Jump to content

tzak12

Solex
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    14

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

 Content Type 

Everything posted by tzak12

  1. tzak12
    Nice. I TWICE over-tourqued new rubber bushings. Hypothetically speaking, the car needs to be put onto a pair of RAMP JACKS, to keep the sway in its effective position. Maybe even consider replacing them EVERY TIME I unload the suspension. Interesting to see how aftermarket sways react to this. I suggested checking end link bushings, even if they are new, because they are tiny AND important AND easy to over-torque. After I switched to mine to polyurethane, it was "All Quiet on the Western Front."
  2. tzak12
    Steering wheel wobble/vibration for me was sway-bar end links. consider urethane.
  3. tzak12
    Just ordered!
  4. tzak12
    1 L + 1 XL
  5. tzak12
    Use thread lock
  6. tzak12
    Well somehow fuel enters the Kfisch at like 50psi(2 bar) and gets pushed out of the injectors by like 500psi(35-38 bar). What does a pump do?
  7. tzak12
    http://www.2002haus.com/rebuilt_tii_injection_pumps.htm These are rebuilt/used, not brand new/reman like from max. Price is much less. Maybe try some new linkage first, if you haven't already. What else. Theres a screw on the tuna can (throttle body) that i think adjusts the butterfly valve "open-ness" (not affecting the fuel delivery but rather the air/fuel ratio). I'm not sure if this is just at idle (like for cold starting maybe) or through-out the throttle range. ooo maybe a higher energy, unstock, ignition system would do something? Bigger spark/gap. Parentheses go! linkage
  8. tzak12
    Not sure if this thread is still active. The wikipedia for the m42 says a 2+mm overbore and the crankshaft from an m47 diesel makes 2.1 L. I wonder how much of an impact these mods would have on engine life. It certainly would help with torque issues. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMW_M42
  9. tzak12
    Blue smoke is from burning oil. I think this is a valve guide/seal problem in the head. The engine is sucking oil in through the valve guide along with air-fuel. Why this occurs only at such high rpms is only my guess. The test for this is to drive the car on the freeway in 3rd or 4th at higher engine speeds. Let the car coast a fews seconds the put your foot down again. If this second burst lets out a puff of blue smoke then its a the valve guides/seals. I don't think its dangerous state for the engine to be in, but it might be a pain in the ass to have to keep checking, refilling and buying the oil thats being burnt when this happens unintentionally. If it is, rebuild the head not the whole engine. Your cylinders and rings are probably fine, otherwise there would be noticeable power loss, blue smoke all the time, significant oil loss. A compression test would give an idea. Below 130psi is kinda iffy, 150psi is good.
  10. tzak12
    Would it make sense to record and compare your gas mileage with others' similar set-ups? I guess a leak would have to be pretty significant. But I say do a rough estimate and see if your in some standard range. Maybe you already have. I don't have webers so I can't help you in this regard. But please post any solution to this problem. Fixing the gas smell would do a lot for the image of the car. I have a large hole behind the rear seat to which I attributed this problem but I guess its more complicated than that.
  11. tzak12
    i always seemed to speak math better than english... Megasquirt = Megafabrication = Mega-time-commitment = turbo on the horizon (working) tii - points = BMW's springboard to later success = over-engineered = originality that is difficult understand and appreciate = not tune-able because the people who can are proficient engineers (there is a guy out there who does it I think) = traitor for throwing out points standard 02 = carbs + (I guess for you a 292) = classic old car fun with excellent handling Which one do I have? Now to answer your question, two more I must ask. Does owning a BMW have any historical significance to you? Or do you just want the car because its old, smells like gasoline, and could possibly be smog legal. I am not offended if you completely ignore this post. Just keep thinking about what you want to do with it. It sounds like tii to me.
  12. tzak12
    Try looking at the crane set-up in the FAQ (The crane xr3000 and the ps91 coil). I put that on my tii and it was the most effective thing I've ever done to it(big ego booster). The car starts just like my '06 scion Xb, and revs smoothly to redline. Only problem is that it may look a little less stock than this set up, if thats even a concern. I bought them together on amazon for i think it was $165+shipping. The MSD6A is one cool box, especially when it matches the car like in my verona. The compassitive discharge is a pretty sweet idea, but only from 0-3000rpm I believe. And i really considered it. But in the end i decided it was overkill because the M10 makes most of its power past 3000 anyway(which is where I am usually), and I just had the good old stock tii (redlines at 6500) not some $10,000 race engine playing around up at 8-10,000rpm. The msd is cool and expensive and possible overkill, it'll "feel" cool to have one, but your wallet will "feel" a lot lighter, but hey, now you can brag about it. The crane is much cheaper and may give you what you're looking for mechanically, but you won't be able to brag about it as much. But then again who brags about their ignition anyway? And how do i know you dont have some race engine? MSD is cool, get it and feel cool. Crane is effective, get it and enjoy the car.
  13. tzak12
    Ya, it looks like the one I have. I think where it looks like an extra length has been added means its a 5-speed. Otherwise from the outside a 4speed just looks like two pieces without that middle extension.
  14. tzak12
    I just installed the crane xr3000 and the ps91 (as suggested in the FAQs) in my 73tii this weekend. Idle and starting was much improved. But the limitation in this set-up I guess is that you're limited to 6500 RPM (6000 for the xr700). For my stock engine I believe this isn't a problem since the valve springs can't be reved any higher. So, if your engine is built for above 6500 go with the msd 6a (which i think stops working at like 15,000 or something). As for the trigger, I got the feeling from searching the board that the crane unit was more consistent at the higher RPMs. But i can't back that up. I also thought I saw someone saying that they had both the crane and the msd6a in their race car. This i think, is the best combo before going distributorless, but i haven't found anything describing how they are used together. (Does the msd6a replace the crane box?) Anyway, I think that kit in the link is great combo (It seems they offer it with either the crane or the petronix.) I know the crane can be used with the high output ps91 to give you your "strong" spark. consistent spark should be easy with crane but go with the msd if you can. Oh, and please look on amazon for the stuff, they at least tell you who has the lowest price (which is usually summit racing). I got to go to school good luck with your new engine.
×
×
  • Create New...