robsanab
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Posts posted by robsanab
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when your weather cools down to 30's - 55*F temps, and damp-
your power will be mint given all the data so far.
your MPG's highway agree with my car - 25 - 26 at 70-80 MPH
if you want MPG's to improve city, partial throttle, and idle?
then play with the primary AIR and MAIN jets
secondary jet changes only if high rpm (above 3500rpm with 1/2, 3/4 to full throttle fast sport driving) power is 'off'
CD… please clarify or elaborate if you would. Specifically which way should I go with each of the primary air and main jets? I’ll get a variety of each in that direction.
I disagree with you that everything will be mint during our wet winters… as I said I’ve lived with this through several seasons… the weather does not make a difference. Over this time I’ve also had my pro, who knows ‘02’s and webers, tune it a time or two… so I know it isn’t due to my lack of skill or knowledge. And to the contrary, the gas mileage doesn’t agree with your car. Maybe my description wasn’t very clear… I only got the better 26 mpg from mostly freeway and in the mountains on this recent trip. At home (90% of my driving), winter or summer, it’s closer to 16mpg combo city/hwy (13 strictly city… my best with conservative highway driving has yielded 24mpg). Again I’m pretty certain it can’t be much else because my previous stock jetted 32/36 eeked out 27 once on the highway… the only change has been I had a 4 speed back then.
So you may be right in that the secondary may be right on, if not maybe still a bit rich. How do I adjust the circuit to bring the primary and secondary closer together?
It always runs good and strong, I am just getting tired of the gas mileage and I’m ready to do something about it… it’s either go back to stock jetting and play from there OR stay with your well tested prescription and tweak just a bit. I would much rather work with what I’ve got.
thanks much
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I have a new (now is new-ish I suppose) Weber 32/36 with CD's prescription. Although it has been running very good I have suspected that it is just too rich for my car (live on the NW coast, so typically under 100ft elevation)... everything is new, tuned and timed and yet I get very poor gas mileage. I have 5 speed, crane ignition, 3.64 and I've gotten like 13 city with 22-24 strictly highway for the past few years since I've had this new carb (my old leaky one with stock jets, and 4 speed at that, got better MPG).
I just came from a quick trip over the mountains, where I pushed the car VERY hard through passes of 5500 feet and then drove for a half a tank at 1500 to 1800 feet on the other side, and then back over again... maybe 30/70 ratio of city/hwy driving. Ran super strong even at the top of the pass with no need to tweek the idle or mixture adjustment screws AND I got like 26 mpg!! So now I know my jetting is off.
I know there are many variables and what ifs... but I would think that i wouldn't have to significantly alter what CD has done here. In order to reduce my rejetting experimentation, could anyone recommend a good starting point... meaning what should I start with as for a combination of idle and main jets to change out?? I know they work together, so I hesitate to just reduce the jets by say 1 size... or is that what I'll have to do?
for a refresher, here are CD's jet sizes...
Float Level 40mm
PRIMARY
idle 60
main 140
air correction 145
SECONDARY
idle 55
main 170
air correction 175
AND -PLUG THE SECONDARY ENRICHMENT HOLE AT THE TOP OF THE CARB AS MY DIAGRAM SHOWS . DON'T ASK WHY- JUST DO IT AND SEE THE HUGE DIFFERANCE IN ACCURATE FUEL METERING THROUGH OUT ALL RPM AND THROTTLE OPENINGS.
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Hell, I could care less that my car is square or roundie, or big or small bumper... all I know is I love to work on, drive, look at and get looked at in mine.... I don't really even give a shit that it's a BMW... it could be an AMC for all I care. It is what it is, and it is a beauty to me.
This discussion may only help perpetuate the popular notion that BMW drivers are persnickity snobs and many indeed arse-holes because they are like that in everything in life. A notion which I cannot totally discount due to some experience... although conviced it's way over generalized (as human nature tends to do) due to the fine folks I've dealt with on this forum!
People just like what they like... only some people actually do think they are better than others because of what they have materially. I'm hoping those people are in a very small minority... they just tend to also be the loud and obnoxious ones. And it's fortunate people just like what they like or else we'd all be driving the same car with the same color... although if that was the case it would be an Inka square tail with shortened big bumpers!! tee hee.
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You could also just put a large aluminum pop rivet in the hole and use your old screw.
oh, I see... good idea... because they have holes and the sheet metal screws will just grab hold of that!?!? I assume as long as the rivet is sized properly it won't spin?
sorry John, this didn't work for me... the rivet kept spinning... tried it a few times and even tried to back it up with a washer thinking it would hold tighter. nope.
just for yalls info, I was worried about reaming out the holes in my parking light fixtures... but upon playing with it I found that the next size up screw (#8) didn't take much reaming at all... can't remember the drill bit size, but it barely had to cut much to make it through... so, i ended up using the next larger screw and that worked slick and quick. next time though I realize i may have to splurge on a rivetnut set up.
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You could also just put a large aluminum pop rivet in the hole and use your old screw.
oh, I see... good idea... because they have holes and the sheet metal screws will just grab hold of that!?!? I assume as long as the rivet is sized properly it won't spin?
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cool... just looked them up... I do have a rivet gun, does it work the same way? Can i use my rivet gun or is it a specialized tool?s
wait, does that also mean I'd have to change out the original sheet metal screw with a machine screw to fit the nutsert?
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all my body holes are stripped out for my parking lights. The next size up screw would require reaming out the holes in the lights and not sure if the larger head would seat nicely... I just tried filling the holes in the body with JB Weld and that failed (maybe I need to grind off the paint surrounding the holes?)
