robsanab

I'm having the same problem but mine sticks right off the start from idle position. To isolate where it is coming from disconnect the linkage from the carb and see if the carb linkage alone is smooth... that is how I found my carb was doing the sticking... my prob is that I can't figure out why it's sticking... i tighten the nut and it sticks... I loosen the nut and it sticks... I take the nut off and it is fine. and it's a pretty new carb... so it shouldn't be the throttle plates. good luck on yours

thanks for the offer! may get with you if I follow thru with this. right now it is looking like more of a project than I already have... BUT it's an M20!

still asking him some questions and getting pictures... A guy who frequented this forum (marco) was the PO and did the conversion. oh wait, this car is now in Kelowna... that's a ways from you.

just read that there is no way to get the speedo to work with the tranny it's got... 325i had sensor in diff... hmmm. I suppose I'd have to find an aftermarket electronic speedo and figure out a custom instr panel?

Oh hey... while I've got you... who is a good 02 mechanic in Vancouver? A while back a friend refered me to Euro Otto Sport (a guy named Otto) in port coquitlum.... heard of him?

there is this car i'm looking into... was wondering if any of you guys did this M20 conversion. The current owner told me he bought it a few years ago (i think) from someone named Marc who he believes did the conversion. Anyone familiar with this car? I would like any history you can provide. Thanks! Rob

Here are some more details:

-red

-he says it needs paint and panel rust work, but the chassis is solid with no issues

-looks like the rear wheel well lips have been cut out (what, for future flares?)

-1989 M20 and tranny out of 325i

-3.64 LSD

-black, basket weave type wheels (he says aussie made Simmons?)

-big volvo radiator with custom stainless fan shroud

anyone use eastwood anti-rust or similar? I'm NOT talking about the Encapsulator. It is a "waxy, oily coating that seals the surface from contact with moisture and air." (check it out on their website). Sounds like a good product for those areas that you don't want to or can't paint...like inside lower door, inside of a frame rail etc. Requires no prep work. I know the ideal thing is to remove or cut away rust, then properly prep, prime and paint. But I'm talking about those places that are difficult to properly cover with a paint product.

I mean that is all that POR15 and other encapsulator paints do.... as long as air and moisture doesn't get to rust it won't spread.

what yall think? any experience?

clean the inside of the panel really good and just get the wedge lights that are rated for 5w instead of the stock 3w. It's really nice... the 5 watt upgrade won't overload or overheat anything (do you have an alternator upgrade? that helps with light brightness as well) and much cheaper than the PIAA's (which i believe are 5watt).

not exact problem... my brand new CD jetted carb runs fine and has no signs of running very rich but my gas milage has been horrible... my old worn out stock jetted 32/36 got 20 in city and 25 on freeway. With my new setup I'm getting 11-13 around town and around 20 on freeway!! can't figure it out since everything is new and timed properly and running smooth. I am NOT running it harder either (as CD suggested). I'm about to reset the float and maybe start changing jets to see what's going on.

with your situation though... sounds like a stuck float... not the jetting

thank you very much... but I think the pre-73 MAY have a different one. OR do you know it is the same? or anyone? I know other wiring is different. let me know. send me an email.

I think you are right... the picts I've seen of the ignition assy includes this switch.

I see. yep, looks like this is what I need. If I force the terminals over (the two terminals, each with a pair of green wires going to them) the car dies. also if I leave the car off but keep the ignition switch on, I can hear the relay that is attached to a plug and that has some common ignition wires attached to it click on and off.

Targa2002, I sent you an email

I have narrowed my eletrical problem to, I THINK, the switch. There are two sets of green wires going to the ignition switch to terminals sitting side by side. When I pull at these wires the car dies. The wires themselves look good, the terminals and their insulation is still pliable but browned and chafted a bit... I wrapped them with tape thinking there might be a short between them... but that didn't work. So I am thinking of taking the two screws off the back of the ignition switch to see if something is loose or touching internally between those two terminals... but I'm worried about getting it back together if something decides to pop out of it.

Does anyone know what I'll find if I pull the those back terminal cover off the switch?

thanks

Rob

on my '75 there is a relay (round can) that is attached to the ignition plug under the dash. In other words, all the various wires from the ignition switch go to a plug, on the other side of this plug is this relay. What does it do?

I have had some odd, intermittent electrical problem... the car will be running great and then just turn off like the key is switched off... sometimes several times in a row I will try to restart it and it fires while the engine is cranking but dies as soon as I stop cranking. Once it starts and stays running I may not have the problem occur again for a day or two.

I have a 2 year old Crane XR700 ignition with their coil and I've checked many of the connections at the switch and associated coil terminations... all seems well. The ignition switch is old and worn enough that I can take the key out while it's running. I've tried to replicate the condition by jiggling the key, but the problem doesn't reoccur... so I'm thinking the switch may be OK

Any ideas? This is driving me crasy!

Thanks

Rob

before I post these for sale or give away... I was wondering if they're even of need to anyone or just junk. I just replaced my '75 seats with Recaros and was wondering if there is a need out there for old seat frames.... with some original blue vinyl on them in good condition.

The horsehair is about gone; the passenger seat vinyl (dark blue) is actually intact and looks good since they have always had seat covers on them; the drivers seat is ripped in in center section is all; the headrests are very good; all metal is surface rusty from the moisture holding horsehair; the latches need to be cleaned up to work better; the plastic seat trim pieces are non existent.

or here's a thought... seamsperfect Al... I am just across the border from you... would it be an asset to have some old frames in store?

whadya think?

thanks,

the poster formerly known as robvert (sounded too perverted)