brendang2000

Just freshened up an old 318 motor, swapped pickup for the 02 and primed on stand to 20psi with starter. Oil making it to the cam oil tube. Everything looked good. Installed in car, got it running, very low pressure at idle, getting lower, getting lower, zero pressure. Pulled valve cover, no oil to cam. Dropped oilpan in car to make sure pickup still attached and pump shaft spinning. I know the 2 O-rings were in there, I did not replace for new, but maybe I nicked one while installing? I read a post about the bypass valve sticking, but wouldn't that just bypass the filter and not drop pressure? Metal gasket was installed between pump and pickup. Any ideas, anything I'm missing? Looks like I'll be pulling this engine. Thanks.

I'll be doing the same thing shortly. I thought about using a security contact magnet as they have a hole through the center and I could drill&tap the flange on the tranny or diff and use a bolt to secure. They are rear-earth magnets though, so maybe they are to strong. Anybody try these yet?

While I think I'm a pretty good mechanic, I never wanted to touch a transmission. Well that's not exactly true, fluid, filter, clutch and of course removal and install were all done by me. But I was weighing the cost of having someone re-sealing my 5 speed to the cost of the seals, and thought, "if I screw it up, then I'll bring it to someone".

The front seal was a breeze, not even worth mentioning. The rear was fine too, once I ground down a 30mm socket to fit the nut, drilled the square out of the socket to fit over the output shaft, then weld a nut head onto the back of the socket so I could get an impact gun on it! Actually, the worst part of changing the rear was scraping off the old gasket. I hate scraping gaskets.

Lastly was the gear shift rod seal. I've read numerious posts on the best way to remove it and also that there is room behind it to accomodate a few old ones if you just want to push it into the tranny. Then I read a member got his out and there was already one in there. Well the tranny is new to me so.....if I screw it up, then I'll take it in. So I got out my picks and small screwdrivers and went to town. After about 20 minutes and three bent picks later, I took a break and did some searching on the forums. I found a member who bent a screwdrive tip just enough to get under the seal, but not hit the casing (sorry I don't remember who you were, but thanks!). So I went back out to give it another try. As I was grabbing for the screwdriver, I looked at the bent tip on my 90 degree pick and thought, "why don't I just grind down this instead?". After 4 seconds on the bench grinder it was now small enough to fit under the seal without touching the case. Sure enough, got it under the lip (which was tore up from my first attempt) and pried it out in all of 10 seconds. After I got the new seal in thanks again to the member's tip of 1/2" PVC conduit, I sat back satisfied that I did it myself and saved $300 plus dollars.

Hi all. I'm looking for a running and driving 2002 to help complete my project, see picture. I have a 76 with most bodywork done, but no drivetrain. The car needed can be a rust bucket except for the front subframe and tranny tunnel as those are needed, would need to be standard tranny with the short style rear diff (although diff is not needed). I would not need any interior trim parts, seats, dash, etc, nor would I need any glass. Easiest way to put it, I need a complete running drivetrain including driveshaft, front subframe and tranny tunnel. I'm willing to pay up to $2000 cash.

If you have something I might be interested in within 8 hours drive from Phoenix, AZ, please email or call. Brendan g 2000 @ gmail 623.521. 6006 thanks, Brendan

Location: Phoenix<br />Year: Any<br />Make: BMW<br />Model: 2002<br />

Hi all,

SALE PENDING

Regrettably health is requiring me to sell my completely rebuilt by a professional shop, never started S14 drive-train. This motor is set up for a 2002 as it has the 02 oilpan/pick-up, water pump and no P/S. I also had the exhaust header flange moved so I would not have to dent the tube to clear steering. I was also going to run Megasquirt which comes with it (completely built and tested) along with a Jimstim. I am including the exhaust to the rear axle (see header note above) and the tranny tunnel. The tunnel will allow you to run the 265 tranny and still maintain the stock shifter location, it also has the rear shifter mount welded to it. The tranny was sent for rebuild, but no issues were found so I had them reseal only.

I have over $13k invested including price of the motor & tranny and have most receipts. I spared no expense, most bolts/nuts were replaced with parts from the dealer, not Ace hardware. Let me tell you, I really got to know the parts guy! All hoses and even their respective hose clams are new OEM. There are tons of performance parts into this motor, Supertech throughout, fuel rail, ARP, etc. One thing I love, is the 105 amp GM alternator (new) in the stock location, see pictures.

Below is a more complete list I put together of what has been done and also what comes with it. Due to my health I'll be unavailable, but if you have any questions or would like to view, feel free to call my roommate Todd at 480.326.7893. He knows all about the combo and can give more technical information than I could, like specs on the cam. I should be able to return emails, but it might take me some time, brendang2000 at gmail. I will attempt to add a few photos, but if they don't work I can send them to you. I would love to get $10k for this setup, but am willing to accept reasonable offers. Thanks for looking. Brendan

BMW S14:

1: Completely fresh rebuild by professional shop.

