robsanab

So far so good with the Braille B3121… for 6 months now. Also with a host of new current draws, such as stereo and electric fan that will sometimes stay on a few minutes after shutoff… it will float back and hold at 12.8 volts (fyi… AL41x @ 65A)

Powder coating works great… I’m very happy I did mine. I get lots of compliments. They don’t really stand out as different unless there are other 02’s around to compare.

To consider: mine were in much worse shape than yours. Also, I have bits of other trim painted the same since I had the car stripped of all trim for paint and new seals in 2008. My bright trim was also bad and dinged… hard to find and very expensive at the time as well… so I had it and roof rail coated too. That MAY be why it doesn’t seem to stand out as much (And now even my engine matches… Just finished my EFI project and coated the intake and valve cover!). All that plus I just hate polishing ‘chrome’ or high gloss finishes on anything… prefer lower gloss for ease of maintenance as well as prefer the look.

This picture is a decent representation… shows direct and shadowed lighting, and the contrast between the Rota wheel (royal silver) and the stock pieces not painted… close enough not to clash.

I can’t remember the color name/number, gloss level (70-80%?) nor the brand (Cardinal ?) but it’s very aluminum or light grey color. Go see it in real life or get a swatch. I’m sure you can find something closer to original look… a vast array of colors and finishes.

thanks all... 

the wheels are about 7-8 years old, so not from corrosion when they were painted. 

I found some very similar looking spider veins on another forum (thanks Tsingtao…. ). I guess corrosion got underneath the clear coat, could have been just water. These other experiences also mentioned that they ‘stored’ them as well. This was the first time I had a shop do it… although i have always put them in bags I remember this time, since it was nasty weather, they were put in wet and didn’t have a chance to dry out... although I made a point of not sealing them up and stacking them for a good few weeks later… still I think moisture got under some imperceptible scratches. One spot included some road rash on the rim, so that seems pretty clear cut… the others areas seem pretty clean and smooth however. Lord knows I don’t wash these things with kid gloves as you’re apparantely supposed to. But I've never had an issue with any other wheel on other cars… I treat them all the same. That’s why I prefer all powdercoating, shiny stuff is too much trouble (from someone who dislikes washing that is). Don’t really mind patina… now I got it on my wheels!

Have any ideas what could have caused this? odd spider pattern... the one large patch is the only one where the clear coat has a rough worn spot... the other spots feel smooth. 

Backstory... they were in perfect condition when I had a tire shop remove them to put on my winter set. They have been in their bags in the garage... I took them out to have them swap out and found this on two of the four. One interesting note (?) I think they were both on the fronts. I don't know whether to make a fuss and blame the shop or if it could have been due something I did wrong in storage... maybe the bags they provided had some solvent on them or ?

thanks for you ideas

Been using Valeo 600's (15") for quite a few years... seem to last a long time, I use them often (although car is garaged so not constantly in the elements).

nice matte black finish, robust... made in Germany I believe.

http://www.valeoserviceusa.com/products/wiper-systems/600-series

I actually MAY be home for this one, for a change!

how long does this cruise usually take?

Several years ago now, I replaced my door cards and vinyl with some of the wooden ones from Aardvark… I put some sort of wood penetrating stain on the back and then also used some very dense closed cell foam (like the secondskin audio’s 1/8” Overkill) in lieu of plastic sheeting.

So far so good… with added benefit of sound deadening… even though I sound deadened the entire car quite a bit (and it sounds like a tomb) I believe the door treatment contributes a lot to the quietness.

The stuff compresses a bit and with just the right trimming won't adversely affect getting the door clips in.

Ireland Eng has got them... they show just sets so will need to call to get individually...

http://www.iemotorsport.com/

I used some round closed cell foam (don't remember diameter) that compressed perfectly in that recess and seals well between body and trim... looks good too... can get it black or grey... grey blends in well, not at all noticeable. Has worked well keeping mud out and cleans easily with water spray.

The Template is right there in front of you if you have a late model dash.   The last thing I made out of wood was a cutting board in Junior High.

