e39 are a replace once a year on the front. they're just made of chrome plastic that peels in one florida summer.

Buy some 4- cylinder Honda Accord stuff off ebay.

Then use Rabbit inserts.

it's cheap, and will lower your car.

t

Yeah I came up with this. This was before ireland and GC would sell you the bits separately. The honda kit ran the right spring rates for the 02 application but there are certainly better options now.

Unless you have experience on a flow bench and have one, don't port your own heads. Just shine them up and make yourself feel happy doing like a very minor adjustments. Porting them isn't easy. Vizards book is a good start but you'll learn alot on your first five heads.

I want to have my friend plumb in a turbo in my 2002. What is the hot ticket? I've searched the threads but can't really find much info on what people are using when putting them in?

Thanks!

gt3076r with a .64ar

yes coming from florida.. this little tropical storm/hurricane wussy thing wouldn't even trigger a real alarm...

lets see how prepared the north is...

"rich people doing rich people things" - comment sums it up.

great gift, just unrealistic for us realistic folks...

you are right... you have to be "realistic" to not make millions...

"rich people doing rich people things" - comment sums it up.

great gift, just unrealistic for us realistic folks...

you are right... you have to be "realistic" to not make millions...

That's hawt!!! +2 internets for you!

betcha $10 that if it poked a hole in the rim like that, the caliper is also bent and will require replacement.

What diesel earth- mover's it from, anyway?

It's on a 1.5 Megawatt generator's V16 Caterpillar diesel. The engine and generator are about the size of an 02, not to mention the muffler, which dwarfs my refrigerator.

We've done a couple of of locomotives for bombardier and they are HUGE. A 44oz big gulp will fit in the compressor outlet.

it's worn ring lands..

old pistons..

Lemme explain. A longer rod allows for a slowed rate of rod to piston angle when the piston reaches the top. IE.

A piston with a 2" rod vs a piston with a 6" rod. The 2" one in relation to crankshaft angle degrees, push the piston to the top and abruptly jerk it right back down. The 6" rod has a much longer transition from going up to going down and thus does not jerk as hard on the rod. Resulting in less overall piston acceleration and less wear. This is important due to the relatively long stroke of the m10 motor compared to say a honda.

Here are all the differences.

http://www.e30m3project.com/e30m3performance/tech_articles/engine-tech/rod-ratio/index.htm

http://www.rustpuppy.org/rodstudy.htm

the mx5 rear coil overs were a neat idea but he still doesn't get it. Build a $20k drift car and then try and use a stock motor.

Buy used motor. Doesn't last season.

Buy new (used) motor. Don't upgrade important things. Send rod through block

Buy new (used) motor. Don't upgrade important things. Melt two pistons.

After all the travel, entry fee's, track time, tires, waste all that money to show up and dnf.

02robert

I am interested in a set of them and camshaft, you seem to be much further along than I am.

I would like to discuss some things with you if possible. Please email me at khengineering@gmail.com

Thanks

Kris

the headers in the wheel well give the v8 away in the first series of pics

There is no point in trying to diagnose issues such as lose of power and WOT issues if you don't have them synchronized. People will get into the voodoo of these carbs and start going for all sorts of things like, wires pulling due to engines twisting on mounts and all sorts of crap that doesn't happen. Hopes and dreams stuff.

The fact the issue comes at high G's and your car breaks up, I'm going to just go on the record and say, some where it's not getting fuel and the reason the plugs look lean is due to the fact that the front carb is furthest from the fuel supply and is not receiving enough petrol. The back is hogging the lions share.

Here are some issues. You're trying to race with a street car ignition system. Red coil vs blue coil etc. Throw it out. Get a real coil, real ignition pickup and go or if it wasn't a problem before with the tii motor then it shouldn't be a problem now and quit throwing so many variables in there. When people start changing parts at random, more issues happen.

If you can't time your car. Install a piston stop. Degree it and mark TDC with yellow paint marker and a chisel on the front crank in relation to a pointer. You're not johny homebrew, no one uses the ball on the flywheel.

Fuel pump/fuel pressure. You do not need a holly red pump to feed a set of DCOE's. A tiny self regulating electric pump will work just fine. If you want something more robust, walbro makes a series of industrial/marine self regulating fuel pumps. $120 gets you the most expensive that will flow 35GPH which is more than enough for your application. There's no need to re-invent the wheel and make things more complicated than they are. Incase you're wondering, you check fuel pressure at the carbs, not before the regulator.

Also fuel cell. If your racing, then you've got a fuel cell. A proper fuel setup for a race motor with carbs should be like this.

Fuel cell to y pipe. Y pipe to two independent raycor fuel filters. Each filter then feeds it's own fuel pump. Pump 1 is what you normally run on and pump 2 is a backup to switch to. Those pumps then feed into a y fitting and then go upto the motor. There is no need for additional fuel filters, inline filters or regulators. That's as simple as it gets. Now with todays modern gasohol, it would not be surprising if you've either got loose fuel foam or degrading fuel foam. If you had 5 gallons of fuel, g loading is not an issue. These motors are not eating gas but lightly sipping it. This isn't a 700hp v8 gt1 car. Open up your cell, check that your foam is secure and is not flaking off in bits.

Sort your fuel system and fuel pump. Measure your fuel pressure. Once you've got that stabilized and your carbs synced. Then work on your g-load issue. Right now you've got to many variables.

Is the loss of power at part or wide open throttle in the corners ?An air box will fix the rear carb getting less air. The floats and pin need to have a precision fit no slop or they can bind and must not be bent out of shape. I think your idle jet seems lean for a race car . A 4.5 axillary vent

would probably work better too. On the sync. you should set the two low

carbs to the one high cylinder. Then if you want to drill a small hole in the one low cylinder like 0.5mm or less and slowly in large till is right. that only

if you want it perfect at idle and is not part of your problem. On the new

dcoe there is a air bypass but with the old carbs that's how its done.

Seriously. He's having high RPM issues and Syncro Issues and you pick that his idle jet "looks lean". DCOE's with trumpets do not have rear carb less air issues. It's never been a problem in an 02 engine bay.

Yes he should first try and find a .020" drill bit and then drill aluminum with it.

Please tell us at what RPM should you drive a bit that small and the 100% chance it will break trying to drill cast aluminum. A dremil will not turn it fast enough.