oldguy

Many of my friends who run megasquirt...  and I don't know why....    do a biannual tune..  once in the summer...  once in the winter...  almost as if it can't compensate for the difference in air temps..   like 75% of my friends that run MS do it..  wouldn't surprise me if you're due for a tinkering.

You say you can CNC grind cam shafts..    would it be possible if I contact you for a camshaft for a different motor?

a webcast or a youtube video would be nice

As best I can tell, it's a custom hand fabricated supper cool everything with a perfectly stock 5.0 mustang motor.  On a good day it might make 240hp with 280 torque which isn't anything to laugh at but it's still pretty low for the coinage spent.  I'm pretty sure people have made 250HP cheaper without a solid rear axle.

Many people utilize loctite on them to solve this but I've found that aviation form-a-gasket is the best thing for this job.  A big blob on the end of the stud and thread it into the head.  Never leaks

http://www.permatex.com/products/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex--aviation-form-a-gasket--no--3-sealant-liquid-detail

I'll take one..  

Saw a super nice white 2002 this weekend go through maggie valley,nc

Yeah the adjustment on those arms is out and your cam timing could be off.  That motor sure shakes a lot.  recheck both.

with a 304 it will spin over fine.  You'll need a digital MSD box to retard the ignition timing at starting speeds if you've got a locked distributor.

Couple questions...

Thinking of getting some of my spare engine parts (mostly heads) hot tanked to store nice and clean. Is there any solvent in the process or is it just hot, dirty water that sprays on the parts until clean?

I wash the outside of my engine with simple green and a pressure washer. Is it possible to clean the inside of any engine parts this way as long as I lubed it up with some good oil/grease afterwards to prevent any rust forming? Or in other words, can I soak a complete cylinder head in a tub of simple green or equivalent, and then spray it down with some WD40, motorcycle chain wax, or equivalent afterwards? I know I can clean parts with Brake Cleaner, however, those spray cans can add up.....

TIA

no one really uses "hot tanks" any more. They are enviromentally taboo.

Spray wash cabinets are the norm. For cast iron parts they use an acid cleaner heated upto like 150f then blasted on.

For aluminum they use an industrial detergent. Think of them like oversized dishwashers.

guy found where all the profit was in the job real quickly..

fully restored means a little something different to everyone.. it's quite obvious though that the guy picked it up from the paint shop and threw it on ebay without checking fitment. The repairs are amateur at best. Paint not so bad. nice for a craigslist paint job

I've yet to go through a wheel bearing running 15x8 et0 on hoosier R comps.

now granted they need to be serviced every now and again but there's little physical evidence that the stock strut is ineffective

I love how it says at the end that the car and the garage are insured against this.

If the cops write down it was performing an "exhibition of speed" then you might as well kiss both of those coverages goodbye.

Yep. That will not hold. It's also not from you just polishing up that spot either.

I would get another rear seal from a different gasket brand than that one. More likely a defective rear seal than a defective carrier unless you've never had a seal in that carrier before or the previous seal spun and ripped out.

Chrome is the app

if it hadn't been repeated... blunt gets my $

Whatever the clearance is, it will be less at 7000 rpm. error on the fat side or find fan marks in your radiator.

2,500 rpm only if you have a tii

DISTRIBUTOR!

If you set a tii distributor at 1500, it'll be too advanced at 2500.

And the whole curve will be too far advanced, too.

The mechanical- only curve has more advance in the weights, since there

is no vacuum advance to add its two cents and 15 degrees.

Now, having said that, you'll probably find that the DCOE's might not like

quite as much advance as the tii did, simply because the tii did such a good

job at fuel distribution. But you might end up pulling 2-4 degrees at most.

The real number I can give you is 36 degrees of total advance at

4500+

Yep, wound way out. That was a totally safe number with any engine

combination I put together under 12:1 compression.

Others have very similar numbers to match.

hth.

t

Confirm on 36* total. +-2*

Since no one actually "recurves" their distributors any more or adjusts the weights on the springs, what a tii dist did in 1970 probably ain't what it's doing now. At worst, set total advance, and see what it is at idle and find something that works in between. Or spin your dist up on a recurve machine and let someone map it and set it.

ireland engineering sells those

Utilizing either the 8.3:1 or the 9.5:1 stock pistons, neither should have any clearance issues with a little 292 regrind like that.

if it's not shrick (which it will say "dr. schrick" on the casting) it's probably a 292 regrind as most regrinds make up for a lack of lift with duration.

you have the limited edition yamaha race camshaft that everyones been looking for.

90% of all filters will blow at 175psi..

why you were at 175psi is probably a better question. i highly doubt your oilfilter caused $2000 in failure..

"real" alpina is hard to describe. unlike the current alpina procedure which is to take possession of your new bmw once it leaves the factory and modify it, the original alpina was a set of parts you could order and install that would not void the warranty and increase it's sportiness. Especially early cars. I'm not aware of "vin plates" on any alpina. most of the time you ordered a package. Such as an A1-4 engine, gearbox, suspension, flares, etc. A 3 gauge pod dash add-on is an option but that's not to say they've never been made since. The value is usually determined by if they have any papers documenting the alpina purchase and how many packages they have. IE is it an A1 motor only? or is it an A4 with the ITB's and FI, high compression pistons, 5 spd CR box, inverted alpina shocks in the back with upgraded alpina brakes. The value of those two cars is a mile apart.

Most alpina cars are pieces of alpina parts put together and that's just how they were done.

with a redline of 2800RPM... remember your gearing will be off. Even with a 320i 5spd OD and a 3.64 rear, your going to have a WOT redline topspeed of like 75-80mph. You really need to see if MB geared that motor with the tranny or the rear end. Most car diesels have a low gear rear like a 2.73

Yep, that is the same video I found. I just like the idea of no corrosion and lifetime use. The only concern I have is if you do have emergency and need some coolant. You are not supposed to mix it with water.

John

"not supposed to" = can not or it turns to jelly.

Modern bmw owners have been using it to prevent the modern fragile bmw cooling systems with their plasticy bits, from breaking. It's hit or miss. It either cures everything or causes overheating. If you show upto a track day with it in there, they will turn you away as any spill of it on the track creates a slick spot thats hard to get up.

my thought process has always been just eliminate the plastic but some people only want OEM. Will it fix anything on an 02 or help it run cooler? Nope.