robsanab

just received a mirror (w/map lights) and was wondering about two features of it...

1) there is a knob on the stalk that screws in and out (with a screw head in the center). Thought it might be to tighten against the window, but it's hard plastic and not cushioned in any way. Another function?

2) there is a rectangular rubber grommet around the stalk... was this something that was only needed on E30 cars. I was just going to cut it off but thought I'd ask if there was something useful I could do with it.

ALSO, after a search I'm confused at what folks have done to make the sun visor work... is there a visor from a particular model that fits with using existing mounting holes??

a leak. That is kinda unusual--my '69's OEM pump lasted something like 20+ years before dying, and I was able to rebuild it with a VW fuel pump rebuild kit--when they were still available from VW.

You did, of course make sure the preipheral screws were good and tight, as well as the cap that covers the filter screen. If the cap is loose and/or the gasket is bad, that will cause the pump to leak.

cheers

mike

duh, actually i didn't... I'll go out and check now... thanks for the info.

Has anyone got info on just which kit to get? Like I said I see the one in realOEM, but it would be neat to find a local VW one to try... maybe cheaper too.

Yes, i thought this was way premature... I haven't owned the car since the beginning but I believe the pump I took off 5-6 years ago was on there since '85-ish... obviously the older type without the peripheral screws.

I have purchased both a hood and tail panel raised metal roundel in the last few years....check with Mr. Blunt

yes i believe both those are still available... but last time i checked the trunk roundel for 74-76 was still not available in raised metal... thought I'd ask to see if that had changed since Ken was looking in.

there are basically 2 types of hood roundels. the "3d" type with raised lettering, #19:

http://www.bmwmobiletradition-online.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=6235&mospid=47248&btnr=51_3905&hg=51&fg=25&hl=20

but still no metal, raised letter type roundels for the trunk is that correct? That's the one I'd like. I may try to restore my old one, but I suck at painting for some reason.

Italian aftermarket replacements, try a place that specializes in air cooled Beetle parts--VWs of the same era use essentially the same fuel pump, and the rebuild kits interchange.

If it's an Italian pump, you might try making a new diaphragm from fabric-reinforced neoprene sheet. Otherwise you're SOL.

yes it's a pierburg. I don't mind spending the money... just want to know if a diaphragm is all that's usually needed and if it's reliable fix. i was just surprised this guy leaked so early... a bit discouraging.

my fuel pump is leaking out the weep hole (bottom half of pump). It is a newer pump (low miles, maybe 5-6 years old?), it is the type with the screws around the unit in order to change out the diaphragm.

Since I need to get her back on the road I am going to buy a new pump and have it shipped 2nd day. But I would like to rebuild this one as a spare.

1) has anyone had success rebuilding these?

2) when it leaks through the weep hole, is that just a hole in the diaphragm or something else as well?

3) since it's a newer pump, can I just replace the diaphragm? (item 7)

4) how long should a pump last?

I notice there is a rebuild kit too, but it's less than 30 bucks shy of a new pump, plus like I said, this pump doesn't have many hours on it.

here's the diagram:

http://www.bmwmobiletradition-online.com/bmw/partgrp.do?model=2214&mospid=47140&hg=13&fg=10

thanks!

oh and a clarification on item #2 the air temp sensor... I know one is required but I am unsure of what it is... where it's located?

isnt there a map sensor onboard with megasquirt? all you have to do is run a vaccume line from the megasquirt box to the intake manafold?

Yes there is.

now this is getting convoluted... are you guys answering the question about my item #1 vacuum sensor? which i assume is the reading for the MAP? If so, does that mean I just take a vacuum hose from the manifold straight to the MS box since the latest MS version comes equipped? Don't need the MAP Daddy kit mentioned above?

I'd also ask the guy who is installing the system what he wants. That's what I did. I got a shopping list and got to work.

I did ask the MS tuner guy and this was the list he gave me, hence the questions on two items I’m unsure about since I don’t see them mentioned anywhere.