I don't have a welder or easy access to one. Anyone come up with an ingenious idea where you don't have to take the wheel off to get to the back of the parking lamp with a nut?
Rob
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Anyone have any feedback on the Nameless Performance radiator?
Hot topic... there's some reference to nameless from these discussions just a couple weeks ago... sounds like a nice product.
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On my ’02 (with upgraded alternator and relays) I have fairly new Hella’s with 65/55w H4 (the more efficient Xenon ones from rallylights.com).
I just bought the Bosch headlights from busdepot.com with the 65/55's they provide. Someone recently highlighted them on this forum. I installed them in my 66 mustang (also upgraded alternator, relays and new wiring harness) and was astounded at the difference between the two… the age difference of the bulbs alone can’t make such a dramatic difference… they also had the better illumination distance. Note these are slightly different than the standard Bosch sold elsewhere… see the website for details. All that I know is I like it better and I still don’t have folks flashing at me, so the cutoff is still good.
I’m going to get them for my ’02. Thanks for reminding me, I was going to do that last week!
This was my recent experience between these two. Do a search, you will find tons of opinions between hella, bosch, cibie.
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According to the max blowup and prices the lens by itself is more than the whole show???? Am I missing something?
there are two Item #2's. The -925 one isn't valid and doesn't show up in RealOEM.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=2214&mospid=47140&btnr=63_0487&hg=63&fg=20
Really that complete light kit looks like a pretty good deal whether you need all of it or not.
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I think the covers are a whopping $350 each. One for the left, one for the right.
just noticed a while back that Max had the whole shootin match for like 175, which means you might be able to get them for even less elsewhere!
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Another option... http://www.cocomats.com/
large selection of colors... very heavy and durable. Really like mine and will be getting them for my other car too.
Some folks don't like the 'busy' look of coco-mats, but you can get a solid color or one with subtle colored dots in them and they are classy looking.
Mine have been abused well for over a couple years now and they look, even smell, brand new (true, I THINK the smell might be some sort of nicely scented fabric guard that they apply... not a chemically smell though). Carpet pads would have been worn looking by now from my experience.
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sweet... is that red interior i see? or just the light playing with me?
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Amsoil Heavy Duty MP comes in a large spray can. I use it on all the under carriage bolts or anything I don't want to sieze. Dries and does not collect dust/dirt. I allso use it in my door mechanism (not the key tumbler). I also use it to coat cylinder bores and machined surfaces in storage. Easily removed with solvent. Dirt bikers and ATV people use it on chains in dirt.
Looks like a cool product. Do you know if this stuff is anything like Eastwood's HD anti-rust product?
http://www.eastwood.com/ew-heavy-duty-anti-rust-13-5-oz.html
by Amsoil's description it seems like it might not be as heavy or waxy like the anti-rust? I have some anti-rust but never considered using it for this application, though i suppose it would work. Anti rust runs a bit until it 'sets' so I'm not sure how it would adhere to something like the bottom side of a part underneath the car.
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AND there are powercoating finishes that are shiny chrome, etc.
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please let me know if you find metal rear badges... as of less than a year ago when i did research (a few suppliers including Blunt) and the only metal badges were for the hood and only plastic available for the trunk.
I need a metal one for my trunk... my girlfriend, as lovely as she is, can't ever seem to remember not to close the lid with her palm on my new plastic badge... it's all dented in and never has fit as flat as the original metal one.
I'm thinking of just buffing out and repainting my old and ugly one... but my detail painting skills suck and I'm not sure if it would turn out well enough for me.
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Tom is a great guy. I'm glad you got him on your side for this. Let me know when it's done and i'll be one of the first customers.
i have nearly everything needed for the EFI swap....
-josh
ditto!
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yep... trying to deal with the guy supplying my FI parts (!!!!) and it's been difficult... on and off... so we moved our discussion to email.
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I built my own throttle linkage and am making one for someone else. I probably could put together a run of them if there is enough interest.
I'm gathering what i need that takes as little fabrication as possible... so I would be interested!
from what I've been reading the feel of the throttle is pretty critical... you don't want it twitchy or too heavy... nice and progressive at light throttle, etc. I've seen all kinds of methods that each seem to like... I don't want to recreate something that works.
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just did this... but printed out the info and didn't keep the links. There is so much info it is kind of hard to find... diligence.
some threads are better than others, but each one you come across will have new references to yet more information and difference opinions... each one will deal with a particular aspect a little deeper.
I just took a couple hours or so and searched on EFI or INJECTION , CONVERSION, MEGASQUIRT, 318i and came away with everything i needed.
here's some to start you out:
http://www.zeebuck.com/bimmers/tech/Megasquirt/preparation.html
http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/t,353786/
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what are you using for a relay panel -should be plenty of usable stuff on the 318
good idea... I'm not aware of needing something like that for FI. So the 318i has a nice relay panel that could be used?
can you describe it or location? or show it in RealOEM diagram?
what needs relays?
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don't you have to support those coils? how have you done that? any pictures?
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Also... anyone else?... what about other nice parts (other than FI) that I may want from the 318i car?
I found the battery cable discussion I was looking for… I’d primarily want the positive cable, distribution block and cover… and the negative cables would be convenient.
but anything else?
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cool, i understood some of that... thanks for the lesson.
so which miata pack do you recommend? I see various ones from 150 to over $300.
a CD jetting conundrum
in BMW 2002 and other '02
Posted
good idea.... talked to patrick before about my future EFI plans.
May end up doing that... for now i just want to try to work with what i've got. Seems like this setup is so unique no one quite knows where to modify it. Thought those on the forum who have this set-up may have a known tweak that moves me in the right direction.