albawhore

ARP. The bottom of their home page has a link for AU and NZ dealers.

BMW-AUTO-PARTS-DEALER

Any of the performance shops that build Engines etc.

Cheers

Justin

Good for you.

Cahsel does have them in their tuning section, you could call or email them and find out the price for new ones then justify your opinion.

With the wealth of shady parts guy's out there I like to know the price for new before I buy anything.

I think we have all been stung with remorse at one time or another.

Cheers

Justin

Here in the states we can get the all yellow ones for $75 US brand new, but we can't get those at all. Try looking at Jaymic or Walloth and Nesch and see if they are still available and what their prices are. You could also try Cahsel.de but be careful of that site it may take you on a wallet ride.

Good Luck

Justin

High and anywhere that you put consistently high loads on them.

The higher the torque that is called for in the repair manual the more you have to worry.

In critical load areas in the electrical industry we check every fastener with a tourque of more than 20 ft/lbs on a Bi-annual basis or twice a year. To the point of measuring the fastener for nominal length.

This is in situations where a failure could literally mean $100,000 a minute, but you get the point.

Chers

Justin

Ingraham,

I know a place in San Jose that should still do it for 3 or less.

Justin

P.S. I'll check tomorrow.

DRIVERS,

EVERYTIME.

JB

Because of the cold weather and the probable build up in there you could also try giving the flywheel a couple of good whacks, either through the hole with a drift or pull the plate behind the engine at the face of the flywheel. Sometimes the driven plate sticks after sitting or cold.

Good Luck

Justin

Hey I've got that T-shirt.

Most likely they were just loose and the diff is fine.

OSH for 12.9 cap screws, a good quality torque wrench and some loktite = a good life.

Cheers

Justin

I have one with 500 miles on a rebuild. e-mail me spaarke@yahoo.com

Justin

Works great but it is silver like regular hardware.

Justin

I would go 10.9 or better and use jam nuts and red loktite, and maybe even drill the 10.9's for the wire. If you think about it though they do not even putt cotter pins on ball joints anymore they use nylok's.

Good luck

Justin

I will be sorry to see him go and will miss your input.

In my opinion you should keep Karl and go for one of those long drives!!!

Karl is going to be considerably harder to replace than people with SERIOUS material issues. People, friends, hell even lovers are a-dime-a-dozen. Karl on the other hand is a one of a kind, unconditional lover. Much like a good dog He will always be there for you.

If you do part with him check in on the rest of us every now and then.

Respectfully,

Justin Bell

Check out pierce manifolds in the links section, they wil have downloadable instuctions for all of the baseline settings and will stock any parts that you may need.

Justin

If you are talking about 36 13 11 04 650 bmw-auto-parts-dealer says $97.75 and BLUNT can usually beat them.

Cheers

Justin

Hey vinz shoot me an e-mail I may be able to help with your M10 budgetary woes.

Justin

A GOOD driveline shop will have everything they need. Most good shops will advise that you put in joints that are "servicable" which means they have grease fittings. In my experience they will tell you EXACTLY what they are going to do before they let you leave. IMHO they should paint and balance for you. If they do not say that is what they are doing I would definitely ask.

It should look brand new when you get it back.

Cheers

Justin

Vinz,

What are you looking for. E mail me.

Justin

That dodge had a rough hp-to-weight ratio of 8.2, unfortunately you will need 256 bhp to match that in a stock o2. If you get in there and start trimming fat you can probably get it down to 1800# now you will need 220 bhp to get the same ratio.

Good Luck

Justin

Check out azee's project blog. I think he is in oaktown or alameda he can probably give you advice and or inspiration. Seems to be a good cat too.

Welcome to the affliction.

Justin

Drink A LOT of good beer first so the stamp job looks authentic.

Seb.

Have you looked at bmrparts.com they do rebuilt long blocks. Their performance engine is 15-20% hotter than stock and have a FIVE YEAR coast-to-coast warranty. The want about a G more than your budget but they are in Ranch Cordova and have it sitting on the shelf. Properly tuned that would make for an excellent ride that will give you years of enjoyment. You won't be smoking mustangs but it will eat the twisties and be reliable as hell.

Justin

02 again. ~$300.

The wiring for the belts comes around under the rear seat and the along the trans tunnel to the base of the belt stems. It is possible that if you were welding back there you may have melted some insulation and the wires are shorting to each other.

Good Luck

Justin

The only mod is to get rid of all of the smog crap. You can source a header for about the same price as a Tii manifold and you will see greater gains with it.

Cheers

Justin

I have decided on the M20 stroker. It is a common swap and the bugs have been worked out by others. You can buy motor mounts etc. The M20 isn't known for large bhp withou a turbo/supercharger however you can get the torque #'s up pretty high. From what I have read I am going to be looking at about 215 bhp and torque in the 250-260 ft/lbs range with a nice smooth torque curve all the way up.

My research has me looking at about $3500 for the engine in the car running. That is with me doing the majority of the work myself. There is a good write up on building the engine at strictlyeta.net.

As I said on the general board I have always been intrigued with the rotary swap and I would be interested to see one done. You might want to google pineapple racing and check out some of their stuff.

Good Luck and welcome.

If you ever need anything give me a buzz.

Justin