I have read, I am trying to understand what I read by asking questions. Additionally, this Tuner is not totally familiar with this application or what’s available sensor wise for our cars... why am asking here.

How about giving me your list!?!?! I have that fine post from slash02 from early last year with a great summary of parts and pieces... but as I said these were a couple questions that still linger for me.

Goto 02again.com and click on link for presentations, alot of stuff to read up on, have fun and post results,

Frank

I have read up on things (not that I understand it all, but I’m trying to, hence these questions). As I said that is why I am questioning these two inputs that my MS guy mentioned because I haven’t read about them. Is no one else using them? Is there a way to provide them if it would help the computer?

I was told by the MS tuner who I plan to hire to help with my EFI conversion (with the 318i set-up) that I need the following inputs (I am not familiar with all the lingo, but he’s talking about the greatest and latest Megasquirt software):

1) Vacuum sensor

2) Intake air temp

3) Water temp (318i water inlet)

4) O2 sensor (bung on downpipe)

5) TPS (jeep stepper motor)

6) RPM (will use hall sensor on crank)

1st question, I am gathering all my parts and I’m unsure about where #1 and #2 come from? Not seeing these discussed in previous posts. What are the drawbacks if I don’t have these inputs? He seemed to indicate that the above inputs were the minimum.

2nd question… I’m also a little fuzzy on what is required spark wise… I am wanting to go with the coil on plug LS1/LS2 Yukon coil setup that others have done. Will the 36:1 trigger wheel/hall sensor work for this now that MS has outputs to drive coil per cylinder?

If not, is the next best option to go wasted spark with a coil pack? I have a Crane XR700 but don’t mind going another route in order to eliminate the distributor or other parts that could go bad.

This is for a reliable daily driver with mild engine, so I know the individual coils are overkill, still from the discussion here it seems to be worth it due to all the available advance, plus I don’t mind spending a little more if there are other benefits such as eliminating ignition modules or such.

was considering ITB's for my future EFI project, until I read this member's blog...

http://77e21.info/megasquirt.htm

after some more research I've decided to go with the less sexier 318i route... my main goal is reliability/driveability since I drive it all the time in a variety of conditions. Doesn't sound limiting in your circumstance... but probably not a whole lot more power than a 38/38 when set just right from what I've read. Of course you know the other advantages to EFI.

I would recommend using sealant. I had my new BMW seal and lockstrip installed by a pro and I had a bad leak when raining... took it in to another shop to find there was no sealant used. This guy did a great/clean job of applying sealant both in the body side and window side grooves and now all is well. Since that episode I think it's good insurance to just make sure they use sealant.

yes, the shifter bar is fixed up nice... everything looks aligned and tight... no awkward angles or anything. put back together easily. I do plan on calling/emailing Dave about it.

for those interested... I did talk to aardvark Dave and he confirmed that he indeed had some "bad" shifter links a few years ago (which is when i bought my kit). What happened with mine was typical, the pressed in pin wasn't pressed in properly. He said my fix of properly welding it up was his fix as well... the last replacement had been sent out a long time and so he thinks that's the end of the bad batch. He reports no problems since that batch.

So, i will try to shift with gusto without worry that it will break again. My mechanic did a real nice weld/grind job on it and all related linkage appears in good shape and in alignment.

really like this idea... I'll try to keep it in mind as i do things (of course i don't have a decent video setup at the moment).

something like that would have come in handy while i was working on the mustang last week. I could not find anything online or even in shop manuals about removing the heater blower switch... and it's very difficult to see what's going on up under that dash. I put it off for months and when i did finally get to it, it took a good couple hours just probing around and removing other items in order to get a small mirror positioned to see how the switch and all was attached. A video or some pictures would have saved me hours and I would have gotten to the project sooner as well.

^^ I've seen a few of the DSSR rods brake as well. There is no cure all if something in there is misaligned.

