brendang2000

I did the IE Wilwood front/IE disc rear with a stock booster, and felt my pedal was a little soft and had to much travel.  But after driving the car, it doesn't seem to have any issues stopping, it'll pull you out of your seat, and I've gotten used to the travel. However, I did try and figure a different MC and found this website, http://brakepower.com/ maybe it can help you.  Cheers

They had those stupid cameras all over Arizona interstates for a while.  Hardly anybody paid them (only 30% or so I think), and to collect on them they tried sending out a court clerk to serve you, except everyone knew this so wouldn't answer the door.  We don't have them on the interstates anymore thankfully, but there are quite a few in the cities still.

I use the paper type, and only permatex the timing/rear seal areas. No leaks.

My '76 had a brake pressure warning switch, maybe they go to that?  Sorry can't be any more help, I ripped out all the stock wiring.

There's plenty to do in SoCal and you can't beat the weather, but remember about traffic. One trip from Costa Mesa to Westwood went from 1 hour there to three hours back! Try and time your travels to miss the worst of it and remember that weekends doesn't mean traffic won't be there. Have a safe trip and enjoy!!

As others have identified, it's the steering box worm gear.  Thankfully this was from a spare box I was going to rebuild and swap, hopefully the one in my car is good.

Kidding, at least the bushings are still good.

I originally went with one of the race style pumps and could not stand all the noise. Bought the Holley Mighty Mite pump and have no issues, not running a regulator and it puts out 3-4 psi on 3/8" fuel line. There are other manufacturers that make the same style pump.

While I have no input on your issue, my 76 was sort of displaying similar issues. I went and bought a new switch and loved the exact feel of the new part. So my advice is to get the new switch if still available and not horribly expensive. Switch was just over $100 for the '76, not sure what cost is for the '73.

It could be that it just dry rotted away, that is one piece I'm sure gets neglected. When replacing, use new locking nuts and make sure the ground strap that goes from one side of the joint to the other is there. If left out, your horn might not work. Also, the two splined collars that attach to the guibo are side specific. The one that attaches to the box, must stay on that side. Start spraying the area with penetrating oil as it's a bear to get those collars off. When you have the bolts out of the collars, use a large screwdriver or chisel to spread the pinch joint, this will aid in removing the collars.  Good luck!

I just installed my box/column a few months ago, and the splined collars that attach to the rag joint/guibo were different. One HAD to go on the steering box and the other HAD to go on the column's shaft in order to bolt up correctly The splines were the same, but bolting it together there was an issue. Sorry I don't remember exactly what the problem was, it may have been the bolt that passes through one collar, but just keep the collars on the correct side of the guibo snd you won't have to do it twice like I did. Getting those collars off can be a royal pain.

Last time I had one done I did it here: http://www.performanceradiator.com/ and had them upgrade it to a 3-core.  Never had any problems overheating driving in summer.

Funny, I took my original brass/copper one there and they didn't want to touch it. I ended up with the IE aluminum one, pricey, but car runs cool.

If the dash has been removed, it's real easy to get to the screws on top with the glass out.

If you want ignition power, then the relay is the way to go, but If you want constant power I would not use a relay but a circuit breaker. Something like this:

http://www.kayjayco.com/catPCCTBrakrs.htm

They are like a fuse but can be reset or are auto-reset. They also make circuit breakers that can handle the 100 amps, but they're a lot bigger. Wiring would be from the battery to circuit breaker to the fuse block. Keep the circuit breaker as close to the battery as possible. A fuseable link could be another method, but I never went that route. As far as what gauge to use, there are to many variables to say what you need. Check out this website,

http://www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html?material=copper&wiresize=5.211&voltage=12&phase=dc&noofconductor=1&distance=7&distanceunit=feet&amperes=30&x=79&y=7

You'll need to know how many amps the fuseblock will need and distance of the power wire. What ever gauge you use in the settings, make sure the voltage doesn't drop, if it does you need to use a larger gauge.

I never found high amp disconnects that were not huge. They were typically used for forklift batteries and the like. Hope this helps and if you need any ideas, let me know. B

I saw painless has an aux fuse kit. Thought about making it myself. There's one strip for constant power, and one for switched. I'm not sure why there's a relay for the constant powered switch. Any ideas?

fe97dd437ce39768713048ad8caade54.jpeg

This kit sells for $175. I know I can build it for pennies on the dollar, but I need some help understand the purpose of the relays with respect to the constant power strip.

