robsanab

Well, like i said I could have easily misstated something. When I get closer to conversion time I will bring it up again and do some research of my own in the mean time.

My notes aren't very clear as to exactly which MS he would use... he was saying this and that about this version and that version. He threw too much info at me... it was a foreign language.

tell me more specifics about the miata pack, i haven't seen that mentioned before... Do you just mean 4 separate coil packs from a miata? which year? and why miata? Are they used with a trigger wheel sensor for rpm? The packs would then replace my single coil, crane box and distributor? The MS would take the signal from the trigger and output to this coil pack when to fire? something like that?

That's a pretty good list.

What are you doing for spark? A single coil and the stock distributor? I'm a big advocate of either a miata wasted spark or multiple coils.

I'm curious who your MS guy is and what he is charging you.

his name is Vedran. his company is SpitfireEFI

I don't know if I could explain it to you like he did to me... i just barely understand it. We talked about the multiple coils and trigger wheels, but when he saw I had a Crane ignition setup he said he could control spark from, I think he said, either from the distributor itself or the electronic box. It is a stock daily driver and if/when I need to rebuilt it will be mild.... looking for reliability, better response and good mileage is all.

I can't remember if that is the reason he suggested the MS2 box, which costs more... or if it was for idle control... I told him i wanted reliable cold weather starting.

Because of the more expensive box it would be about $450, otherwise i could save something like a hundred i think. He estimated worst case tuning would be $300... likely less. Can't remember how much for the wiring or if that was included

I found some 318i parts for my FI conversion. In order to tell this guy what I need I have compiled a list from the FAQ and various posts (there's so much info it's get confusing). I’m a little lame at knowing exactly what some of these things are or what they look like. So please let me know if there is anything else that would be nice to have:

Oh, FYI – I am using MS from a local shop who will make the box & wiring harness… so I don’t need those items. According to my MS guy he will need Vacuum sensor, intake air temp, water temp, 02 sensor, TPS (from 02again setup) and RPM out of my Crane box (evidently this can be done with the newer MS).

1) Intake Manifold (do I need the “cold start sensor” on the manifold?)

2) fuel rail

3) injectors and fuel regulator (or is it best just to by these new?)

4) water bypass pipe (Is this the hard pipe that runs under manifold to heater?)

5) water inlet (same as coolant neck?) with sensors

6) As many of the coolant hoses as possible (so I can at least know what shape to buy)

7) throttle cable connector at manifold (although I have seen posts with various other ideas, so this may not help)

8) Intake air boot

As I understand, I don’t need the following for these reasons:

1) throttle body (because I’ll use a 325i)

2) Air flow meter (not sure why. MS will use other means according to MS guy)

3) Intake air controller (I’ll use an 02again adapter with jeep stepper)

4) TPS (I’ll use an 02again adapter for Nissan TPS)

5) Fuel pump (will use other model intank or external)

Is there anything else off this 318i that is good like the battery cable for rear battery mounting and ?

Need to get him a complete list soon, so thanks for your help!

once i figure out how to contact you I'll send you an email...

it looks like I have to join the other forum to get your info?

Interested in Manifold etc for my FI conversion

I use the basic 5555 type shown here at $0.72 each

http://www.prestigewheel.com/Image4502.asp

quick question... I'm in the market as I'm about to buy some new wheels... would a lug nut like 5505 still work? Just a thought, but it looks like this configuration (see that lip or stop on it?) MIGHT prevent the lug wrench socket from marring up the wheel... what do you think?

If so that would be cool... I've had even well meaning tire folks and mechanics mess up my wheels... this might be a good fix??

Whistle was at 40-60mph. It was always on the driver side.

I was talking with someone else about this. He found his by putting masking tape on the body seams and antenna. I want to say it ended up being the hood gap. He readjusted it more flush and the whistle went away.

hmmm... thanks. mine is very specifically at 30 and then at 60... a mph above or below and it's gone. also it just fills the cabin... cannot narrow down where the sound is emanating from... even with having a passenger to help.

I'll try your suggestion when the weather dries up some.

-car had that annoying whistle.

Oh please tell me more...

I have a new seal (although BMW) and I now have a whistle... thought it could be any of the other new seals but never thought of the windshield. It happens at 31 mph and at 60... very odd. Did yours have a particular speed where it happened? It is louder when it's freezing cold (less flexible?) and i know it's not the doors or sunroof because I have tried opening them when it whistles and it doesn't stop it. I also have a small leak on my left foot when it rains really hard.

Does that sound similar to your whistle?

I would love to finally narrow this down... of course because of the leak I will likely have it redone or resealed in some way anyway.

thanks

wait a second... I'm going to bump this... thought about another idea that might make this work...

Aren't there multi-bolt spacers/adapters made that enable you to adjust to various spaced lug patterns? the ATS site shows one but it's in German so I don't know if they apply to the Classic wheel (and I've been trying to get hold of the ATS dealer all day).

Are such adapters available? Because if this wheel has an ET of 25 and yet it's only a 5.5 width wheel (and a 7 inch wheel at 25ET will work), well then doesn't that give you plenty of space to work with before your tire hits the fender??