Have you looked under the car yet? Have you called Dave at Aardvark?

if those break then there is no hope... maybe that's why everything is electronic now.

yes, the shifter bar is fixed up nice... everything looks aligned and tight... no awkward angles or anything. put back together easily. I do plan on calling/emailing Dave about it.

Best way to go would be a custom-length DSSR. UUC might make them in arbitrary dimensions, but you'd have to call/email to find out... or get a machinist to make one, since they're just lathed and machined round stock.

http://www.nexternal.com/uuc/articles/SSK-DSSR.htm

cool product... looks like that would be THE fix, albeit likely pricey for a custom one. I will look into that. May be worth it for the piece of mind.

In the meantime I dropped it off to my mechanic guy and he had a couple ideas... he's going to drill thru the bar stock and the pin in order in insert a roll pin... then he will weld not only the end of the pin but try to get some weld around the shoulder of the pin.

read this thread for other reports of problems with Aardvark shifter parts and possible solutions:

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/p,870307/highlight,/#870307

wow, perfect, thanks! I have this broken shifter bar right here and about to take it somewhere. I'm not sure what you mean by drilling it out but I do see how the welds seem to be just at the end of the 'pin' only... somehow it needs more surface to weld... I'll try and track down a good welder guy.

isn't this just a shortened stock piece? or is this truly a problem with the way aardvark puts this part together??

and good point in the other post... should do this to both pins.

thanks for bringing this up... i would have never found that post.

Dmitriy - thanks, just what I need to know to look for.

CD - sorry for the whining, but not having worked or looked at this before I always find it helpful to have some words of wisdom and/or a diagram. Like, "if this happened, I found it possible to fix it with this", etc. This is not a problem i want happening again when I'm on a steep hill in the middle of seattle a hundred miles away.

I'll be sure to post again soon if I'm flabbergasted after i look at it.

Just went out to start the car and go out on the town, and hell, my shifter went floppy… fortunately just as i was leaving the driveway. Since it's late and cold and dark I won't be looking at it until tomorrow morning. Are there any typical linkage problems that i should look for?

I have an Aardvark 5sp conversion. Is there anything usual about his shift platform and parts, because this happened before about two years ago a couple months or so after my mechanic did the installation. I took it back to him of course and so I don't recall just what the issue was.

I'm surprised to see just circlips in the realOEM diagram. If it's one of those clips that popped off, what is usually the reason… something misaligned?

any input would be appreciated so that I can hopefully see the issue and fix it first thing in the morning… and if I can fix it so this doesn't happen again. Oh man, I'm not looking forward to this if it is raining tomorrow.

I'd keep them in bags from now on if I were you.

I thought you meant the cats... that's what I'd bag.

just what you need in FAQ...

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/content/view/19/32/

also, you will notice it has some metal reinforcement to I assume enable you to 'crimp' it to the door edge... didn't work real well for me, fell off... for the cost of those little suckers i re-installed mine with a bit of Wurth Rubber cement... so far so good.

i did CD prescription too just for fun, and it ended up way rich. i had to reduce the jetting much to the point it is almost as it was before.

fwiw, i went from 170 main 2nd to 165. WOT afr went from 11.5-11.7 to 12.2-12.5, way much better and the car flies.

took 1st air jet from 145 to 160 just to see how far it would affect the uber rich condition before transition (10:1 sometimes !!)

I guess i could use 155 instead of 160 to richen it up a litle from 14 to 13.8

So, your idle circuit was pretty good? That sort of makes sense in my case as well. The rich condition is in the transition. That’s why I am suffering mostly around town (mpg is much worse there than on hwy) and yet my adjustment screws seem to respond properly within spec.

Pat, to reiterate… you changed only the following:

1) Primary air correction from 145 to 160 (or as you said 155 could do it)

2) Secondary main jet from 170 to 165.

3) no change to the secondary air?

4) no change to the primary main?

That is beautiful! If that yellow/beige was Inka I'd buy one from you… really. Is that free hand, template, or WHAT. Very pretty… reminds me of a well done tattoo, both masculine and feminine.