SaharaX2

Thanks Paul,
Beautiful photo.
Emily set the standard that all our cars aspire to.


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Thanks Toby.

Historically M&N suspension sat a low in the rear. I thought by swapping springs I could get the front down a little, but since all springs are the same that is no longer an option.

The car drives and corners wonderfully. I am just trying to sort out the height issues.

BTW, I installed H&R springs on my ‘76 so that is what I was basing my stance on, although this car corners and rides a LOT better than my ‘76.

All springs I have, as near as I can figure, are the same.

Trying to sort out what or how M&N springs are supposed to be installed.

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Thanks
When you get a chance to check the M&N catalog I would appreciate any additional info on spring mounting.

From what I have observed, swapping springs end for end when they are all the same is an exercise in futility.

Frank


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Outside diameter 5”

Free length 10”

Not sure by spring or un-sprung

I guess it would count as 6 or 6+ coils total.

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Thanks.

Dimensions as above.

photos attached.

I have a 1980 M&N catalog but it does not have any install info other than not using a spacer under the front spring causing bump steer.

Based on the car, I think the PO ordered the M&N suspension package #1 with negative camber plates and 19 mm sway bars. The car also had a Q/R steering gear box, but that is long gone.

Does anyone have experience with M&N Springs?

I inherited the springs with the car purchase in 2007 with some M&N receipts.

I have been running the springs on my '75 since 2008, they work great, but I have some ride height issues.

 The front of the car is a little high and the rear is low, in spite of using a 2-dot spacer and 2-19mm alumninum front spacers stacked above each rear spring to raise the rear of the car as reported to be recomended by M&N on a post.

Some folks have recommended swapping springs front to back may help,  but holding the rear spring in my hand, measuring it and comparing it to the front installed spring they appear to be identical. Swapping springs back o front may be a waste of time.

The rear spring uses a 0.5" coil and is about 10 5/8" long with 4 1/2 free  coils and from what I understand appears to be the M&N autocross spring.

The last post I have been able to find was some mention of the M&N springs was in Sept 2002.  Paul W had a set he was considering installing on Emily, but no follow up posts. 

Not much info on M&N springs on the FAQ. There might have been some info on the old Roadfly form, but I am sure that stuff is long gone.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance for your assistance.

Frank

I tried that, but instead of the 12” rod, ideally you need a 15” rod to get back near the firewall so you can use the stock throttle rod.
Because I wanted to drive the car, I switched back to the supplied TEP throttle cable. I did shorten the housing a little to make things fit, but it works so smoothly that I have no reason to go back to the top mount linkage.


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Nice carb. Someone will like it

I just completed the Lynx manifold install and am enjoying it a lot.
I had issues with top linkage and went back to the TEP cable which works perfectly with a shortened cable housing.

What top linkage did you use?


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Glad you are ok.

That is scary!

A BFH applied to strategic spots with friend holding dolly from underneath.

Or

A porta power, or come-along with welded attachment points on the floor pulling down.

Good luck!

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I think I would have quit after “window regulator.”
Chances are very good that the window regulator was going to break anyway.
It just happened to break when she was operating it.


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If you call Portland Driveshaft and give them the measurements they can make a custom 3 yoke driveshaft for you. One that has a guarantee and greasable u-joints.
You do have to have a driveshaft to return, or it is extra cost.
I have purchased 2 driveshafts from the, over the years and they are great to deal with.


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E21 transmission mount in lieu of the 2002 mount.


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I used Kroil penetrating oil and a cam operated stud remover to get most of the studs out of the head with the manifold removed. Of course some studs also came out like bolts when the bolt head was twisted. Recommend that you Spray the heck out of every fastener each day, 3 days before work.

Best penetrating oil is 50/50 mix of Dextron ATF and acetone.
This stuff is Very FLAMAMBLE. Only mix up what you are going to use and don’t leave it laying around.


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The E21 style heat shield works better and will not rattle.
You will need to remove the exhaust manifold to do the job.
Usually this also entails replacing some or all of the exhaust manifold studs and bolts. If the manifold has never been removed, some of the studs will need replacing anyway.


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The 60 degree outlet looks like a good solution.
In revisiting my fitment, my issues are related to the angle of the engine and the fans proximity to the lower radiator flange.
The center of the fan shows plenty of clearance, so now it is a matter of changing the angle of the drivetrain to allow for the 5-speed XMSN, Guibo alignment,and to keep the lower part of the fan away from the radiator.


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Due to my probably inaccurate calculations, I estimate that I currently have about 46 mm of space between the fan and the radiator support. 

unfortunately i measured the W&N radiator and it measures 47mm at the lower radiator flange.

i guess I will have a brand new W&N high flow radiator for sale soon.

a shame, because it is beautiful!

Steve, the e21 radiator is a little thinner than the W&N.
I currently have a little over 10 mm of space between the fan an radiator so it will be tight.

The radiator from hell thread had A guy with 3/8” between The engine fan and the Ireland Engineering Alumnium radiator so he returned the radiator.
Frank

Thanks Steve. 

My current E21 radiator looks a little close to the fan, but there is some space there.

Unfortunately my E21 radiator was such a pain to install with the fan shroud, side exit bottom hose AND AC it will be a real job to get the old radiator out just to slide the new one in to see if it will fit.

the measurements look ok.

my car has no indication of being hit in the front or repaired.

Frank

Response from W&N:

”the radiator with the higher capacity is a 2-core system, but there are more vertical channels, (38 instead of 31)

the radiator is 40mm thick compared to the 32 mm of the standard radiator.”

Has anyone with the W&N radiator having any clearance issues between the fan and the radiator?

Thanks. With some of the FAQ references to a W&N 3 core I was not sure that they had sent me the correct radiator.
I have sent a query to W&&N requesting clarification.

I have a Behr E21 radiator installed and it works great for most driving although the engine does get hot at parade speed.
I think that the new ac condenser may be slowing down the air flow at slow speeds.

I have about 6 old radiators I got from a guy that used to race 2002’s, so sourcing the outlet fitting is not an issue. One radiator looks new, and I was considering installing it before I saw your conversation on the W&N radiator.


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I s the W&N radiator you modified the 3 core version?

I ordered one from them and it is a 2 core.

Keith’s photo captures the essence of the Mid America Fest!

A wonderful bunch of of ‘02 fans enjoying and promoting our great cars.

I really enjoyed last years fest.

i am sorry we missed this year, but plan to attend in 2020.

Frank

Glad you are having a great time. The Mid America Fest in Eureka Springs is special. We hope to attend again next year.


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The car sits high.
Maybe it has been that long since I have seen a ‘76 with stock suspension.


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