robsanab

hardy har har

I'll have you know I got sunburnt again yesterday... mr smartypants

having a nice little indian summer... ok pretty cool, but sunny

very interesting... what do you think about this...

my distributor cap contacts get black as usual but they also get this green growth on them. This occurs right there with the standard black wear marks.

Knowing copper gets green when corrosion sets in, I was thinking maybe my spark is not hot enough for some reason and therefore something is wrong with my Crane XR700 (with PS20 coil) ignition system (although the engine runs great and it's been installed for over two years now).

I then talked to the Crane Tech and he said that is exactly what it is... corrosion... only just the opposite condition... the spark is plenty hot. In fact so hot that it is causing vapor in the cap and hence the corrosion. THEN he told me that I need to "vent the cap". He said it's not uncommon to do this in race applications and that they'll just drill a small hole IN the CAP. I said, "but what about a street engine and protection from water and condensation getting IN the cap". He said not to worry. I asked him about putting a small hole in the silicon that I used to secure the wires when I installed the Crane unit. He said that could work. He said a very small hole, like 1/16", might do the trick.

I am a little confused and uncertain because I always thought you wanted a very well sealed distributor so you wouldn't get condensation and dirt in general in there. But maybe newer high powered ignition systems have some sort of venting designed in them.

Interesting huh? What do you think? anyone else experience this?

as for your question... getting a hose to the carb... there should be a hose nipple coming off the head or valve cover (can't remember which... sorry the car isn't here right now) that your current breather filter is attached to. I see you have a cool looking redline aircleaner... I'm not familar with that one, but on my chrome weber aircleaner, made for a K&N filter, there is a hole in the bottom and a nylon 90 degree fitting... one end screws on to the base of the aircleaner... the other end is a hose nipple. connect a hose between the two. I have a pretty large diameter (1/2"??) heater hose... because it can get clogged up especially if you live in cold climes.

Pierce manifold should have this setup... but that redline looks cool, I'm sure you could modify it to work.

Do it... I'm all for recirculating the nasties.

hope that helps

right... if you already have the headers, look locally for an outfit that powder coats and such, they will many times be set up for ceramic coating as well... i just got the headers for my mustang (which means two 4 tube headers) for something like $170. AND they offered many more colors and finishes (note: some wear better than others). I didn't like the shiny chrome or the dull grey... i picked something in between.

jet coat does have a good rep if you go that route

all points taken... I do realize there are many variables… and I feel I’ve taken them a lot into account (I didn’t mention that I have a 3.64, I’m at sea level, and the float is plastic and is what CD’s 40mm is based on, etc.).

Winstontj- your items 1-4 are affirmative… problem is I’ve taken my foot into account as well… that is the one variable I am able to monitor frequently and quite accurately I might add… IT is NOT because I put my foot into it MORE.

Slav and Winstontj…. True, I don’t believe everyone’s calculations, which are wildly varied (just like the condition of these cars), but it’s not based on anyone’s calculations… this is from my experience. Whether I figure gas mileage correctly or not, it was figured the SAME way BEFORE and AFTER the carb change (And with the same tires if that matters… and I always check my air pressure… besides will that make a 7mpg difference?).

Slavs- it is possible to get a fairly accurate MPG… I did it by verifying my speedo was indeed correct… even noticing on long trips that the odometer was very close… and then not going strictly by the odometer guesstimate method but actually logging what went into the tank and what was used… not by tank size/fuel gauge estimating. Again, with the old carb I got much better MPG.

Old carb: 20-27

New carb: 16-20 (2-3 less with the float at 40mm)

It is stated by CD that this is a performance upgrade that can get as good or maybe better gas mileage... mine plummeted significantly. Yes, he does say IF you can keep your foot out of it… I’ve already addressed that one.

So, I don’t think my expectations are too high… I stated what I was getting with the old carb and with the new carb… my average went from 25 to 18. That was the drop due to changing out the carburetor.

BTW… I’m not here blaming CD prescription necessarily… I’m just putting this out there, with the interesting experience about the float level change to see if that makes sense to anyone or if someone may know what condition may cause that to happen. I thought it might be telling. Maybe there is something wrong with the new carb? Maybe it points most definitely to a vacuum leak or other. I’m trying to avoid taking it off and shipping it back to Pierce… it’s my only car for awhile… and it’s getting to be wet season… damn.

choke is OK... fully open when warmed up and I'm at sea level pretty much.

As stated I have gotten pretty good MPG with my previous 32/36... so I have a good reference point. I know how to figure gas mileage and my speedo is right on according to the mile marker method.

a lot of gas???

for those with C.D.'s prescription... I discovered something very interesting and perplexing. I am getting very poor gas mileage... this is with a brand new carb. The tech at Pierce Manifold recommended I start by resetting the float from 40mm back to stock 35mm. I did so and was then able to adjust both the idle screw and the mixture screw right within spec per Weber's and other literature's recommendations. Not that what I had was that far off... both were only about one half turn out further than the maximum recommended. Engine still runs the same but my gas mileage improved quite a bit.