It looks to me like one relay feeds half the fuse block and the other relay feeds the other side, both being ignition power. A single relay would not be able to handle the currant of all those fuses. The "5" amp fuse is to protect the ignition power wire in case it shorts between the fuse block and relay. If the fuse block had battery power, it would most likely have a circuit breaker. Hope that made sense. I've used aux fuse blocks made by some of the big muscle car part suppliers and they worked well and were a lot cheaper than Painless. B

brendang, I had thought briefly about upgrading the fuse block to a newer style, but honestly didn't think it was worth the effort. Most of the original harness is actually in good shape, there are some problem areas, but they can be fixed.  If it were a complete disaster, I probably would have gone the GM/universal hotrod harness route.      What was involved with changing over to a newer ATC/ATO style fuse block? Is it just changing the terminal ends? 

 

Anyway just for clarification, I'm looking to add an additional fuse block under the dash, not replace the original fuse block.

 

Thanks

. Yea, I missed it that you just wanted to add an aux fuse block, sorry. I basically cut the wires off at every switch and soldered the new harness to them. All lights, gauges and electric fuel pump I terminated the new wire and attached, or installed Mollex connectors to make for easy removal. I also removed all original relays and installed Hella waterproof units, which I hid behind the headlights. It's a lot of work!

It is a hell of a lot of work, (I think it took me over two weeks as I soldered and heat-shrinked everything and which I recommend) but you should definitely go for it. Lets face it, the blade type fuses are far superior to the original, and since you're not staying stock, more the better. I also installed all digital VDO gauges. I went with a generic 18 circuit GM harness. It was nice to have the extra circuits for stereo, heated seats, etc. If you need some help adapting the stock switches over, or anything else PM me.

Sorry if I'm butting in to this thread, but it has a picture of the shifter surround I need. Does anybody know what the part number is for that exact piece, RealOEM isn't all that clear. You can reach me at brendang2000@gmail or pm me.

Also, most automotive paint shops will mix any color paint and put into an aerosol can for little $, they charged me $15 for a color match of Inca. I've had good luck with my interior areas when I didn't want to spend the big bucks for a quart of base on areas rarely seen. Beats the hell out of Krylon:)

Console looks great!!!

Funny, I just posted in the off topic section about 3D parts, and then I see this post.  I was in an aerospace/military machine shop last summer were some of my family works, and they were doing stress testing on some 3D printed metal valves needed in flight controls. So it's probably only a matter of time (and cost) until we can have almost any part remade.

While having lunch today with a friend, I mentioned I need the plastic center shifter surround for my car and he thought I could probably have it made with a 3D printer.  While I believe these are still available, it raises the question that if parts are NLA but someone still has that part, couldn't we have them scaned and made again?  I know they are even making metal and flexable parts with 3D printers, so maybe this will happen soon.  Now if only I could afford one, know how to use it and have the part I need to scan.......wait..there's the hole in my plan:)

Just a thought but is the metal shim between the pump and block installed with the oil passage hole on the correct side?

It was. At first I thought I screwed that up, but it was installed correctly. I was able to find a used pump in town, so hopefully I won't have any issues with this one. Thanks for everyone's help!

yes. before and after

might want to take a look into the oil filter and see if any high pressure started to collapse the element before the relief valve jammed. no sense in sending that through the engine. But it seems from your sequence that the pressure relief valve might have been jammed prior to assembly from the previous build.

I did check and the filter looked fine, and I think the valve was jammed prior to my install, wish I would have noticed this before installing:/

Daron, was that a re-grind cam?

I didn't check tolerances as it came out of a running car, and it's not a keeper as the rotor had some junk go through it at some point and scratched everything up. I just wanted to verify operation of the rest of the system with this pump. It's been cleaned to make sure there was no metal left to contaminate the system. The internals were covered in oil but not Vaseline on installation. I'll try some assembly lube to prime it.

Yea, the price of a new 02 pump is hard to swallow. I'd gladly pay the $200 for a new E30/318 pump, but I think they went to a newer design and I won't be able to swap pickups. Dreading selling a kidney for the 02 pump.

Thanks for the diagrams, it gave me a little more understanding.

So I did some testing. With the motor on a stand I was again able to get 30lbs by turning the pump with a drill, but oil started coming out of the pressure valve, 3a in the diagram. I pulled the pump and the piston was stuck down in the tube and I had to use a punch to remove it. I cleaned the bore as best as I could and got the piston to move freely again, but when I assembled it, it stuck again. It seems to be catching on the oil passasge about halfway down the tube. Done with that pump.

Next, I pulled the pickup and installed on an older style pump (3 bolt pully), and this one has no oil pressure at all, it's not even sucking up oil!!! I looked down the pickup, and there is no blockage, so I have no clue what is going on here. I'm very frustrated and hope someone has some insite as to what I should try next. Thanks