albawhore

Try calling Elgin cams in San Carlos/Redwood City Ca. This guy is one of the most knowledgable people out there as far as cams go. He has worked with M-10's for many years and he will give you a class right over the phone.

Good Luck

Justin

P.S. The website is www.elgincams.com and the phone number is (650)364.2187

I seem to remember them telling me that they would regrind for less than $200 and a new billet would be just north of $300.

Someone posted in the last month or so that bosch discontinued the original starers for our cars and are selling the S-14 starters in their place. The S-14 unit should be smaller and much lighter than the original and from all of the posts regarding the upgrade the bracket is not necessary.

Good Luck

Justin

Anyone know of one.

TIA

JB

Exact same block until 1984 I believe.

JB

Those "tap-a-lite" connectors can be had at any parts store in the electrical or trailer section.

For the foam you can attach it with spray adhesive, I like the 3M super/high temp product the best source it at Lowes or Home Despot, it is exspensive but it works well.

I just remove my headliner and there was foam in between the rails (where it is just sheet metal). I am planning on adding a layer of dynamat type stuff when I put mine back, you would not believe how much sound actually comes through the roof.

Good Luck.

JB

p.s. you've got mail

I am going looking for my M20. My questions are:

1. Is there a dead give away between a 2.5 and a 2.7

2. Is the 2.5 a better choice.

I am planning to go with the 2.7 bottom and the 2.5 top and probably stroke it with megasquirt and a cam see how it does and then possibly turbo. End result would be a 2.9l megasquirted "super eta" in a '75 o2.

Any feedback would be appreciated

TIA

JB

Ireland sells turbo kits or you can try cartech.net.

JB

Have you tried the archives?

ok

good

The good looking one did cough up some rather large chunks when I emptied it so I highly reccomend getting it coated

I just checked DMV and it said that ALL diesels are exempt from smog. You can see for yourself at the link provided above.

Welcome to California

I am in Sunnyvale if you ever need anything drop me a line.

Justin

If you pin the breaker bar against the frame rail and bump the starter it will come right off.

Cheers

JB

There are screws on my late models, on the underside front spaced all the way across and two hiding behind the steering wheel trim.

JB

It should be a simple spst. If you want you could by a switch to replace the dummy on your dash. I realize it is considerably more $$$ but it would be more correct.

JB

The drawers at Ace hardware or any good hardware store should yield any finish you want.

Cheers

JB

There are 2 screws under the windshield rubber. You can feel where they come through by the windshield wiper motor linkage etc.. I took my windshield out to get them but there are stories of guys/gals getting them out without removing the glazing.

Good Luck

JB

e-mail is info.konzernarchiv@bmw.de

Cheers

JB

I do not know if these holes are present in all years but my '75 and '76 both have them.

Good luck and Happy New Year.

JB

Factory new head is ~$1500 complete. Rebuilt is ~$700 complete.

Good luck

JB

I just finished stripping my '75 and there are threaded holes in the rear pillar that look like they would be perfect for shoulder harnesses.

I will try to remember to post some pix of the location when I get home.

JB

I believe Tj winston posted recently that he was getting a batch together for plating. I think the post was titled yellow cad. I want say that he called out $55 a run pretty much ragardless of amount of hardware.

Good Luck

JB

Did you look at the FAQ.

JB

Ihave heard that going with an S-14 water pump is wort the $$$. FWIW.

JB

this is what I ended up with

and this

and this

Check the screen filter in the carb?

JB

Those sumitomos in the pix were ~$50 ea. and do very well.

JB