My problem is STILL very poor gas mileage however. My previous 32/36 was stock jetted and leaked air around the throttle plate shaft. With it I still had decent throttle response... decent, but rough idle... no flat spots that folks talk about... and I was able to get 19-20 city and 25-27 highway with a 4 sp. Now with this new carb: Resetting the float enabled me to reset and fine tune the screws as stated above and my gas mileage improved a solid 3 mpg city and 2 mpg freeway... I now get about 16 around town... 20 combination and 22 all highway (and yes, with electronic ignition, new ignition parts and tuned/timed. Not too long ago the valves were adjusted and compression was good and even among cylinders). Not very good mpg considering I don't drive her very hard... and what others of you seem to be getting. I have even tried full tanks driving like a grandma and it doesn't improve. Also I didn't experience a significant increase in power going from my old carb to the new carb with C.D. jetting. The reports I hear from you all is that this setup should get 20-28 (and that includes spirited driving) and that it kicks ass compared to the stock jetting.

Point is: I get significantly worse gas mileage than my old leaky stock jetted carb.

I'm thinking about going back to the stock jetting... and starting fresh from there... unless someone else has another suggestion. I was just hoping that The Prescription would have been a nice place to start and then tweak from there.

I mainly wanted to report to yall the difference the float level made in my instance. Why is that? What's going on? I have no vacuum leaks that I can find. I found some leaks and plugged them up AFTER replacing the old carb... so if anything I have fewer now than before at least. I don't know why my new carb can't work efficiently at the 40mm float setting. So maybe my compression is lower than ideal? I am not creating as much vacuum to justify C.D.'s 40mm float spec?? My spark plugs aren't telling... they seem to show everything is as pretty good.

were not talking HID... these are an H4 conversion like the Hellas but with a reflector to spread the light beam rather than a refracting lens.

True though, you can get good or poor quality when it comes to these... over on the Vintage Mustang forum some folks that have used some cheap ones were not happy with them. Others have tried the similar 'tri-bar' ones from some reputable suppliers and have liked them. I just want good quality photometrics... a standard 55/60 lamp in a quality fixture will outperform an el cheapo fixture with a high wattage bulb and will blind everyone else to boot.

i noticed it too. might handle like a whale but looks a hell of a lot better than any electric vehicle I've seen.

I'm curious too... any one know more about this car?

hmmm, sanding... i could even make a block out of something in order to block sand the molding while it's on the car... since I'll be doing this just before taking it off for painting anyway. That may prove to be as easy or easier than using a bench grinder with a buff wheel. Sanding it off the car might get to be a pain due to difficult handling and the chance of bending it.

and that POR stuff looks pretty good for other applications as well... may give it a try... and try it on my shiny car too.

thanks for the ideas!

I've read a lot of discussion here regarding how to clean and polish the upper bright moldings... sounds like a pain with varying levels of success. My molding has few dents... they are mainly just scratched and very dull. It is on a white daily driver. I am not a big shiny chrome kind of guy... I prefer painted silver and satin finishes typically.

So, what I'm getting at is that I would like to save money by not buying new molding (last time I priced it out it was like $500 plus). Rather, I'd like to take a light wire brush on a grinder/polisher maybe and run the molding through it length wise giving it a satin finish ... kind of like the stainless steel appliances that are all the rage these days.... bright and metallic only not shiny or polished.

Questions:

1) Would this work?

2) What tool would you use to accomplish this?

3) Is there a quality coating to put on it afterwards in order to prevent oxidation?

i like those...was wondering how the pattern is compared to e-code lamps. look forward to your report.

Yowza! those are some high wattage lamps it comes with! your new wiring with the relays may be able to handle them but with a standard DOT shot-gun dispersement of the light beam make sure you have them positioned so as to not to blind oncoming traffic. May be a bit too much.... you may have to get standard wattage... mine are standard wattage but with Hella e-code lamps, still a great improvement.

don't know him... is he an 02 guy? (silver blue or red?)

no, the valve is new and works fine... and yes, the bracket is broken off too but the short peice of heater hose keeps the valve where it belongs... the lever will work fine once I get this pin.

oh i see, I thought it required another unavailable piece... great! sounds easy... thanks for the info.

and thanks Blunt, i'll let you know... I have to get some other stuff from Bav Auto I think... so I may just get it all together in one shot... if not I'll get with you, I am going to need some more seals from you eventually, but it looks like not for awhile.

I'd call it a 'heater valve lever pin or bolt'. It attaches the end of the 'heat on' cable to the heater valve lever. It's been a couple years since this broke off and if I remember correctly it was a bolt or pin with a hole in it... then a nut and some other special washer would clamp down on the end of the cable wire and enable the assembly to swivel on the lever to open and close the valve.

I have not figured out a way to make this work again... there is not much room to make up something elaborate. I'd like to be able to regulate my heat this year. Any suggestions that have worked for you???

