oldguy

4 hours ago, dang said:

 

I can appreciate the heads-up about this guy and how he operates but this story doesn't exactly sound like you got ripped off.  Unless everyone called to get their money back it sounds like you made some extra sales.

 

He used the customers card to order 2 of everything.  Customer states he was double billed to visa.  Visa hits ireland for the difference.  Shows up ireland eng on customers bill.  Customer knows what was ordered and how much it was roughly just by going to the website.  

spam...  those are referral links...

interested in the rear spoiler..  price shipped to 32003...

Does anyone have a "rally suspension setup" that they would recommend?  Currently the car as Bilstein sports with 350lb/in springs and coil overs on it with GC camber plates.   

I need a suspension setup for gravel road / mud / potholes.  I was thinking of running 13x6 wheels but I'm having a hard time finding tires.  I can find a lot of UTV tires that fit but not sure if they would handle the load. 

Yeah I'd go with a dead cylinder but I'd be more incline to think the adjuster came loose on the exhaust rocker.  Sounds like it's poping back through the intake.  Doesn't sound like rod knock or piston slap if that makes you feel better.  I'm going to guess #3 if we're playing for the trifecta.

5 hours ago, Healey3000 said:

to see if there's a simple and elegant way of designing a cam position sensor.

 

 

If I ran a cam position sensor on the car, you could machine the back of the cam with a slot drive and certainly machine a hole in the back of the dist cover.  If you have access to machinery that can do that, you can easily make a cam position hub off the 4 bolts holding the cam gear to the cam and put one into the upper valve cover.  Utilizing a cam position sensor in the distributor is a no no.  To much backlash.  Someone also makes a plug for the dist housing hole to seal it.  If you need a cam position sensor, I imagine you're going coil on plug ignition.

Well, one goes to your oil pressure sender or idiot light sender.  Other if for lubrication of the distributor gear/camshalf gear interface.  I'm not sure you're fixing a problem that exists.

If you take a metal pick and start digging on the corrosion, you'll find it goes deeper than you think.  when fixing that, you take a die grinder and get it back to bare uncorroded aluminum, then weld in that area.  Then when surfaced you surface the weld into the head, it will be barely visible and not leak.   

you won't get 11.9:1 to run on pump gas.  That setup is designed for at least 105.  Raised floor headers would be a problem as well..  you can also tell because engine is running 38 degrees of advance.  That thing will sound like a raped ape but not on street gas.

let me be the bad guy and suggest pulling it as much as you can...  then sanding the area..  skimming it with red bondo filler carefully and then using the dot brush method and touch up paint...  bet once it's wetsanded and buffed you couldn't see it unless you looked for it...  or drop the headliner and fix it properly..   still gonna look funky any way you try...

12 hours ago, 69NEWCLASSNH said:

He was on the forum way back as "Terrance" buying up everything

I kinda feel bad in a way because I've sold him parts and stuff before...  

On 4/20/2017 at 3:37 PM, 02hobiedave said:

oldguy did you already order with me? I have one left for shipment.

dave

 

Yes and already received.

I've seen a lot of wrist pins and don't think I've ever seen a worn out wrist pin.   More than likely if anything is worn out, it is the bronze bushing in the connecting rod.

got another one..  I'll take one...

Last time I head a head do this.  There were bent valves.  Perform a leakdown.  If no bent valves then you do this.  Remove valve cover and front cover.  Mark cam gear to chain in one spot.  Remove tensioner.  Unbolt cam gear making sure not to drop cam gear into front cover or loosing tension on chain to bottom gear.  Use the paint mark as a reference to move it the one tooth.  Put the 4 bolts back in.  Rotate engine with upper front cover off to verify that timing is correct. 

Lemme clear something up.   Std  First over  Second Over.  

In America.  STD is the factory hole size.  First over is sometimes called "Twenties".  or 0.020" over which is 0.5mm.  Second over is "forties" or 0.040" or 1mm over. (Some engines like Small block chevys etc will have 0.060 and 0.080" bores as well)

Europe has this love affair with tiny oversizes.  Sometimes (depends on engines and we are leaving air-cooled stuff out of this since that just messes everything up)  First oversize is 0.010" or 0.25mm.  Second oversize 0.020" or 0.5mm and then sometimes they will do a third oversize of 0.040" or 1mm.   Other times they will stick to the traditional norms of twenties and forties.  It varies by engine.  

To an American machinist, they will look at you like you've lost your ever loving mind if you show up with .010" pistons.  Here's the reason.  Your hole is out of spec and IIRC the out of spec on an 02 cylinder is like 0.003" too big.  So you've got to understand the limitations of the equipment.  A dial bore gauge measures diameter across the bore but not in reference to the centerline of the hole.  It's just the distance across the hole.  The wear in the bore is usually on one side.  The thrust side.  So a prudent machinist will locate off the bottom of the cylinder, where ring travel is minimal and there is little wear.  Now boring a hole 0.010"  (first oversize) in some engines goes like this.  Set the machine up for 0.008" bore which is really only .004" off each side of the hole.  Then you are going to hone out the last 0.002" of the bore to achieve a proper surface finish.  Now if everything is great then yes, first oversize would work but in reality, the engines don't have sealing problems until .004-0.005" wear is in the bore.  By that point, the hole won't clean up at 0.010" over.  As much as people feel that the least off is the best, the reality is that most blocks will require at least 0.020".  What ends up happening is 3 of the 4 holes clean up but one has an eyebrow looking wear spot at the top of the rings that won't clean up and then you do the job all over again.  Most customers don't want to pay twice and most machinists are not working for free.  So either buy the size he says will work or be prepared to loose it all.  You can always sleeve a block to standard, that is where you cut out like 0.125" out of the block, press in a new cast iron liner, and then bore it back out to standard.  Obviously expensive and time-consuming.  I know the local shop here charges $80 a hole + the sleeve which is around $30-40.  A sleeved block will need to be surfaced as well.  It's possible to do it without but you need a very skilled hand and it still won't be as nice of a job.  

