M3M3

2 hours ago, TobyB said:

For some reason, I read that as 'in tank' as well.

 

t

 

lol..."in trunk" vs "in tank".....

14 hours ago, tech71 said:

That is the most elegant install but also the most expensive unless you can scrounge a complete pump/hangar and sender for a decent price. The sender( E30) is pretty big bucks.

Been looking, need(want ) one for Franzi

nope. none of that needed.  stock 02 sender/pickup.  inexpensive low pressure fuel pump.  mount under trunk boards or inside right quarter panel area.  it is the least expensive solution.

our forefathers wrote it correctly, but it has been grossly misinterpreted.  It is about the right of a WELL REGULATED MILITIA to keep and bear arms. NOT every citizen.  That militia became the national guard units.  

There is no sane reason for the amount of guns in this country.  It is embarrassing.

Why bother with complications from multiple pump systems?  Install electric pump in trunk, delete mechanical pump.  Done.

Electric pumps can be quiet and reliable.  And they are simple to replace and readily available at practically any parts store on the road.... Unlike mechanical pumps. 

2 hours ago, TobyB said:

Marshall!  

 

I've never used the serrated type- given the tiny changes I make in toe, I always

feared they'd be too coarse in adjustment steps...

Am I too paranoid?

 

t

yes...too paranoid Toby.   i am very particular about alignment (like you...track cars).  the serrations are quite small and iirc, one serration on the toe adjustment was less than 1/16th inch change in toe on one side.  well under the margin of error created by any play in bushings.

i am paranoid about the eccentric version.  only took one coming loose on race car during a race to scare me off of that style forever.   never had a serrated one come loose.  even if the nut backs off a little, the serrations hold it.  on an eccentric, if nut backs off even a touch...buh-bye alignment.

14 hours ago, Mark92131 said:

I need to have the trans sitting pretty high in the tunnel to avoid having the passenger side idler arm hit the S14 exhaust manifold while turning.  I'm trying to avoid installing this wrong and have squeaks, rattles and buzzing once this motor fires.

and on this point...

get a BFH and massage(dent) the manifold pipe slightly where it is close to the idler arm.  not kidding.  don't  be bashful.  just a slight ding and you will get all the clearance needed.  

locating the transmission mounts is the LAST thing you do in 245 install.

install diff loosely, install DS and guibo

support back of trans with a jack or something

make sure right side engine mounts are LOOSE to help moving trans.

now...COMPLETELY IGNORE ANY ALIGNMENT WITH THE DIFF!!!!!!  do not use any "DS alignment jig" that goes length of DS. worthless.

the ONLY thing that matters is that the output flange of the trans and the input flange of the DS are square to each other.

move the back of the trans and the CSB  up and down, back and forth to get those flanges square.  this can be done by eye, but the 2002sonly tool makes it easy.

once they are square, you will now know where the back of the trans should be and where the CSB will need to be.

the front and back half of the DS DO NOT need to be aligned.  there can, and probably will, be a slight kink at the universal joint. that is ok.  that is what it is there for.

BTW, in EVERY 245 install i have done(including with an S14), the transmission ended up jammed all the way to driver side of tunnel and all the way up against the top of the tunnel.  the CSB's all ended up needing to be moved all the way to passenger side and lowered below the bracket by a few washers.

entire process for installing the adjusters to the subframe is documented in my build thread in great detail.  install is for the serrated style...which is the only style anyone should be getting...

install info starts on page 62.

was wondering the same thing.  all the stock 76 emissions stuff that is supposed to be there is gone.  looks like the inspector "gun decked" the visual section of the smog cert.

1/ ban classified ad thread bumping entirely.   that is what the search function is for.  if someone is looking for something, they can search for it.

2/ limit new ads to one per day.

yup.  seen it.  usually an age related issue.  some shops don't change the valve stems when replacing tires unless specifically asked to do so.  even then, they don't.

Sad that even new ICE cars might as well be EV's.  Take the new 2023 M2 for example.

- at 4,000lbs, it weighs as much as an EV.

- open the hood.... There is no ICE visible, just plastic.

- there is zero mechanical connection between the driver and the road. Zero.  Throttle by wire, brake by wire, steering by wire .

- no actual gauges, buttons or knobs to control anything.  Just a touch screen computer display that covers half the dash.

☹️

changing the ratio in your E21 diff?  rebuilding it?  then you probably need this batch of stuff.

14 side cover shims for setting lash.  sizes 1.45mm to 2.0mm.  i think these are NLA.  at least they were when I acquired them years ago.  reset your diff, then resell all the shims not used to someone else.

and these new parts.....

-inner pinion bearing 33 12 1 206 739

-two pinion crush sleeves...because you aways mess up the first one..

-seal and dust cap

-input flange lock plate.

$300 for all.  shipped CONUS.

M3M3M3

the 02 has moved on, but the 4 beemers remain...

they dove right into the project!

If it would fit, everyone who does an S14 swap would use it.......

so no. M3 oil pan is several inches too long on left side.  this is why the Massive oil pan design basically moves the entire lower oil pan to the right about 3 inches.  and the upper pan has to be chopped also on the left side.

below pics of stock pan, and the Massive pan showing the offset.

here is the massive pan in relation to the subframe.

and of course the best A/C for a 2002 is to......buy an E30 to drive in the hot time of year...

there is no inherent "gas smell" from sidedrafts.

source of 99% of gas smell in 2002's is issues back in the fuel tank/trunk area, not the engine compt.

it is really quite easy to drop the subframe down.  hang the engine and undo some bolts.

5 hours ago, TobyB said:

 

heh

 

t

 

Well . The whole conversation is about front struts.  Context.

just look at the alignment sheet specs to see which one is bent.  wheel size/offset/tire size/etc have zero impact on camber, toe or caster.

hint.  stock 02's have close to zero camber.  

strut is bent.

On 2/19/2023 at 11:24 AM, m-tuner said:

If you are installing a e30 m3 engine into a 2002, why are you using a 245 transmission that will not take the power of the m motor?  the 245 trans is a 2002 trans withe overdrive, the motonic m3 engine is a exclent system, addig a aftermarket injection to the motor is a can of worms that is not needed, the next thing people do is add horsepower to the m3 engine, then a simpler fuel injection alpha N is used,  and the 245  trans is willfuly inadiqute ,  my last M2 build included the correct M3 bell housing, and the larger m3/635 transmission and guibo ?  you think a modfied M3 running a 2002/320i guibo is going to last more than a hour of hard driving good luck with that,  buildit right from the start and you wont be doing it over again  Bruce Mtuner

Sorry, none of that is true.

245 trans is plenty strong enough behind a modified S14.

And the six bolt guibo is completely up to the task.

Or maybe I am just imagining my 245 trans and 2002 guibo survived 7000 hard track miles behind a cammed, alpha-n, carbon airboxed, chipped S14 with a race clutch?

you are not going to find a damper/spring combination that is happy on dirt, street and track.   anything that is fun on a paved track is going to be way too stiff for dirt....and fun on dirt will be awful on track/auto-x.

even if you change springs for different events, no good damper is going to be adjustable for that wide a range of spring rates.

ya gotta pick one.  a compromise for everything will be fun nowhere...