BTW, I have no dealers in my area so I don't know if it's still available... but it is shown in realoem.com (figure 64/6, Item 7, P/N#64114674219). Even if it is available, the special washer to make it all swivel isn't even listed.

thanks

haven't tried him myself, but when I asked some canadian co-workers with spiced up old Bimmers and Vdubs, two of them recommended this guy... i talked with him and he seems cool and quite familiar with our 02's...

Euro Otto Sport

Otto Hotz

in Port Coquitlam

look up the number... can't find it.

What was your experience? I installed polyurethane bushings in the alternator last night (a one year old AL41X that blew the large rubber bushing). Install was successful, however in order to get the curclip back on to the sleeve I had to leave off one of the 2 flat washers. The flatwasher at the curclip end I left on... the other end of the sleeve has a pretty good shoulder on it already, so I left it off that end. Do you think that will work OK? In order to get both washers on I would have to grind down the end of the bushing that sticks out by at least 1/16". Wasn't sure if I should do that. What was your experience?

Thanks

(how did you get that picture into MY post? looks like I attached it there)

OK but now yall are confusing me... I trust C.D. as THE original BMW part kind of guy... but he says "KRAP".

C.D. - as they say, it appears to be genuine BMW... so what gives? can this be or is it repackaged incorrectly? or what? maybe I don't understand what 'genuine' means.

This is serious... I will spend more money on a quality part... I don't want to be duped into believing that this is 'genuine' when it is not. I'll see what Bav Auto says... but I have a feeling they won't know (when I called to check on my order the other day, the guy was rather testy and unhelpful).

anyone else? has anyone used this pump?

this is odd... this morning I noticed the Bav Auto sticker was laid over another sticker... which looks like an official BMW sticker with part number and "made in Germany". Are you sure it's a cheap aftermarket? That is not only mis-advertizing by showing a different picture, but it's also false labeling.

please double confirm and i will send it back.

thanks

just bought this from Bav Auto... the sales guy of course couldn't tell me when i ordered it what brand it was. I thought I was safe and that they were all by Pierburg... this one doesn't look like the Pierburg's I've seen.

It's pretty heavy and looks well built. as you can see it appears to be rebuildable. the only writing on it is a number '71802853' and a circle with an 'E' in it. good price at 89 bucks!

So my questions... what brand is this? is it a good one? any experiences with it?

so the fuse blew twice... I check the obvious places... I took off my suspect front signals for one is old as the internals are cracked.... found a couple smashed wires... nothing real bad... taped up one wire and re-terminated all the connections... I checked the rear signals... wires and all look perfect. Looked under the dash at obvious chafing points along the route to the flasher unit... my wiring looks really good. Thought I fixed it because I turned the key and alternated between the hazards and turn signals for awhile... I even ran the engine with the same test... fuse held fast. Now this morning I start up and drive to my first stop sign, use my signal and the fuse blows immediately.

Are there any typical problem areas here? what would cause the fuse NOT to blow when the car is sitting, only to blow when driving?? coincidence only?

any help would be appreciated... this is driving me crazy

you could try that first.... because the scorpion is suppose to be a good muffler... get a 4"round magnaflow or equal muffler say about 16-18" long (can't remember all the sizes available... but too long like a +20" might be difficult to fit).... have them place it as forward as possible and see if that mellows it out. If it's not good enough replace the scorpion with the 6" magnaflow and you have the ireland set up... by the way... what ireland sells them for is very good... just get the kit and try it one piece at a time. If you don't need the 6" it won't be a huge loss... could probably even sell it through this forum. If it's still too loud for you... you realize the headers will probably have to go?

yes number 3. I have taken off all the linkage to isolate the problem to be at the carb. I THINK I know what your talking about... i will try that. Just didn't think that would be an issue on a brand new carb.

So what your saying is... take the carb linkage off, all the way to the carb body and whatever washer or bracket that is up against the carb MAY be what's sticking? IF so add a plastic washer or something fictionless between the carb body and the carb linkage?

Thanks

I know!... another linkage sticking post! But this takes a new turn from what I've seen...

It's a new 32/36 weber installed 7 months ago... the throttle has just started sticking badly in the idle position... I have taken off the linkage to verify it is indeed the carb and NOT the linkage or pedal. If I tighten the carbs throttle shaft nut as I should (finger tight and then a bit more in order to bend the tap to the flat side of the nut), it sticks really bad and will not idle down (because it is stuck)... I loosen it and it still sticks a bit... the only way it won't stick is if the nut is way too loose and all the washers are loose, but then I lose throttle response and my idle is erratic and of course something will wear badly.

I have adjusted it every possible way... used lube... taken it off and checked for throttle plate bind. Anyway I adjust it, it is a huge PITA to drive.

talked to the Pierce Manifold tech and as helpful as they usually are, he just told me to send it to them and they will check it. That is a hassle and cost... any one have any ideas?

yes... just put the ireland kit on (it is now two magnaflows- a 4" and 6" aluminized)... not loud or droning at all... very close to my old stock setup only a bit more throaty (nice)... noticable breathing difference... looks and fits good... very pleased.