brendang2000

Hi all,

I got a question about the frame that supports the hood sheetmetal. What is the best thing to use to reattach the rails to the underside of the hood (epoxy, foam?)? My paint store suggested a product by 3M, but I wanted to see what everybody has been using and what kind of luck they had. Thanks!

The fuel gauge is a VDO unit. I havent tried it with the sender yet so I got my fingers crossed. If it doesn't work, I'll figure something out, that's the least of my worries! The speedo is an electric unit, so I'm going to be putting a Hall effect sensor (I think that's what it's called) on the driveline somewhere. I like this way over mechanical as if you change tire size or diff ratio, its easier to adjust; and I'm using the 265 tranny. Also, I can use the sensor to attempt to get cruise control working!

Thanks! I thought about putting gauges in the center section as well, but now I'm not sure I'll have a center section, maybe just a shifter boot.

I'm having trouble finding the CAD file. If I can locate it I'll repost. Sorry guys.

Here's a picture of the "new" cluster for my M2. I thought it'd be a good idea to have updated gauges for the s14. I'm not sure how I want to finish the aluminum, I was thinking a satin finish like the heater control panels, any ideas? The "idiot" lights are from the original cluster and you can still read the letter. I think I still have the CAD file for this if anybody else is interested in making one; you do have to grind the top and bottom to make fit into the old gauge housing.

I have a NOS kidney grill if interested. I bought for my resto then someone did a hit n' run on my front end, so I switched to the old style front end.

Hi all, I'm in need of both front fenders. All I need is the area at the top where it meets the front/core support, so if you have rotten/dented fenders that are good in that area,I'll takem'. My fenders are rust free, but the car was hit in the front and crumpled the area by the core support. I'll also take some completely good fenders if I can't find the partials. Thanks, Brendan

All I can say is if you want stamped steel floor pans, don’t buy theirs. It took months to get and when they arrived I found that they were hand made, not terrible work mind you, but I could have saved the $400 and made my own in just a few days.

Thanks!

Hi all. The valve that connects to the left caliper, is this just a warning light valve, and if so, can I remove it to connect directly to the master cylinder? Thanks, B

ClayW,

I have located a M3 flange, so I'll have that welded on when the shaft is shortened. Thanks, Brendan

Pete,

I'll try to get those specs for you this week, going on vaca and kind of busy, but I'll do my best. B

Hi all,

I’m very slowly doing a S14 swap and ran into a problem with tranny output flanges. I want to use the M3 tranny and this has a 3-bolt flange that is larger than my 320i 3-bolt flange. My question is, does anybody know if the threads are the same on the output shaft, so then I could just swap flanges? I’ve tried searching the forum, but after numerous hours and getting side tracked on other great topics (oil pan, throttle cable, etc), I’ve come up short. This is the closest I came, http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,18669/highlight,265/ Maybe I should just get the front part of a driveshaft from another car and use the M3 output flange? Any thoughts are really appreciated. B

It looks like they have some Porsche stuff that a friend of mine is looking for. I've bought from Autohaus before and they were great, and the BMW parts dept is great also; it's funny how much is still available from the dealer!

Hey everyone, just wondering if anybody bought from or knows about Autobahn Parts out of San Diego? I've talked to John there and he seems nice, but just want to know if I should buy from him or not; I live in Arizona so I'd be buying "blind". Thanks!

This is great, Thanks!

Does anybody know which head (M10) has the most flow? Thanks, B

Has anybody used the return line as a feed? I don't like my fuel inside the car in a plastic tube; I know it works but personal preference.....

The best thing to do if ordering from the dealer is to give them the part numbers; don't make them lookup anything and it might go better. If the retail parts guy still won't help, ask for wholesale parts and try to get some help through them, (definitely don't make them lookup part numbers). If retail starts with “year, model…..”, tell them you have the part number.

Don’t you just love it when you post a WTB ad and somebody replies, but then they sell the item locally after you’ve agreed to buy, or better yet, they just don’t reply at all? Karma will catch up to you eventually. Most times I’ve had pleasant transactions, but as of late, forget it. Anybody else notice this? Cheers!

If I’m not mistaken, it doesn’t matter what the water temp is inside the radiator, it’s what the temp is inside the engine that matters, anybody else agree? A few things I did to help keep my car cool (and I live in Phoenix), was go to the 320 radiator; you can find a good one for cheep in a wrecking yard. Install an electric fan, I removed the stock mechanical fan and installed an electric fan In front of the radiator (I didn’t like the clearance between the fan and pulley), you should be able to fit a 10” fan upfront if you have clearance problems as well; you’ll gain a few HP to boot! Finally install a 170 t-stat, by your last thread; this should be straightforward now.

In the mean time, if your car is running hot, put the defroster on heat with the fan on high; you’ll be surprised how well the heater will cool your car (unfortunately you’ll be sweating). I had an old Honda that the temp switch went out on my way to N.C. and the fan was not turning on, so all I had was the heater for a fan and this kept me in the clear. Hope this helped.

Has anyone ever done a V6 conversion?

Hi all,

I just bought a new set of euro turn signals today (man they look good), and noticed they are for a one wire 1156 bulb not an 1157 bulb, meaning, I would not be able to have running lights and directionals through them. I was wondering what other people have done to rectify this. I was thinking about putting a different socket in them, I should be able to get one through Au-Ve-Co or someone like that. Any thoughts? Regards, Brendan

jf, I had the same problem with my '76, I finally removed one wire off of the pressure switch (the ground). I pressure bled my brakes and have not had any problems with the braking system, so I must be getting adequate pressure; although I don’t have a brake pressure gauge to verify. I suspect that removing the switch will require bleeding of the entire braking system, as you will let air into the system. Hope this helps some, Brendan

Thanks Chris, this will help a great deal in trouble shooting my heater problems. Regards, Brendan