felix_666

Hello,

Looking on pricing for 67-73 grills, left and right, with the black coverings, and postage to Australia.

Thank you.

Will

I'm back on the search for these if anyone is considering selling a set.

I think I need the deep style, opposed to shallow, as I have Euro lights??

On 10/22/2016 at 11:52 AM, 02tom said:

Any damage to the rockers resulting in having had to replace them, and/or drill new holes, add filler or straighten panels will only complicate the process if not make it impossible to use the factory clips whether or not they are or are not the original type.  This applies more to if you find the stainless pieces won't say on and not if you can't get them to clip on in the first place.  I haven't found an alternative.

Old thread, but this has plagued my car for a long time. 

My issue has been fighting brand new rocker trim to sit correctly on new paint using old clips. The body was rust free so I think the paint is too tick?

My original black clips have a rubber washer that sits between the body and the clip.

Has anyone tried playing with the thickness of these to adjust the offset of the clips from the body?

That's annoying, missed out...

Interested in the full set of its doesn't sell. 

Assuming these are sold?

4 hours ago, Rare Classic said:

Hi,

I got better quality L & R aluminum grilles and NOS black inserts if you're interested.

Wally

Perth, WA

Sounds good, have you got pics?

3 hours ago, Conserv said:

2002 grille slats were painted black on early models, perhaps through the '70 models, or at least early '70 models.  The cut-off or transition is certainly to be found on this forum (I believe I recall Mike S. mentioning the cut-off, but I also know my extremely early '70 -- September 8, 1969 -- had painted grilles).  The paint chipped horribly.  Then black anodized slat covers were implemented and the world was a better place.  The black anodized slat covers remain available new from BMW.

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

Thanks Steve 

Probably a bit hard to find the other side,  not to mention the black slats, cheers anyway.

What: I'm searching for an early set of grilles (left & right) with the black covering slats - see the pic below.

Where: I'm in Australia so you'll need to be willing to ship.

Condition: Looking for a better set, no major blemishes, minor ok, say 7+/10.

Thanks

Good tips on the tank.

The carbs could be running rich, but the smell is so strong (my eyes hurt after 20 min) in the cabin/boot and non existant around the engine.bay. I've got all new seals around the firewall including those water drain tubes, so not sure about the carbs, hard to be sure. 

Not sure how I could get the o-ring wrong? Has been replaced twice though. 

The filler neck rubber is new as it's the paper gasket and I've removed it several times. 

I might replace the short hose coming from the the tank to the plastic fuel line. 

Thanks all, keep you posted. 

Yep, replaced that 'special' o-ring twice, just be sure. New rubber filler neck and gasket, fuel line, all new hoses, some braided, although they only have 2000km on them, or 6 years. Good question about the weeping, I don't know. I was thinking about wrapping everything (hoses, tank, sender, etc) with thin paper to try and identify any minor leaks when driving. There is no recovery tank, DCOEs, and I vent to the atmosphere from the filler neck via the boot floor.

I figured if there were any leaks in the seam I could press on the tank and make it breathe with the vent blocked, but the tank stays nice and firm as if it's air tight.

The search continues. 

Old thread, but I like upcycling.

I'm trying to identify a strong cabin/boot fuel smell and wondering if there is a way to determine if the tank seam is shot? I've replaced nearly everything else and despite my tank being in really good condition i used the POR15 kit several years ago when I did my restoration, but I'm running out of things to point the finger out.

Thanks.

I don't need any part Bruce, just the grilles, got some pictures?

Thanks Steve, I'll send you an email, need a couple of other things too...

Hello,

In order to finish my 8 year restoration I need help locating the following items. If anyone is even able to point me in the right direction it would be greatly appreciated as I have run out of avenues locally.

GOOD CONDITION

Early Grille set with black slats for Euro lights - I believe this means I need a 'deep' set of grilles.

1 x Left Grille (51131808473)

1 x Right Grille (51131808474)

NEW

1 x OEM Windshield Gasket (51317440104)

The potential seller would need to be happy to post to Australia.

