AustrianVespaGuy

Hey, those are some great pics, thanks for checking that for me! I still think the Porsche bungs have a good chance of fitting correctly, but it looks like either way it could be made to work. I'm just glad the spacing/angles for the fuel rail work! One other question now though. It was mentioned that the 1.8i head has a bit lower compression than the other combustion chamber geometries, so would it be possible to just have the head shaved a little bit to get back to the ~8.5 'stock' compression? Or would so much have to be removed that valve/piston and/or cam chain length issues would come up? Thanks again for all of the great help guys, the 2002 forums are the best! -Carl

Wait, are you sure that the injector ports need to be 'opened?' I thought I would just need to install new bungs for the EFI injectors, such as these: http://www.bitzracing.com/products/injector_bungs/injectorbungsdetails.html It looks to me as if the CIS bungs have already been removed from this head, and that I would simply have to press these EFI bungs into the ports and be good to go; does anyone agree/disagree with this? Thanks! -Carl

Here it is, I'm going to try this here this evening, but I can't seem to wrap my head around why this will help, but that's ok, I'll just give it a go. BTW, I'm assuming that's still a Zener in there after the 4004s, right? It just looks like another 4004 in backwards, but I'm assuming that's just a simplified symbol and is still supposed to be the Zener. -Carl

I've played with this some and settled at ~400K ohms being the best. Now it works up to ~5500, but the needle twitches every now and then at idle. At 220K it worked all the way up, but would bounce all over the place down at idle, so this is my best compromise. Haven't tried leaking at a 4004 yet though, that will be my next experiment. -Carl

Well, topics are drifting a little bit here, but I think I got what I need. To summarize a little bit: Main point is yes, the 1.8i head fits properly on the 2002 block, coolant passages line up, etc, but the different shape of the combustion chamber leads to slightly lower compression than the E12, E21, and 121 heads, correct? The distributor is not an issue because I am already running EDIS with Megasquirt, so I don't have a dizzy, yay! Also, the benefit of having the injector ports in the head is that I wouldn't need a new throttle body, I'd just use my DCOE carb body (on the Lynx manifold, my current settup) as the throttle body, as opposed to getting a TWM throttle body for it and trying to run with just 2 injectors. I was hoping that the fuel rail from the 318i would work, but if not then that is a snag to have to custom make a proper fuel rail. And yes, it's a MM head, which is why I'm interested in it Higher compression tii 'panio-top' pistons are also on my list for a not-to-distant upgrade. I too always thought that tii had a different cam, but John_a kinda sounds like he knows what he is talking about. That's impressive though, if the KF and 9.5 pistons were all that were needed for a 30% boost in power! Anyway, thanks for the input everyone! -Carl

Hi, does anyone know if a 1.8i head (like in the attached pic) will fit on an 02 block? I'm considering this for my Megasquirt conversion, since it has the injector bungs in the intake ports. This way, I wouldn't have to buy a throttle body and I'd get a nice new head as a bonus. Any thoughts? -Carl

Ok, I'm looking for a decent rebuilt cylinder head. I would prefer an E12 with a 284 or 292 cam. I'll get a new one from Korman, TEP, or Metric Mechanics if I have to but I'd rather spend less on a used one if I can find one. I'd be interested in anything in good shape with <100K on it that isn't an all out racing head. Please let me know if you have anything to offer. Thanks! ceichel02 AT gmail DOT com -Carl

I was starting to get frustrated trying to get my tach working with the new EDIS system, (no success from IDM pin 2, CTO pin 11, or diode circuit) and I finally came across this on an Opel forum, an it works pretty well! I had to up the resistor from the 100K to 1M, and it actually only works up to ~4500RPM, but I'm still better off than I was before. Not sure what the pic of the modification on the back of the tach is all about, but I figured I'd post it together, since I found them together. Hope this helps someone! -Carl

It's that little clip that clips the two ends of the windshield gasket locking strip together. Does anyone have an extra they can send me? With shipping it's like 16 bucks from Bavauto which is just too much. Thanks if you can help! Email is ceichel02 at gmail dot com. -Carl

I'm running a brand new DCOE 45 (factory jetting 36mm venturies 145 mains, etc) on my new Lynx manifold but it seems to be too big for my stock camshaft. Throttle resolution is too touchy. So, I'd like to see if anyone out there has a 40er that they would be interested in trading up for a 45er. Shoot me an email if you're interested. Thanks! ceichel02 at gmail dot com -Carl

Hey Johnup, I want to ask you some questions about your MAP setup on your TWM ITBs. Can you email me at some point? Thanks! -Carl ceichel02 at gmail dot com

Yep, that did the trick, and I do plan to get a new nut and definitely use anti-seize when I put it all back together. Thanks for the help guys! -Carl

Well, I threw in the towel, put the radiator back in, and took the car to a local shop at lunch that has a 3/4 impact driver. I guess I'll know tomorrow if they'll be able to get it free. -Carl

