M3M3

this sounds like a bad ticktock challenge.  

E10 is at type of ethanol laced fuel......

4 hours ago, chargin said:

Fiberglass has its application but this Carbon kit is next level, I couldn’t imagine using it on a track car nor could I imagine using racing fiberglass on my street car 

 

isn't that kind of bass ackwards?

FG or CF could be  made in the same mould to the same quality level.

once painted, you can't tell the difference.  FG perfect for street car.  CF is really pointless on a street car. well, except for C&C bragging.

FG is cheaper if you, ah, have to fix it a lot, but, for full tilt race car where every ounce saved is more speed, CF is the way to go.

If you need parts, I have a full harness for sale in the for sale section....

what mike said.....

you put sport springs on the car.  the ride is going to be much stiffer than anything stockish.  especially if you really had stock springs and dead shocks on the car.   the stiffer ride is why it appears to drive better...

and....adjusting koni S/A's is not going to make the ride any better.  koni S/A's are only adjustable in rebound, not compression.  compression stiffness is what makes the shock feel "stiff".

We just swapped a non airbag mtech1 onto jgerock's airbag 91 318iS.   Both fine splines.  All bmw's after 84ish have fine splines.  

in continuing research, it appears the hub may be the "rare" tall E30/E24/E28 hub.  originally for the airbag cars to allow mounting a wheel at proper distance from turn signal stalks.  NLA.

I ended up with this steering hub, but have no idea what car it might fit.  It came on a steering wheel with an "M" horn button, so believe it to be for a BMW. pretty sure it is not for a 2002.   MOMO with only ID numbers on it being "C 2007".  fine splines,  turn signal tab,  horn contact ring and about 3.5in tall.   thought it might be for an E30, but it is about an inch taller than the hub on my E30.  anyone recognize what it may go to?  E28?   Have done some googling on the numbers and an image, but have not found a positive ID.

Turner is also part of the evil ECS Empire.

FCP is first place I look for stuff. 

Pelican/Turner/ECS are last resort in an emergency.  I have been burned too many times by the empire.

Not surprised.  Pelican is part of the evil "ECS Empire".  Run away.

On 6/6/2022 at 4:02 AM, quant said:

I've really enjoyed the Pagid RSH (H for historic, the light blue pads) on my Alfa Giulia, and am considering to use them again for the front calipers; perhaps combined with Ferodo rear shoes.

 

Anybody experience with these?  How do they compare vs. the Porterfields R4S in terms of braking performance, cold braking, heat resistance, noise (squealing), dust ?

RSH is a track pad.  R4S is not.  I would not use track pads on street car.

On 6/6/2022 at 4:12 AM, uai said:

Go for Pagid.
I've just been there. I have had the pagid RSH42 in my car and was very satisfied with them. Then I had a set of Porterfields and am really disappointed when comparing them to the pagid. I dumped the porterfields after one Trackday and went back to RSH42.
Pedal feel, bite and temperature is much better with Pagid. The Porterfields got extremely hot - burned my dust boots - a problem I never had with the Pagid. One thing to consider is however - the RSH42 is not street legal in Germany and sometimes squeals a bit.

We have been recommending the porterfield R4S pads on this thread.  Is that the pad you dumped due to track performance?  If so, well, it is NOT a track pad.   The R4 (no S) is a track pad.  The pagid rsh42 you liked on track is a track pad.  You appear to be comparing apples and oranges.

Thread is about pads for street use.   Track pads are a whole different discussion....

For street, auto-x, and first timers on track you can't beat the R4S.

less about a technical solution than the "frequent bumpers" being considerate of others.....

you can get new from any of the major bolt chains.   cheap.

7 hours ago, tech71 said:

It also appears that it wouldn't be too difficult to support the rear of the bracket/remove flex with a couple of tabs(easily fabricated) and four bolts ?

LOL...and in doing so...you replicate the right way to do it with brackets and don't need the u-bracket....

the stock mounting points were designed to take a load straight down.  they were NOT designed to support the twisting load the U-bracket places on them.  they flex under that load allowing the back of the trans to sag/bounce resulting the guibo being misaligned.

and....bolting the u-bracket to the stock mountings assumes the mounting surface is level...and at the right height for a 245 trans.   both are very bad assumptions.  BMW did not make them perfectly level and the rear mount point for a 245 is not the same height as for the 4spd trans.

just do it right, not the easy way out.  bolt/weld new brackets to the tunnel.  AFTER installing the trans, aligning the DS and marking where the brackets should be placed.  do not bolt them to the tunnel using any measurements you read on the internet or some old manual.

Run àway front the u-bracket junk.  Horrible design.  I have seen multiple attempts to use them fail.  Long term driveshaft alignment is impossible as they sag.

Do it right.  Install new brackets on the tunnel.

Porterfield R4S.  Front and rear.

If you were to do a search on your question, your would find that the R4S consistently gets the high recommendation.....

LOL...all this wishing for parts prices to be what they were 30 years ago.  are you same people also wishing your monthly income was the same as it was decades ago?  back when i was making $1k a month in 1980, a $100 trans was freaking expensive...?

summer 50% off sale.  price reduced to $250.  would like to get this big stuff out of my shop!

I was disposing of a 73 and a 74 when i took this out of a car...don't remember which it was.  my guess would be the 74.

There is a complete MTech kit for a vert for sale here in the dc area.

Nmna - I saw it in person last weekend.  All the way in the back on the rack against the wall on the left in this picture...?

Summer sale... Want this thing to move.  First $250 and a shipping label gets it.

Not ok to shave it.

Is shift rod bent down?

Need another seal on the input shaft.

If comfortable with seller, use f&f.

Reputation, time on forum, posts, member level are all indicators to help with that level.

If unsure, use purchase and add the fee.  Consider it insurance.

And always have stuff sent with tracking.

a month too late...  know someone in western PA that was looking hard for one of these, but just got one a few weeks ago.