M3M3

a full tank of pump gas and stabil is all that is needed for long or short term storage.  never had an issue with any of my cars, motorcycles, generators, lawn mowers or snowblower doing this.

unless you really enjoy paying $10 a gallon for race gas.

the Cristine McVie channel was playing in the shop all day yesterday.

the one on the right is a connector.

the ones in the left circle are the switches on the handbrake and brake fluid res cap.

14 hours ago, Son of Marty said:

The low mount for the seatbelt has proven to be a back breaker in a frontal collision. The mount below shoulder height pulls down on your back while the deceleration pulls your body forward with twisting motion.  

absolutely correct.  this also applies for folks that put those 4pt harnesses in cars and anchor the shoulder straps to the rear seat belt points or worse the floor.   shoulder strap anchor points must be at or slightly above shoulder height.

and don't anchor shoulder belts to the thin sheet metal on the rear deck either....

Make your own.  Really simple.....

Need the wheel covers on.... Looks unfinished without them.

So how were the tires?

sawzall or plasma cutter?  😎 

cutting up dead 2002's is fun...and educational.  scary the lack of structure in these cars that you don't see until you cut some cross sections.

separate LSD additive is NOT needed in an LSD if the oil you use already has friction modifier in it.  like redline 75w90.  the more friction modifier you use in an LSD, the less "limited" the slip is.  more is NOT better.  just use the right oil up front and do not add additives. 

race oils like redline Shockproof have less friction modifier than their regular gear oils for more clutch lockup.  redline oils with "NS" in the name have no modifier.

new LSD's need to be broken in.  after installation the car should be driven figure 8's to get the clutch disks burnished in and the oil with modifier spread around.  "groaning" of a new diff is normal before break in.

moral here...do not just dump LSD additive in your diff.

leave both inner and outer engine mount nuts loose until engine is in the car and settles.  locite and tq the metal mount bracket to the engine before the engine goes in.

no need to pour water through it.  just look at it.  you can see the spring open the valve as it gets warm.  look at it closed first, then you can tell the change.  simple.

someone say rust?

49 minutes ago, stephers said:

You need a nyloc nut or at the very least a double nut set up. A single nut like that will work loose unless you blue loctite it

A number of things to do to keep it tight.

 

Thanks, Rick

this.

gotta have nyloc or double nut.

On 10/30/2022 at 4:19 PM, Lorin said:

I bought a few cans of ATE blue a while back that I’m working through on the cars, mostly. 
 

Another of my favorites that I use in motorcycles is  Motul 5.1 , that stuff is great. 

 

 

LOL.... that must have been a LONG while back.

On 10/30/2022 at 10:26 AM, otisdog said:

Had no effect on my E36 M3 reservoir over a long period of time.

must be age of reservoir..my 02 reservoir was stained, as was the plastic one in my 94 E36 race car.

👍

ATE blue was banned in the entire US a decade ago. Not because of toxicity, because it was feared dumb users would mistake it for blue washer fluid and put it in the wrong reservoir...

Yes, ATE blue permanently stains plastic reservoirs.

DOT 3&4 are interchangeable.  Main difference is the higher boiling points of DOT 4.  

Yes it is.  PayPal and your conus shipping address and I can get it out to you tomorrow. 🙂

Marshall

C'était un rendez-vous - Wikipedia

EN.M.WIKIPEDIA.ORG

https://youtu.be/YeEeyOCJ1OA

sold!

bump

bump and price drop!

bump

"sold"!

FREE

glass set, no windshield.  looks like it has the light tint.  includes rear, side, quarter and vent glass.  vent window frames and quarter window latches included.

will not separate, will not ship.  ya gotta come pick it up in Alexandria, VA.  its FREE.

if not claimed, it is going to the dump.

Long gone....