M3M3

Since it is for a track car,  the ratio should be defined by what track you drive on most.   You want to be close to redline at the end of the fastest straight.    Then adjust if that puts a shift in a bad place somewhere on track.   

There is no right answer.  It depends on what track. 

Eg... a 4.41 diff was the best ratio behind an s14 and a 245 at summit point.  Over 125 top speed and kept the engine away from the bad ratio gap between 2 and 3 in the 245.  The zf you are considering has an even worse gap between 2&3.  1st and 2cnd gears are useless on track.    Maximize use of 3/4/5.

Rpm at 80mph irrelevant.  Its a track car.   

its your car.  who cares what others think.  build to car to make YOU happy.

as you can see there is no right answer.

the tires will be fine over a wide range of pressures.  and will not wear badly in that range.  anything in  27-38psi will be fine.

however...it depends on how you want the car to drive.  want soft , heavy and compliant?  27psi.  want crisp handling and lighter steering? 38psi.

set it where you like it.

OK, not a 2002, but there are many E30 M3 engines in 2002's, so it sorta fits.  plus it might be of interest to collectors in this crowd.  giving the M3 and 2002 folks first shot.  🙂

I love this car. I have spent hundreds of hours reviving it over the last few years...bringing all maint items for a 35yo car up to date and making a few select upgrades to enhance the natural essence of the M3 driving experience on street and track. The work was fun and the driving is sublime. The grins on track are priceless.


Alas....my E36 M3 race car and E36 M3 street car are getting all the use. This "better than new" example of an E30 M3 just sits under a cover up on my storage lift in my climate controlled shop. Sigh. I am not a "cars are art" guy. It pains me if my cars are not driven hard regularly as the BMW engineers intended. I feel bad that this thing just sits...heck, it is even out of sight under the cover.

So...I cringe saying that if someone wants to give it a home where it gets more use and attention than I am, I would be willing to part with it.

88 (July87) Henna. 41k original miles. Three owners. Original interior. Original paint. Numbers matching. Everything works. A/C updated and blows cold. Drives better than new. A few select upgrades. Original wheels, center caps and steering wheel come with the car. Before someone asks the typical BaT question....yes, it still has the original cat converter, so it should pass emissions. Pampered PA/MD/VA car its whole life. no rust, no excuses.

****Only exception to the "original paint " statement is the front bumper cover.  Having a perfect new part was more important to me than having a scratched old part.

ENGINE
Timing chain tensioner (S50)
Valve adjustment
Alternator bushings
Engine oil and filter (M1 15-50, Mahle)
Spark plugs (Bosch)
HP fuel pump (Bosch)
Fuel filter (Mahle)
Fuel tank drain and refill
LP fuel pump remove, clean, test, rewire
Rubber fuel lines replace (including clamps)

which BRAKE kit?  there are two.

what pads?

what rotors?

were the pads bedded in correctly?

shudder/vibration is usually NOT warping or runout.  it is usually poorly bedded pads that create an uneven laydown of pad material on the rotor.  can also happen if the wrong pads are used...like running track pads on the street.

could also be completely not brake related.  suspension and bearing issues can create this problem.

7 hours ago, D.Troast said:

not sure how old parts are as the vehicle is relatively new to me

i think i'll start with new calipers and rotors

any recommendations on where i can source those parts ?

START with the hoses!!! Rubber is not forever.   If you don't know how old they are, replace them.   Hoses are a failure item that will kill you.

some tools i make, some tools i buy.

this was worth every penny.  losing track of all the 02/e30 TA bushings i have done with it. 

BMW Rear Trailing Arm Bushing Removal Tool - E30, 318ti, Z3 - AKG Motorsport

AKGMOTORSPORT.COM

---

Our BMW E30, 318ti, Z3 rear trailing arm bushing removal tool greatly simplifies the removal and installation of these bushings. Made in USA.

so, it has been a bit over a year since my M2 moved to CA.   Just about all 02 parts are gone from the inventory, but still enjoy working on some local 02's and haunting all the 02 forums and groups!

still waiting on Kevin for in car video of my old car on some CA tracks!!

in the mean time, the M2 replacement, affectionately know as the FOT, has been being further developed and is getting lots of upgrades.  Have gone from kinda simple with the M2 to a bunch of computers talking on a data bus to manage the ABS, ECU, dash and video on the 95 M3.  for some reason this car is 6 seconds a lap faster than the M2 was....🤣  it goes fast, makes a lot of noise, and requires a lot of focus, but is missing that character the M2 had!