Now, back when these pistons were made, there were two ways of clearance.  The clearance was in the piston or in the hole.  A piston has about a 0.002-0.003" clearance between the bore and the piston.  This is for expansion. Aluminum piston vs cast iron block.  So a Mahle piston is like 88.97 (stamped on top).  This indicates to the machinist that the clearance is in the piston.  Not in the hole.  Sometimes piston manufacturers made a 90mm piston for a bore that was 90mm.  So the machinist had to make the clearance between the two and measure it out.  So 90mm = 3.5433"  So if you've got a 90mm piston that needs 0.002" clearance then you need a 3.545-3.546" hole.  This is how sizing pistons is done, clearance is factored in, and the thought into a proper overbore size.

On 3/23/2017 at 11:03 AM, Naz said:

If you need a set of rings i have an extra set for 89.97 pistons that I don't need. Although, you should get the rings with the pistons.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Are you sure they are for a 90mm piston?  A 1mm oversize?  or are they for stock?  If they are for 1mm oversize, I will take them.

Got em here...   um..   so here's what came in the mail....A nicely cast and machined piston.  On just checking it with a dial caliper, there are some good things and bad things. 

Good Things,

It uses a 02 ring package.  

Top ring thickness = 1.75mm 

2nd ring thickness = 2mm 

oil ring thickness = 4mm

Are these 9.5:1 euro TII pistons?   Ehhh  Yeah kinda

Ok per the old pat allen reference sheet.  it should be a 6.8mm dome.  These QSC pistons are 7.2mm domes.  So I'm not really crying at that stat.  Lil Extra dome.  lil Extra CR. Not much but you can always remove dome, never get it back.  

The Meh things

Pin to deck height.  

If you use the "A" value in the scanned book drawing then you should be at 1.240" for TI cars.  These pistons are 1.251" pin to deck.  So again.  more CR, will the protrusion be a problem?  Not sure.  I think if everything isn't surfaced a lot, then these will be great but if your block and head are decked you might end up with protrusion problems.  I checked small bathtub and flat top and those are around 1.231".  

The bad things

The castings look great on most of them.  Some of the casting lines are not deburred.  There is plenty of evidence that a little china man had a hand whizz wheel and cleaned these up.  There is a buildup of extra aluminum on one wrist pin boss that I'll need to clean up with a file.  Ugly yes. Structural, No.  There still needs to be deburred and cleaned up.  I think you could spend 10 mins on each piston, you could run them.  I'll run them.  I did get atleast 3-4 small flakes of aluminum casting flash / metal splinter type things off the pistons.  

I'll put up a video comparing them to mahle's side by side

I just bought a set off the guy on ebay.  Curious what I'll get in the mail.  The factory mahle pistons are no rocket science pistons and the pelican forum is talking about cylinder jugs not pistons.  He accepted my "offer" of $125..  for 4 pistons that's not bad, unless they're junk...

it means the piston is 84.98mm in size for an 85mm hole

The SP003 stuff is about casting runs and is irrelevant to size.

Thank you for the replies.

Nice video Mintgrun. In this example the cam manufacturer provided the defining lift measurement, .05". (Actually, if I understood what he was doing correctly, the 0.05" was the cam lift not the valve lift. The corresponding valve lift with that rocker arm was 0.05" X 1.52 = .076".)

It would be nice to know what Schrick used on the M10 cams. I have emailed tuning@schrick.com asking for this information. If I receive a reply I will post it.

Jim

Rocker arm ratio actually changes through the rotation of the engine to be precise.  The center of the lash pad isn't always the point of contact.  Duration is usually measured after a certain amonut of lift.  Usually enough to take up the slack in the system or at .050 because that's the amount required to compress the hydraulic tappets or lifters.  On engines like ours, duration is usually measured at the factory lash or no lash.  The importance of schrick cams vs stock cams is the machine required to produce.  You've got to understand the cam is not a symetrical profile.  Schrick cams utilize more agressive ramp profiles which result in better valve train acceleration at high rpm with better flow profiles.

Alpina gauge cluster is boop... 

http://www.alpinabmw2002.com/2011/03/alpina-gauges.html

head bolts prevent removal of shafts...   impossible to do with head on motor..  have you tried loctite red?

I've experienced endless problems with people hell bent and determined to utilize a total seal gapless top and gapless second only because leakdown numbers win races to encounter oil control/seating issues because the gasses get between the two rings and flutter the second and the angle cut in the second does not allow proper oil control as in a conventional napier style or torsional style ring thus solving a problem that does not exist. 

The basic m10 ring package with a moly top.  cast second and practically any style oil control ring will break in and seal acceptably on almost any hone surface unless you've broken out some exotic stone for like nicasil line bores.  The basic M10 ring package does not need to be examined and replaced unless you're building a specialized race motor.

• , gapless rings

found your problem

There is no HP in an m10 to be gained by utilizing these and they require specific cylinder wall roughnesses.  This is especially true if you're utilizing a gapless second ring.  If so throw it away and reinstall the piston with a plain jane cast iron ring.  your problems will be solved.