Oh I see... last time I had the dash pod out to fix my speedo I didn't notice it comes apart to that degree... yes, I can see how that makes a template easier... THANK you!

pkchopp, on 10 Oct 2014 - 2:52 PM, said: Brazilian Rose wood inlay with VDO Jet cockpit gauges. Custom dash with highlight stitching to match exterior car colour.

Did you happen to make more than one of those rosewood dash inserts? I wanted to try to get something like that done. it looks awesome!

Me too... better yet, do you have a template? I've been wanting to get some of that adhesive backed veneer and do that myself... I'm not sure how best to actually make one and then cleanly cut it out... suggestions?

Thanks very much for the thorough explanation.

With all that in mind I am leaning towards getting the Hamlin 55505 (at 125*C and mentioned in the msextra link)... the Cherry seems to require an external pull up resistor (as does the Honeywell GT1) and it's like $45. Maybe that pull up resistor isn't a big deal but it just adds another engineering element that I know little about.

I will have to see if I can modify the mounting to fit that larger barrel, not to mention that flange being in the way... Tom (O2 again) customized my mount to fit the Hamlin 55075 (M12 barrel diameter) since all my research up to that point recommended this sensor. All I know is that with this information I don't want to chance it... I want to get it right the first time.

thanks for the lesson... I could see how that would have been a frustrating problem.

For reference, what VR sensor are you using? In case I go that route.

Rob

jmp... thanks for your write up... I look forward to updates, although I hope to tackle my EFI project within the next couple months. Question though, you say:

The Hamlin hall sensor I was running was super temperature sensitive (only rated up to 85C!!).

I assume this is the Hamlin 55075? ... are you sure it was the sensor that went belly up? Or, as you found out with the VR sensor, maybe it wasn't set up correctly? I ask because this is what I purchased and plan to install based on folks here using it as well as research on other forums. The Hamlin data sheet does indeed say 85C, but their technical paper says 100C (which would be 212F). I wouldn't think underhood temps would get up even to 185F (85C) since it is mounted low and downstream of the fan (as well as mounted to an aluminum heat sink, since I'm using the '02 Again sensor bracket). I don't know, I am just questioning using the Hamlin now after your report, yet I hate to just trash it if your issue could have been something else. Any thoughts?

Rob   

color does not matter to me... the original grey looks nice... I am a fan of powdercoating look and durability.

was just trying to find on BluntTech... no go so I searched to find this post... please let us know when you have more... I'm interested in getting.

thanks

Have had my Crane XR-700 w/ their FireBall coil (PS20 I think) for at least 10 years now... not tons of miles, but a daily driver in all conditions... never a problem.

great work... thank you!!

yes, all of the above is who I found too... I've been wanting to do the same.

If you would tell us how it went with handy tips and pictures maybe?!?!

I think there was a post ways back where someone showed how they did it without that heat seam along the edge. I have done a bit of vinyl work, but I'm not the best at it... would like some pointers if you get around to it... that would encourage me to get after mine!

a couple things... first check out sounddeadenershowdown.com (SDS) and his philosophy... things have changed a bit since I wallpapered my car with the asphalt mat/vibration dampener 5 years ago. It worked well and my car is so pleasantly quiet on a long trip. But he is big into using just enough mat to dampen the vibration in the panels that resonate and then layout down some closed cell foam AND THEN using a mass loaded vinyl which does the primary job of blocking sound.

specifically to your question on using it on your roof... I did, also put some thick closed cell foam with quality high temp glue... BUT I don't live in high heat. Not all products are the same... I used second skin damplifier which at the time won all the tests for holding up best under high heat... SDS claims his will stick and not turn to too much goo at 500 degrees or something like that. The guy at SDS is great to work with and will give you his recommendation... for the roof I think he recommends just using some 3M insulate product but I could be wrong, check his site for details. You mention fatmat... if you already have that particular product ask him what he thinks... he's familiar with many products since he's tested a lot of them... seems like a straight shooter and won't over sell you.

I don't know how my megasquirt guide isn't a sticky yet. What's a guy gotta do!?