Yeah, I actually tried the starter trick too by putting the end of the breaker bar through the towing eye AND using a puller to hold the socket nice and tightly against the nut. Hit the starter three times and nothing happened. I figured I was able to get more torque on it with a piece of pipe on the end of the breaker bar than the old starter motor could muster, and I was able to get enough torque make the clutch slip, so I'm hesitant about trying the starter trick again; don't want to burn out my starter either. You think I'd be able to cut the nut off with a dremel or something without doing too much damage to the threads? -Carl

Any advice on getting the crank pulley nut broken free? I've already let it soak in PB blaster for 36 hours, heated it with a torch, had a friend step on the brake, and put enough torque on it to make the clutch slip, but no looser. Any ideas? -Carl

I've decided that the Bistein Sport shocks that I got are a tad too stiff for my daily driver, and so I'm considering swapping them out for some slightly softer HDs. Is there anyone out there with some used HDs that might be interested in a trade? Email at ceichel at g dot clemson dot edu. Thanks! -Carl

I'm convinced that the way to really get A/C in a 2002 is this kit: http://www.southernrods.com/categories/heating-and-cooling/heating-and-cooling-systems/products/product-2068.html I live in SC and am planning on installing this kit this spring so I'm ready for the summer heat. I've measured it out and the condensor unit should fit nicely up under the dash between the steering column and the glovebox. (Need to remove/modify the center console though). But for <$700 you get a brand new and modern heat/cool condenser unit, evaporator, drier, hoses, and a high efficiency Sanden compressor! Seems like a super deal to me, and that's what I'm going with, but that's just my 2 cents. -Carl

Hi all, I got one of the new Lynx manifolds when they became available again a little while ago, and now I'm ready to order a new 45 DCOE to go on it! My question is, what jetting should I order with it to start? Any suggestions here would be appreciated, and I've listed the other pertinent information below: ~600 feet above sea level Stock motor internals (pistons, cam, etc) in decent shape (~100,000 miles). SS 4-2-1 headers and Ansa sport exhaust. Pertronix electronic ignition. Single sidedraft lynx, planning on using a DCOE 45. I would like suggestions for: Choke/venturi size Main jets Emulsion tubes Air correctors Idle jets Float level Thanks again for any help! -Carl

Well I'd agree that it's probably not the most resilient fan out there, but my car does live in the garage so I think that will help out it's longevity tremendously. And if it does conk out in a year or so, for 30 bucks and 20 minutes, and a new tube of superglue, I'll probably just pop in another one. Plenty of other yearly maintenance that is both more labor and cost intensive, hell anymore, I spend more than $30 when I change my oil! -Carl

So I've owned 3 2002s, only one of which had a working heater/defrogger fan, and even the one that worked banged against something and made lots of racket and didn't work that well. New fans cost ~$250 and getting to them isn't easy either, but I finally found a really slick work around to get a working heater fan and would like to share to anyone else who's interested: I found out that you can actually get in with a pair of wire cutters (small hands does help!) and snip off the original fan shroud/cage from the heater box from the ENGINE side WITHOUT removing the heater box! I'll bet one of those exacto knives with the serrated saw blade would be even easier, but I didn't have one. Once the cage is snipped free, you can undo the clips and drop the fan into the box and have enough room to pull the cage/shroud out the side. It also takes folding the fan blades around some (just snip the electrical leads as close to the fan as you can), but eventually you'll be able to pull the fan out through the side as well, leaving just a nice round hole in the front of your heater box. Now for the easy part, buy one of these for $30: http://www.heatsinkfactory.com/delta-tfb1212ghe-120x38mm-extreme-high-speed.html (I recommend getting the grill too to help keep any extra leaves and such out.) This new fan you can wire straight to the leads used for the old fan, and it fits quite nicely in the hole left in the heater box. I just tacked down the four corners to the box with some superglue, which seems to work great but you might be able engineer something a little cleaner if you put your mind to it. Then that's it, you're done! You now have a brand new fan, even with three speeds since it's controlled just like the old one, that pumps out 220 CFM! It is loud, but again so was the old one that banged around and I'd much rather have a loud working fan than none at all. Took me about an hour and a half, but now that you have some guidance I'll bet you could do it in under an hour. I'll try and post a picture at some point later, but feel free to post any questions in the mean time; I hope someone can else can benefit from this too, I'm really pleased with how mine turned out. -Carl

Whee! Thanks for all of the information guys! This may indeed turn out to be too difficult to find in the US, but I wanted to at least explore the market. I lived in Austria for a few years and helped my host brother work on his and we would cruise it around on weekends and stuff; I've wanted my own back here in the states ever since. Thanks again for all of the help! -Carl

I want to supplement my 2002 with an old Puch Haflinger. Anyone around here know where any can be found in the US? Thanks! -Carl