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About SaharaX2

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  1. Thanks Chris & Slavs. Yes the rear end low appears to be the standard characteristic of Miller and Norburn springs. Now I need to get s set of 3 dot upper mounts to even things out as much as possible and call it quits. The car drives very nicely and corners well. “If it’s not broke, don’t try to fix it!” Frank Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  2. Recommend talking to Mike or Steven at Pierce Manifold since you bought the carbs from them. Pierce Manifold is closed on Friday. They were a big help to me with my 45 DCOE. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  3. No. This is an adapter for a compression tester. I know, because I have done this. Your car will run on all four cylinders now instead of three. You will be amazed at how much power you have and how much better it runs. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  4. Spring Coils diameter measure as below: LF 13.62mm, RF 13.58mm LR 13.58mm, RR 13.37mm Not sure these numbers are significant enough to change springs front to rear. All spring height’s are the same. Any ideas for raising the rear to match the front? Thanks, Frank Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  5. That’s sad. Hopefully Emily will see the light of day, someday as someone’s “barnfind” with a bunch of dust or hay all over and she has been sitting on a concrete pad. That would give Emily some nice patina for the next generation. We can only hope! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  6. Thanks Paul, Beautiful photo. Emily set the standard that all our cars aspire to. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  7. Thanks Toby. Historically M&N suspension sat a low in the rear. I thought by swapping springs I could get the front down a little, but since all springs are the same that is no longer an option. The car drives and corners wonderfully. I am just trying to sort out the height issues. BTW, I installed H&R springs on my ‘76 so that is what I was basing my stance on, although this car corners and rides a LOT better than my ‘76.
  8. All springs I have, as near as I can figure, are the same. Trying to sort out what or how M&N springs are supposed to be installed. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  9. Thanks When you get a chance to check the M&N catalog I would appreciate any additional info on spring mounting. From what I have observed, swapping springs end for end when they are all the same is an exercise in futility. Frank Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  10. Outside diameter 5” Free length 10” Not sure by spring or un-sprung I guess it would count as 6 or 6+ coils total. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  11. Thanks. Dimensions as above. photos attached. I have a 1980 M&N catalog but it does not have any install info other than not using a spacer under the front spring causing bump steer. Based on the car, I think the PO ordered the M&N suspension package #1 with negative camber plates and 19 mm sway bars. The car also had a Q/R steering gear box, but that is long gone.
  12. Does anyone have experience with M&N Springs? I inherited the springs with the car purchase in 2007 with some M&N receipts. I have been running the springs on my '75 since 2008, they work great, but I have some ride height issues. The front of the car is a little high and the rear is low, in spite of using a 2-dot spacer and 2-19mm alumninum front spacers stacked above each rear spring to raise the rear of the car as reported to be recomended by M&N on a post. Some folks have recommended swapping springs front to back may help, but holding the rear spring in my hand, measuring it and comparing it to the front installed spring they appear to be identical. Swapping springs back o front may be a waste of time. The rear spring uses a 0.5" coil and is about 10 5/8" long with 4 1/2 free coils and from what I understand appears to be the M&N autocross spring. The last post I have been able to find was some mention of the M&N springs was in Sept 2002. Paul W had a set he was considering installing on Emily, but no follow up posts. Not much info on M&N springs on the FAQ. There might have been some info on the old Roadfly form, but I am sure that stuff is long gone. Any ideas? Thanks in advance for your assistance. Frank
  13. I tried that, but instead of the 12” rod, ideally you need a 15” rod to get back near the firewall so you can use the stock throttle rod. Because I wanted to drive the car, I switched back to the supplied TEP throttle cable. I did shorten the housing a little to make things fit, but it works so smoothly that I have no reason to go back to the top mount linkage. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  14. Nice carb. Someone will like it I just completed the Lynx manifold install and am enjoying it a lot. I had issues with top linkage and went back to the TEP cable which works perfectly with a shortened cable housing. What top linkage did you use? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  15. Glad you are ok. That is scary! A BFH applied to strategic spots with friend holding dolly from underneath. Or A porta power, or come-along with welded attachment points on the floor pulling down. Good luck! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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