Sorry, I'm obsessed with this wheel and still wondering if anyone has had a similar wheel application.

never mind... i just found the ATS cut sheet and they don't make the 15 inch in 4X100 which is too bad because they do do 4X130 with a 25ET. The 13's are in 4X100 with the 7's at 20ET and the 8's are 1.

I finally need tires and was about to pull the trigger and get royal silver Rota RB's along with them... which i have always liked even before they got more common (which doesn't bother me).

However I just came across this picture of an Inka Datsun(?)... I usually don't like blacked out wheels but I LOVE these. Have noticed other '02's with old ATS Classics and the similar Cromodora Daytona's but they are too hard to find, especially in 15".

There seems to be only one ATS dealer in the states, Tunershop.com. http://www.tunershop.com/Wheels/13_inches/ATS_Classic_x100_101x_p52814.html

They only list two 13 inch sizes which I don't think I'm interested in... but the ATS website shows a 5.5 x 15 which is what I would want.

Before I called them to see just what's available, I thought I'd first see what the experience is with you folks. Anyone have an idea of what offset I should ask for?

Just because the Rota's are 25ET doesn't mean all other compatible wheels are that size, correct?

EDIT: forgot to add the picture of the ATS's on the orange Datsun (?) or whatever it is...

this is a frustrating topic for me... it's difficult to tell you the best product to buy... I listened and shopped around and ended up with the modified Mercedes brake (190E I think... and from a member here) and they don't work for me. Others have been quite happy. On my car the stops are not at all frim and the stop points aren't the best. I have never had a working stock brake so I don't know how those stops felt... but basically all mine does is to prevent the door from opening too far... if on any slope at all the in between stop don't work well at all.

So, I would go for these Ebay/FAQ ones if I had to do it again... may even be worth getting a pair now... I mean I finally have almost everything functioning perfectly... this imperfection glares in my face every time I open the door.

Just call them and do it over the phone. it's the same price and you even get to talk to a Human. Tell him/her you would like the credit to go to the FAQ they are very good to work with.

great... that sounds simple... good idea, thanks

thanks for this reminder... I almost forgot about it. I was just shopping to buy some BUT...

I am having an issue with this feature though... long story, but I am having to order my tires from my work location (3000 miles away) so that I can get them as soon as I get home... BUT the link (when i click on the banner) is blocked by the administrator for some nazi reason (they will not work with us on these situations).

SO, Steve or anyone, is there a code or something that I can use when I order directly through the website? I'd really like for the FAQ to get a cut.

thanks

Someone on this forum mentioned that sealant ought to be applied on both sides of the seal....

actually, with a new seal, you shouldn't have to. Good seals will... seal!

'nuff sed!

t

As i said mine IS a 'good' BMW seal.

found it... see C.D's quote and others info on windshield leaks here and here... he says the manual mentions sealant.

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,334299/highlight,windshield/

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,334551/highlight,windshield/

(sorry to hijack the thread... i think this is about door seals)

sorry but I'm here to report that my BMW seals aren't much better. I am 2 years into having all BMW seals installed (which includes door and windshield). All 'professionally' installed by my body/paint shop. With the windshield seal I have a leak, I assume from the lower driver's side... hard to say with windshields. It looks good but there are a couple slight 'puckers' or buckles in both lower inside corners. Someone on this forum mentioned that sealant ought to be applied on both sides of the seal.... I don't think this was done, so at this point I'm not blaming the seal, but...

As for the doors... from other cars I've seen, the door frame should fit into the seal more... where you can't as easily see the rivets. Mine fits the same as your photo, again with BMW seals. The body shop guys adjusted the door and my picky self wasn't satisfied so I learned about all the adjustments and was able to tweak it a bit. No air noise or bad leaks but the seal and window just barely seals at the top and back because the thickness of the seal is pushing the wing window frame out too far. And yes, i have to close it much harder than I'd like... the nut inserts for my side mirror I think are loosening... because the set screw on the mirror is tight.

I saw a post several months to a year back where someone ended up shaving some off of their BMW seal in order for that frame to sink in more... someone chimed in to confirm that he had noticed the latest BMW seals had been a bit thicker. I have not gotten to that point, but have lately been thinking about searching for the post again and doing it.

Lee, are you developing stock 02 to recaro seat bracket adapters (for stock adjustable brackets... I see you already have solid race brackets)?? Just sounds here like you may be.

I made my own... look OK and are very solid but not totally happy with them (although i was able to offset them to get the seat closer to centered I would like it further towards the tunnel).

thanks

ALSO, has anyone been able to stabilize the seat with the old tired brackets... or is it the bracket? I have a little too much wobble in my seat.... maybe if i add another one of those roller things with the o-rings if they still make them?

hilarious!!

Thanks... this so perfectly illustrates this thread... once again irony and laughing at ourselves prevails in telling the story.

but damn you... now I'll probably spend this entire afternoon watching their other skits ;-)

Thank you Steve. And thanks for the site.