Accel 140028

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,0/page,viewtopic/t,373796/sid,dca5c0a37bb909f4744fa7a48eefb1db/

This is an excellent coil and you can use the stock wires.

still excellent and I think your guide is still referenced a lot (and appreciated!)... only what I think he is getting at is what I found out several months ago, Accel isn't making this model with these particular posts any longer... I shopped hi and lo (a lot of stores were advertizing them but didn't actually have any) until I found Miller's Mule... he somehow had managed to find and horde a bunch of them.

Note he also has another one that is black but looks exactly like the Accel... didn't ask him the difference, just got the Accel.

Some manufacturers have electronics built in to prevent the under and over charging idiosyncrasies of these… does this battery have that? I don’t see it mentioned on the website. Maybe that’s why this is a comparatively cheap Li for it's fairly high capacity.

AGM’s seem to have this similar intolerance to under/over charging only without such violent results. Most of the problems I’ve seen in the forums about these look like misapplications to me… too small capacity for the car.

Yes please, post updates periodically. I’ll be looking at this for my EFI conversion to avoid running battery to trunk/seat. Right now I have my eyes set on the Braille B2618 AGM battery (8.1”x3.5”x6.3”, 18lbs, 475CCA, 27AH, RC=35min, $210) which looks like it may allow me to fit the EFI air filter above the battery, as you can see it too is only 3.5” wide. Maybe this Mirai would give me another option minus several more pounds to boot.

OT - I have also been researching a battery replacement for my mustang that is getting some mods this month. Since I’m in the market for a battery NOW I have decided on the Braille B3121 (6.6”x5.2”x6.8”, 21lbs, 550CCA, 31AH, RC=75min, $180).

Did you use any windshield sealer?

Well for me, I used OEM seals and Pinkerton glass (on a freshly painted car) installed by a professional... I had a bad leak.... wet left foot. I had another shop neatly install sealer between both glass/seal and seal/body to fix it. Seals now even with hard driving rain on the freeway.

ooo yes the sport S's. Those look better installed than on the website for some reason. hmmmm, I may have to reconsider these over the monte carlos. I like the lower back too.

But does the seatback lever only flip the seat back forward? Or does it offer infinite recline adjustment AND flip forward? This assumption and the extra price was why I was thinking I'd go with the monte carlo.... but now I'm liking these.

Woody in portland has them in his 02 as well... see his pict here...

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,0/page,viewtopic/t,340603/highlight,/sid,d08ee94e4848ebfd67624fbfefdc661f/

Just talked to Stefan about finally ordering them for my 66 mustang... he is expecting his shipment of monte carlo frames to come in the first week or so of March. He is great to work with... really goes out of his way to make sure you're happy. He has the perfect match for the rosette pattern used in the stock stang seats. Also, since my application is a convertible I don't want the seat back too high... once he gets them in we are going to compare measurements to determine if he will shorten the back any... AND he is going to install seat heaters with switches in the seat!! Point being he's great to work with.

I come down to Seattle some... if you're not in the need for them soon maybe we could hook up sometime and you can sit in them... I suspect my car won't be on the road until May (he said he's several weeks out plus I have other upgrades going on).

I am trying to decide between these two… I’m not sure if I am going to go with a gauge or just the controller… both products are now offered with either option.

There is a lot of opinion about both of these (and others) on many different forums… much of it goes over my head. It seems as if the Innovate had some issues several years back but they seemed to have been fixed… these past few years the Innovate products have been highly regarded.

1) Is it nice to have a gauge or not really needed? (I don’t have a turbo or anything and I won’t be racing)

2) What has been the most reliable for you folks?

I will have be working with an experienced Megasquirt tuner who is willing to work with either one. They say the AEM evidently is requires no calibration, where as the Innovate does. I don’t know if one method is better than the other. As long as it’s reliable and accurate either is fine with me I think. Opinons?

I had a similar problem.... The headrest was the culprit, gave it a quick whack (downward), quiet as a mouse now....

I'll try that... I can see how maybe the rattle I talked about might come from the headrest. But there's got to be more to it... I mean it's creaks when I shift my weight back into the seat or even down into the seat. It's coming from the lower and hinged area of the seat... I just don't know what parts tend to create the noise, if they're just worn or loose. I'll try lubing up what i can see and get to.... maybe I can isolate it.