albawhore

West marine and other boating shops carry a myriad of electrical stuff. Fuse blocks, connectors, terminal blocks etc.

There is anti-oxidation compound that can be found at any place that sells electrical supplies, the brand names are Noalox and Penetrox. I suggest putting this stuff on ALL mechanical connections (screws or bolts) and EVERY connection that is outside of the passenger cabin. It is goopy shit and you can make quite a mess with it however it will preserve the integrity of the connection for many years. In the electrical industry we use it in high moisture environments and anywhere salt may find its way into the equation.

I have used the stuff on boats and in Marinas and never had a problem.

I feel it is one of those cheap insurance while you are in there type of deals.

Good Luck

Justin

PS I am doing a complete re-wire also and I am going to do my best to document everything.

There is someone on this board that makes a wiring harness kit for about half the price of the painless one that is rumored to be of the same quality as painless. I can't remember who it is though. I will have to go back and find his name.

JB

If it makes a difference, I am building an M20 right now and it is going to be a dual use car. I am going to put a cage in, but I am going to specifically design it for street safety. There is definitely a middle ground. The benefits outweigh the drawbacks as far as I am concerned.

JB

I'll go $800 you gross polluter.

JB

I have always had good luck with 3M high temp spray adhesive. It works very well and would be good for both applications. It is a little pricey but it is worth every penny.

Good Luck

JB

Steve,

I am a construction Foreman for a large electrical contractor and I am currently working on the Great America 1 site for you folks over here in Santa Clara.

Justin

Steve, are you a Juniper guy?

I will be making a run up to Yreka over presidents weekend so if any of you want Bentworkers parts I would be happy to pick them up and save you shipping. I will be taking a fullsize truck so size is not an issue just let me know.

Cheers

Justin

Highway 35 between castle rock and bear creek rd.? or was that more like alpine rd? Just curious looked really familiar.

Nice Vid.

I am building an m20 right now and would love to come visit your beast some time.

Cheers

Justin

If the noise was not there before I would double check the work you just did first. Make sure that your alignment (driveshaft) is good make sure that it was properly pre-loaded etc. Make sure that everything is properly lubed.

Good Luck

Justin

As far as I know the only way to pull it off is to find some POS with a black plate on it, buy it, transfer the plates to the o2 and throw the POS away.

Good Luck

JB

A friend had one in college, it feels more like a big car but they were venerable race cars in their day with many, many titles under their belts.

JB

If you get rid of the charcoal canister (the can by the brake reservoir) you will need to address venting the fuel tank in some other way. There is a blue plastic tube that goes from the canister back through the passenger cabin to an expasion tank in the trunk (plastic up in the right corner) you will need to vent that to outside the car somewhere.

Good Luck

Justin

Welcome to the illness!!!

There are a couple of choices for braking check out Ireland Engineering in the links section or Massive brakes.

As far as suspension Ireland is again an excellent source.

Engine is all about how much much can you spend. You can go anywhere from a rebuilt from bavarian motor exchange for a few grand to a full race engine for 10k++++.

Good luck and do not worry about "stupid questions" as someone wiser than I stated here recently the only stupid question is the one you didn't ask.

Justin

The trim clips can be had on e-bay there are 2 sources for stainless ones, one guy is a member here and from what I understand his parts are flawless. The other one is cgi or something I have read that they aren't as nice but they are fully functional and more readily available. I would get in toch with BLUNT for the seals his e-mail is part of his profile.

Justin

That looks like fiberglass, not bondo. Depending on where you are planning on going with the car, you might want to consider cutting the nose back to good metal and the putting on an air dam that will cover up the lack of nose.

You weren't kidding about seeing all the way through the car.

Some euro turn signals would sure smooth out that front end.

Welcome to the fray, if you start getting discouraged check out my 75 o2 blog and check out the predicament that I have put myself into.

Good Luck

Justin

It depends on what you are looking for. There are some great sites in the links section. Bav Auto has a pretty deep inventory and good prices. Blunt (board member) can get anything BMW makes at tremendous prices. Mesa performance has a lot of good stuff. www.bmw-auto-parts-dealer.com has really good prices but you can only get stuff with part numbers their site does not go back far enough to look stuff up by the model. www.realoem.com is a fantastic source for factory part numbers.

Good Luck

Justin

I cam up with 13720742125 for the small one and 13711250115 for the large one. realoem.com shows them as ended or NLA. bmw-auto-parts-dealer.com shows them as nla but gives a price like they can get them so try your local dealership and see if they can get them. If they can then go back to www.bmw-auto-parts-dealer.com and they will SMOKE your dealers price.

Good luck

Justin

PS the vacuum hose went to the charcoal canister, if that is gone the leave the hose out.

You can try grounding the gauge, ther have been numerous threads on this but basically what you do is take a wire from the brass nut on the back of the gauge to a good body ground.

As for the odometer there is an amazing write up in the body-interior faq by Curt Ingraham

Cheers

Justin

When I called I think they said ~$150 and new billets for ~$300.

I am local so no shipping.

www.elgincams.com give them a call they have been doing m10's forever and are VERY knowledgable. They wil take time out of their busy day to give you cam class.

Cheers

Justin

Hey jetboy I just put a reply on your head thread that might interest you.

Justin

Jetboy,

I have a 121ti head that is in good shape. It is broken down for rebuild. I have not checked the height but it was working well with no leaks when I pulled it.

I will let it go for $75

The only reason I broke it down is because I was going to go with stainless valves and a regrind. I do know that it needs new guides/seals it was smoking a little on decel.

BTW you can get regrinds any size you want done at Elgin cams in San Carlos/Redwood city CHEAP.

Let me know.

Justin

No details on manufacture, parts only. The other site I posted earlier will give you your birthday, original color, where it was shipped to from the factory etc.

They usually get back to you pretty quickly too.

Cheers

Justin

Grant, That is odd. It does indeed come up as an e30.

If you email info.konzernarchiv@bmw.de with your 7 digit vin# they will give you factory info.

At realoem.com you need to go to the archive section and then enter your 7 digit vin# then your car should come right up.

Cheers

Justin