Cheers

Will

My temp backup external relief valve has been swapped to a 65 psi check valve which has been working a treat combined with the oil pressure gauge to keep my heart rate in check. Much less effort and nerve than the manual needle valve.

Yikes, hope you're friendly with that MIG, don't forget to clean before you weld, much better penno. Thanks for the comments.

Had my carbs properly sorted this week $$$$$ but it drives 5 times better than I had it tuned and uses half the fuel.

My chokes went from 33 to 30 and the mains are down to 115, which leaned things right out.

Couple more things to iron out, but getting it registered was a big milestone.

A final update:

I took my car to the carb guy who rebuilt the carbs to begin with and he played around with the jetting, timing and the chokes and eventualy stuck it on the dyno.

Mains went down to 115

Chokes went down to 30

Everything else seemed good.

I wanted it to be ok on fuel and good down low, which it appears to be, but hard to know for sure when you haven't much comparison.

Good times.

I have just completed the same task. New engine with DCOE's.

I vented to road whilst I wait for this catch can, which I will modify a little to accept a mini filter:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/130953807228?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Although for neatness and originality I would like to plumb the crankcase vent to the air filter of the carbs.... perhaps at a later date.

Finally got the engine running good enough to go on a proper drive. Have about 60km on the clock today.

Fair few more things to go, but well on the way.

UPDATE

A follow up for any suckers out there in a similar boat to me in the future.

The Crane trigger wasn't aligned correctly, which was installed at the beginning of the year and has caused all sorts of problems, like rich running due to insufficient time for the charge to be released and crazy timing according to adjustable gun.

Thanks to all those who helped along the way, I learnt heaps. Soon as I restarted the engine with the trigger correctly adjusted everything began to fall into place, idle mixture screws actually making a difference, nice idle at 800rpm and most importantly it pulls like a wounded bull with no hesitation or flat spots, although I'm pretty sure I have a bit of tuning to go as things are still pretty rich.

In summary, "90% of your carb problems are the ignition".

Videos to come.

Cheers.

Felix, 

 

Just read your post and I feel your frustration. I had the same issue with my 40DCOE32 3 weeks ago. Chased everything from jetting to timing. I was too running a crane XR 700 optical wheel and a 037 mechanical distributor. My bosch red coil would get real toasty after 15-30 mins of running. And all the issue you are having I had.. 

Try this - 

While engine running try wiggling the optical wire that connects your xr700 to the optical sensor inside the distributor. If it misses or kills the engine. Bingo! you problem is the optical wiring assembly. If you still have your points/condenser setup. remove the xr700 optical wheel assembly and swap in the points and condenser. Properly gap it to .016 and fire her up. This solved the problem that you've described. Also check your coil. What coil are you running anyway? Hope this helps.

 

John

I will try this. Last week I went over the ignition system with a fine brush, although everything is new, I wanted to double check, but given how well it starts up and runs till warm I'm assuming the crane is ok.

Coil is a Bosch Blue unit, I think it's got 3.4-3.6 ohms of internal resistance. I have a couple of others, but they are all pretty similar regarding internal resistance.

It seems to run well when cold (no load - so it might run like crap in the road) which makes me feel the ignition system is fine - my assumption is that an ignition problem should be consistent through operation.

Anyway, I'll jiggle the crane, something I haven't done.

Idle jets were 55/F9, but I'm currently running 50/F8. It's hard to understand how it can be lean and blowing smoke, I guess it needs a fair bit more bedding in.

Check further up the page foe pictures of where the throttle plates are sitting. Can you be more specific about the "first" transitional hole, is that inboard or outboard?

Pressure checked whilst running. When the car turns off the pressure is much the same, maybe it drops a little.... was this a leading question regarding the valves?

So can the seat and needle be checked physically?

Spitting/bogging occurs when driving it off idle, but when stationary (no load) and I rev it by hand there is not spitting and it freely revs.

Pressure is good for the fuel at a steady 2.5 psi, according to my gauge. 

I haven't checked the needle valves as you indicated, but have adjusted the floats a few times and the spring and ball are in place, which other parts of the needle valve goes bad?

I added a pic for clarity.