2: Still at standard bore as block, pistons and crank were in perfect condition.

3: Block was hot tanked, magna-fluxed, and honed.

4: Pistons were hot tanked and inspected.

5: New Total seal rings were end gapped.

6: Rods were cleaned, magna-fluxed, re-sized, checked for straightness and new ARP bolts installed.

7: Crank was hot tanked, magna-fluxed, checked for straightness and polished. Still standard size.

8: New bearings, freeze plugs new BWM main bolts.

9: Oil pump was machined to maintain BMW specs and 2002 pickup installed.

10: 2002 oil pan has windage tray installed.

11: Head has been hot tanked, mana-fluxed, planned for straightness, new guides and oversized hardened seats installed (see valves below).

12: Header is ceramic coated in and out and has been cut to clear stock 2002 steering linkage without denting it. Still has OEM output flanges. I have a full dual exhaust with x-pipe to mufflers that comes along as well. Mufflers to tail pipe are not included.

13: CS130 GM 105 amp alternator installed in stock position.

14: Balancer has hall-effect ring welded on and fresh paint.

15: Here is what has been freshly powder coated: water pump pulley, oil pan, water pipe, steam tube, alternator pulley, valve cover and air box have new wrinkle powder coating.

16: fuel injectors have been reworked to factory specs.

17: Ross racing fuel rail.

18: alternator bracket, motor mount brackets, starter bracket, IAC bracket and left side water tube have been re-zinced and treated to maintain hardness.

19: new clutch, throw out bearing, clutch fork, slave cylinder, and pressure plate. All hardware is replaced with correct BMW nuts bolts, etc.

20: flywheel was resurfaced.

21: new 2002 water pump installed.

22: new timing chain tensioner (the expensive one)

23: new timing chain

24: cams have been re-ground and cryogenically treated. 244 @ 50 on intake and 240 @ 50 on exhaust. Installed to factory cam lobe separation angle. These are similar to Schrick 292/284 cams, "bumpy but drivable car for a dual use car".

25:new supertech valves are oversized, exhaust is +1.0mm & intake is +1.5mm. They were ordered long and custom cut to maintain factory valve lash due to reground cams. 3 angle job. Valve lash tool is included.

26: new supertech valve springs. 110 lbs @ seat

27: new supertech titanium retainers

28: new supertech keepers

29: M3 tranny (Getrag 265) has been inspected and resealed. No issues found.

30: tranny tunnel to use actual M3 transmission (Getrag 265) is included. This maintains the factory shifter location. Also has rear M3 shifter mount welded in.

31: used but good 320 radiator and electric fan.

32: used Ford mustang 65mm AFM

33: two used S14 starters. They have been bench tested only.

34: new S14 thermostat.

35: all vacuum hoses and water hoses are new BMW parts

36: new BMW S14 oil separator and bracket.

37: new S14 short shifter

38: I will include the S14 AC compressor and brackets, but I'm sure this is only good for a core.

39: custom tranny mount with new bushing.

40: new polyurethane motor mounts.

41: new factory reconditioned MSD 6AL.

42:

43: new Aeromotive mini-EFI fuel pressure regulator.

44: new crank position sensor.

45: new BMW S38 TPS sensor.

46: new Jeep IAC and aluminum block conversion kit.

47: new and tested megasquirt II 3.0 board setup for direct coil ignition (MSD). Also included are the extra barometric sensors to use for individual throttle bodies.

48: JimStim

Hi all,

I have a few parts listed in Orange Co, CA. Here's the link:

http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/3294612814.html

I'm trying not to ship. I can also bring to Phoenix after Oct 14th. Thanks, Brendan

email sent. Thanks!

Hey everyone,

I'm looking for a pedal box any condition for an on going project; the mounting flange needs to be good though. Is $40 plus shipping good? brendang2000 at gmail

Thanks! Brendan

Thanks everyone!!! I was a little concerned about being able to view the gauges with a smaller wheel, so I think I'm going with a 350mm. Thanks again!!!

Hi all,

I'm going to be changing my steering wheel for an aftermarket but not sure what diameter I'd like to go with. Any chance you can post some pictures of your installed wheel and tell me the diameter? If you know the depth of the dish, that'd be great also. Thanks everyone.

Interested in the front grills. brendang2000 at gmail Thanks!

These are mine but would like to sell local first.

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/pts/2053677445.html

brendang2000 at gmail dot com

Thanks!

Hello,

Is the dash still available? brendang2000 at gmail dot com Thanks, Brendan

Thanks Duke, I certainly will!

Thanks, but I have one in route now.

Hi all,

I'm looking for a good fuel level sending unit as I accidentally toasted mine:( I'm located in Phoenix, but I am in Costa Mesa all the time if you'd rather not ship. Thanks!!!!