we need some in car video from track session!!!!

that header should be under glass in a living room....👍

always!  it is where all the GOOD build threads are!  😁

On 6/29/2023 at 11:10 AM, Greggotii said:

 

Thank you. Adjusting the strikers and letting the car sit in the sun helped a lot (mostly adjusting the strikers). But, the passenger side door is still a little difficult to shut without slamming. The latches have two clicks to be fully shut, and if you're only getting that first click you won't be able to lock the doors. I was having that problem before adjusting the strikers. 

after putting new seals in my car, it took a solid year for them to "break in" to the point that just a firm close was all that was needed instead of a slam.  much better.

On 6/29/2023 at 12:12 PM, Lucky 7 said:

So if I put a build thread in General, am I an asshole?  I mean, I AM an asshole but I don’t want you guys knowing it. 😆

 

My motivation would only be to engage with and reach more people. Definitely not selling my car or anything. We’ve been through too much together. 

in theory, there is no difference in "engagement" or reaching more people by putting it in the general section.  if everyone uses the activity/unread page as their default for this website, you see everything no matter what subforum it is in.

https://www.bmw2002faq.com/discover/unread/

if folks are just going to the general section, they are missing out on a lot of the depth of the info in this forum.    might as well just use faceplant.

it is a lot easier to find cool builds when they are in the build section and not lost amongst the rest of the posts in the general section.

LOL... My 500k view build thread has always been in the build threads section.  It certainly didn't seem to suffer from any lack of "engagement" or exposure.  Content drives engagement.

49 minutes ago, Lucky 7 said:

The whole reason I’d document the process is to try to help others as you all have helped me. 

bingo.  best reason for doing a build thread.

and when a good procedure is found, write an article for the articles section.  there is so much good DIY in that section that most never even look at.   it seems a majority of members nowadays never stray from the general 02 discussion subforum.

The "old style blogs" were not blogs.  They were build threads.  The "old blog archives" section is not actually an archive,  it is still an active sub forum for the types of postings that people here are wanting to do.  There is a ton of information in that sub forum on all kinds of 02 builds.

12yrs of my 2002/M2 journey documented there..1.1k posts ...500k views.

need pics of shifter support, trans mounts, guibo, csb...

guessing without them is pointless.

what TDH said.  subframe without the struts is much easier.  it is just three bolts to take strut off.  

hang the struts in the towers, bolt up subframe, bolt bottom of struts back on.  done.

No.

21 hours ago, jimk said:

ClutchMasters clutch plate makes the transmission sound like it's ready to crash.  It doesn't have the same spring damping. Seen 2 examples of this.  Go OEM.

 

Not my experience.  Have had multiple clutchmasters clutches in street, track and race cars, as have many of my racing friends.  Zero issues.  

Clutchmasters makes a variety of different clutch plate/disks with a wide range of different friction materials and springs for different uses.  Your rash generalization of all clutchmasters products is unfounded.

And btw.... Clutchmasters uses a bmw OE pressure plate from Sachs for their S14 clutches.

Go clutchmasters if you are going to do any fun driving.  Go stock Sachs if you are just going to toddle along to C&C's.

S14 everything.  Flywheel, clutch and PP.

Very minor clearancing needed on 245.

4 hours ago, TobyB said:

Awwww. Marshall, they don't 'wear out' they just sag a bit... kinda like my middle...

(but I'm sure that's what you meant)

Yep.... Springs that have sagged are worn out.  

By the looks of those springs and the pads,  they are shot.  Springs do wear out.   Invest in some new parts to match the shiny dampers.  

any group 24.  doesn't matter what brand.

or get any 15lb AGM.

or a Miata battery.

they all work.

16 hours ago, AceAndrew said:

Marshall, 

 

Not if you swap in the low-pressure pump from an early E30 (or a multitude of other low-pressure options).  

https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/116731-m20-triple-weber-build-x2/page/13/

 

That's a really cool idea to integrate the low-fuel light in though.

Nice! I stand corrected!

to be clear...

the IN TANK solutions are for fuel injection systems.   way too high pressure for carb cars.

the IN TANK fuel pump setups from E30 M3's and E30 318is's drop right into the 02 fuel tank with no mods.  they also have a low fuel light switch built into them.  i had mine low fuel switch wired to light up the defunct "fasten seat belts" light on the dash of my 75 M2.