SaharaX2

Barney, you are making such great progress with your car.
I enjoy your progress reports. However, You need to slow down.
You are making the rest of us look bad.
Thanks for the motivation.


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Agree with iinca.

the changes I would make it the ICE Auto AC would be to install a Spal fan and to use a trinary switch with a heat sensor on the bottom of the radiator. This would give you some extra margin of safety at low speeds while in slow traffic.

With the addition of the condenser on the front of my radiator, my car tends to get hot in parade speed driving on a hot day(high 90’s).

The condenser provides in my kit was a regular condenser. A larger parallel flow condenser would be nice too. If I were ICE, I would update their Clardy clone kit with the modern improvements recommended in Rob Siegel’s book to have as close to perfect A/C for a 2002.

One of the nice things about the ICE kit is that everything is there, it is new, and you have good instructions.

You can upgrade things as you assemble them, but everything fits together pretty well and the A/C will handle Alabama heat in the summertime to cool things off a little.

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I have the ICE Auto Air system in my ‘75 and I like it a lot.

My car originally had a Clardy aftermarket A/C system installed. The ICE system is a copy of the Clardy so the install was easy.

Rob Siegel’s  book “Just Needs a Recharge” is required reading before playing with A/C.

Thanks.
I will look at my down pipe to see where I can mount an O2 sensor. Ideally, I would like to mount the sensor on the collector tube rather than one of the individual tubes.
I have a tii Manifold and downpipe.


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Thanks for the input.
I am now strongly considering installing a wideband O2 sensor. Considering the 10 and 2 requirement for mounting the Lamba sensor, where are these best installed?

In previous discussions most wideband 02 sensors appear to be installed in the down tube vertically between the small space between the tunnel and XMSN.


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Digital, I think.
Which works/looks best?

I have vdo gauges.


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Thanks.
I just richened cylinders 1/4 and leaned cylinders 2/3 a little and took the car for a drive.
After the engine cools, I will pull a couple of plugs to see how they look.

Anyone have any recommendations as to brands or sources for a wide band A/F sensor?


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Thanks. I am strongly considering that. It is the right way to do it as recommended by Pierce Manifold.
I just have limited space with the 5 speed and want to do it right when I get the time.

I need to mark the location where I want the sensor on the down pipe, remove the down pipe to have the bung installed, then put everything back together. Install the gauge.


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Thanks, that helps a lot.

Duh for me.

The front barrel serves 1&4 while the rear barrel serves 2&3.

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I love my newly installed Lynx Manifold and 45 DCOE.

The car runs really great, but In checking the plugs I am trying to get the idle mixture sorted out.

After inspecting the plugs after idle, two plugs are correct, while two are rich.

I know that one barrel of the carb serves cylinders 1&4, while the other serves cylinders 2&3.  

Unfortunately, I did not pay attention when installing the carbs to verify which runner went to which carb barrel.

My question is, which carb barrel serves which cylinder?

Thanks,

Frank

At your current rate of progress, you will be taking your beauty for its first drive next weekend!
Congratulations.



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Probably thermostat. Check it first, per above.


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Nice wash station!
I especially like the US 129 (Deals Gap) sign and BMW clock.


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Nice wheel!

I had one that came with my car.

To give some a idea of what it costs to professionally recover one of these wheels. I recall, I paid over $400 to get my wheel recovered by Kraft Customs in TX. Beautiful!

I finished installing the Lynx manifold and DCOE 45 on my ‘75 and tuned it. Works great!


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I have a MM 3.64 LSD in my ‘75 with a 5 speed XMSN and it does great.
The 3.64 keeps the rpm down at highway speeds.
It all depends on what you want to do with the car.

I take my car on long road trips where the 3.64 shines.

IF I was going to auto cross or track days a lot, I would install the 3.91 LSD and stick with the 4 speed. No need of the expense of going to the 5 speed XMSN for that usage. This gives you the acceleration of the ‘76 and keeps things simple.

The 3.91 with the 5 speed XMSN in 5th gear gives you approximately the same final drive ratio as the 4 speed with the 3.64 gears.





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The emergency roadside parts parts kit is unique.
That will give us all ideas as to making our own kits.


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FYI, The Frigiking on my ‘74 had no evidence of ever having a fan as Mike stated.
Of course by the time I got it, the ac only worked for a little while.
I did not care, I enjoyed the 304 cam and DCOE’s.


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My ‘75 with an Ice Auto Air (clary) and E21 radiator gets hot in really hot weather and slow, parade speed traffic.

The auxiliary fan definitely is a must.
I am going to install a trinary switch in the dryer this spring along with a thermo switch in the radiator to improve air flow thru the radiator at low speeds to fix this.


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The breakdown is on real OEM, for ‘74 and up.

XMSN, page 23/17.
Good luck



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Not sure if realoem has a breakdown of the parts but a paper copy of the parts manual shows the circlip.
I took mine apart on my ‘76 about 15 years ago. A real pain.
The ‘75 gearshift was tight, so I did not mess with it.


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They all do that.
It is possible to remove the pieces, there is a circlip up inside there. Beware that it is really hard to get it back together as you have to put a significant amount of force to push the new rubber insert down enough to insert the circlip.


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My mileage was highway miles at high ambient temperatures with no short trips. The higher heat generated may account for the small quantity of residue in the system.

I just drained my catch can after about the same mileage and got about a tablespoon of a frothy yellowish mixture of water and oil.
Not sure what is normal. I was expecting more.



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This car looks like it had it’s weekly wash with salt water since new!


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