Ditto.

yes... Ditto 2... thank you Steve.

and you are correct... I was one of many who remain unaware why this topic came up, nor any details of it… I'm still not sure. I may not comment on this forum very often, but I am always very active in perusing and learning from many of the topics. It has given me much and I've been privileged to have helped others out on and off the forum. Some who have helped me the most clearly have different politics than I given the offensive things they post (or shall i say just 'controversial things' since I intend to be non-confrontational). Yet I have read only one previous topic related to this JhC quite a while ago… point being, confrontation and being offensive or offended is usually a choice, especially in this format. For those who do enjoy it (meaning they get something out of it… a rush from anger; debating right from wrong, feeling justification or virtuous) they should realize what they are getting into… likely this has been happening their whole life.

What JhC seems to be demonstrating is that it indeed takes two to tango… or maybe more like the hacker who isn't simply an asshole that wants to screw up your machine… no, he has a 'higher' purpose, to create chaos to demonstrate vulnerabilities or maybe just to create a social commentary that could actually be valuable if we consider it as such (just a suggestion… I'm sure those will disagree who have had their computer seriously hacked).

Maybe this is a little heady… but I can't help but say that this is really quite an applicable study of the human condition acted out in a car forum. As others have implied, an apt metaphor for why we have disagreements and hatred which lead to nations and wars... why we set ourselves up in social groups to either agree to disagree and build an alliance or to alienate or annihilate.

I've considered this air plenum some time ago, but haven't had the desire to try and fab whatever's needed... looks like you do though... try it and please let us know how it worked!

http://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/99217.090.htm

madpaddler... things are very crazy around here with visiting family and my getting ready for a long trip tomorrow. I'm not set up to search for and resize the pictures in order to post them all...

if you'd like, shoot me your email via my email and i can just send all the pictures to you maybe next week sometime... then if you would like, could you post a 'how to'? I would like to help... let me know.

Rob

this is what I did... sorry I've never produced a 'how to' on my installation (I did get the idea from past posts here on the FAQ however... it wasn't a total original idea).

I really like a 3rd light to be up high... I bought this Wolo Model LTB-10. http://www.wolo-mfg.com/light.htm . Check it out... you can't beat the price. It's very thin and light and bright... I've had it for more than a few years now. All i did was to cut and bend some thin metal tabs (from some SS flashing material I had laying around)... painted black, attached them with supplied screws and tucked them up under the rear window seal. The light then fits snug against the window seal. I like the look of it compared to others I've seen and I think it does more good being up high. BTW, I just bought the LED one too... I'm into being seen... just haven't installed yet.

Compomotive 15x7 et 12.

I want these! But are they available in ET25 or so to fit standard wheel wells? If anyone knows where, please tell... been looking/searching without luck.

thanks

When I ran one, I could get into the mid 20's by jetting

down and not driving like a maniac.

But never above about 27 on a trip.

If I lean a 32 out, we've seen 35...

and yes, the valves survive!

hee

t

Toby... would you mind emailing me? I don't want to hijack this thread. I'd like to get your 32/36 jetting setup if you recorded that. I believe it was on a mostly stock M10 wasn't it?

long story short... I bought a new 32/36 with CD's prescription years ago and although it runs great, it's not THAT much better performance wise than the stock carb I had (which was leaking a little air around throttle shaft is all)... but I get horrible gas mileage compared the old carb. These guys with 38's are getting much better than I. And yes, everything is either new or checked out and timed by an '02 pro... I just haven't gotten around having him play with the jets for improving MPG. Plus the car was just restored with engine out and everything was replaced and gone through once again... and still no change in MPG. The odd thing is that there are no symptoms of it running horribly rich... plugs last quite a while... no over the top gas smell... starts good cold and hot... actually if nose is pointing up hill it does tend to act a bit flooded upon warm start... but not like i have to floor it to get it started.

Anyway (sorry, that wasn't so short after all)... I was just thinking that maybe you have a good base line to start from other than stock jetting... I can at least get it close so he's not swapping jets and tweaking for hours ($$$)... or I may do it myself.

I wonder what made IE change from what they previously had to the two muffler resonator set-up. What they offered a ways back was a 4 inch round resonator with a 6" round rear muffler (what I currently still have and is perfect in every way for me). All these items are still available through Magnaflow and Dynomax in SS or Aluminized... there's a thread with the details somewhere.

Of course mine was before they made a kit (which is the issue here)... but for a couple hundred the muffler shop kid did a good, and quick, job and I have plenty-o-clearance... even with it being 2". I tend to think IE's resonator setup may be complicating things. It just looks huge... long and heavy... I think my 4" round is only like a 14 or 18" case. I don't see the need for two there. I mean my setup is very quiet... at idle it's about just as quiet as stock with a tad more growl when you step on it.

I know you said your budget's tight, but you might try Ron Ager for either assistance or parts... he's the '02 bellingham man. He very well may have a selection of heads etc if that's what you need.

find info at:

http://www.northwesteuropeanautoworks.com/

I don't think I've seen you around... what color are you? I'm the 75 Inka with five spoke wheels... usually a Yakima rack.

Note too Ron's annual car show at the Depot on Aug 22nd.