With a fully locked diff (spool), the wheels spin at the same speed ALL the time. If you turn, the inside wheel needs to spin slower or else the car can loose control. At least that"s what I hear:)

Hi, im in Phoenix. Looking for the brake booster bracket, part number 34331112637. brendang2000 @ gmail dot com

Hi all,

I'm looking for the bracket that the brake booster attaches to, part number 34331112637. I found a generic 7" booster that might fit, but the mounting is different and want to mock one up before trashing mine. brendang2000 at gmail dot com.

Interested! brendang2000@gmail.com

I have attached an excel file for the locations of each wire. The harness model number is WH1001 and there is one at Jegs for $180, but it says its a 20 circuit while mine is only an 18.

I started this file in Excel and ended it in Open Office, so hopefully you won't have any issues opening it. If so, let me know and I'll just finish it on one computer and re-post.

Hey themoose, I'm in Tempe. I'd like to ask a few questions about your car and the Megasquirt and if possible, see your car. Would you mind and how would be best to get in touch? Thanks all! Brendan

Hey everybody! A while back I mentioned putting an updated wiring harness into my M2 and there was some interest to see how it turned out. Well, I just put a complete front to rear, 18 circuit, generic (GM) style wiring harness into my M2 project and tested all circuits with a test light; read more about testing below. So I’m checking to see if there is any interest in putting an Excel file of what wire goes where and what wire to use for each switch (directional, wiper, etc). It might take a while, but I could also do an AutoCAD drawing; does anybody know how to do a multi-colored line in ACAD2000? Maybe it would help out someone who wants the updated fuses or who can’t afford the BMW harnesses. There are two major things about my car that will be different from most other cars though, so a little about what I did so far.

Well the first big difference is the S14 motor and that it’s going to be Megasquirted. What I have tested here is power for the MS unit itself, coil, electric fan relay, and starter, all with a test light. I am going to be making the engine harness myself and it will be completely independent from the chassis harness, so testing of the gauges and sensors will be done later. The other big difference will be the gauge cluster. I custom made my own panel out of aluminum to fit into the original cluster location and installed new electric VDO gauges, again no testing done here yet. So connecting the oil pressure, fuel gauge, etc into the original cluster will still need to be worked (pinned) out by you.

I bought the harness off of ebay a while back for around $150 new. It had 18 circuits, ATO (blade) type fuses, and connectors for a GM steering column. I’ll see if I can find the manufacturer as they are not currently on ebay. I’m happy for the most part with the harness, but the “installation” manual could definitely use some work; hand drawn pictures are about useless! Each wire is labeled and numbered and this harness appears to be just a generic version of a Painless harness.

As far as testing goes, I used a jump box and connected the main feed of the fuse box input to the positive and the jump box ground connected to chassis. I then went and “used” each circuit to make sure it had power when needed depending on what position the ignition switch was in. I used a test light for most circuits but did have the rear light assemblies installed, so I know for a fact that all directional, hazard, brake, parking and reverse lights work properly. The wiper motor I tested on the bench, again with the jump box. This one drove me nuts for a while until I asked my friend for some help. So the intermittent/auto-park features are working (thanks to Jon!), but I will need to run a wire or two for power/ground in addition to the wiper circuit from the harness.

So let me know what you think, but please, keep a fire extinguisher around because if you burn down your car, garage, life, it’s your fault not mine as this would be “use at own risk”. I’ll try and get some pictures posted of where I mounted the fuse box and pre heat-shrink/expandable sleeving of the wire. Regards, Brendan

I'm also interested as I was about to start putting one together for my car; this would greatly simplify that!

One thing to keep in mind, I grew up in rural NY where the cops had nothing else to do but pull people over (had a friend get pulled over for not dimming his OEM fog lights) and they may not like flashing red lights, especially if it lasts for a long time. Does anybody know how long the motorcycle units flash for? It may be best if this unit can flash for the same time. Just a thought. Brendan

Hi all,

Hopefully someone will be able to help me out. I'm in the process of doing a complete M2 Megasquirt (supercharged?) restoration with bodywork and fabrication almost done. I'm way over budget on the body (no surprise here) and I don't want to be in the poor house getting the S14 rebuilt; we all know how much this can cost. So, what I'm thinking is putting in a M10 until I have the available funds to get the M3 motor overhauled. Should have the funds next powerball drawing!

All that being said, I'm hoping someone in the SoCal, Phoenix, Vegas area has a running M10 with carb, intake, exhaust manifold that they'd be willing to sell cheep. It'd drive (pun) me nuts having the body all done and can't drive it for, what looks like, a while. Advice: don't get rid of anything until your 100% sure the job is done! Thanks! Brendan

Brett, I may be interested if Steven didn't want it. Thanks, Brendan