skylund

PM'd

Name: AW11 Toyota MR2
Category: Non BMWs
Date Added: 2022-10-22
Submitter: skylund

AW11 Toyota MR2

Thanks @MT43! I'll probably post updates somewhere once life chills out for a minute and I have time. I found a track car that was mechanically excellent, but barely eeked into my budget due to the interior being fully stripped out, a pretty 90s-looking aftermarket front apron installed, a race cage welded in, and the body having been (beautifully) painted a very polarizing non-period-correct color of Phoenix Yellow. I'm warming up to the "birdshit yellow" as its affectionately called, but the rest will be a long work-in-progress. At the same time, it feels incredible to even have a title in-hand after decades of dreaming. 

And YES to the Nissan Silvia. What I love about those cars (and the similarly outrageously-priced AE86) is that they can look so unassuming if you don't know what they are. Any Ferrari will get looks, but a cult car will get you conversations and like-minded friends. 

Good luck on your hunt! Believe me, I know its not easy. Having a childhood connection with the car was part of my story, and what kept me looking even after the prices got insane.

Edit: found one! It needs plenty to make it my own, but it's well sorted with lots of goodies. 

10 minutes ago, irdave said:

I'm guessing you looked over on s14.net

Thanks! But yeah, s14.net, r3vlimited, Bimmerforums, Pelican Parts, ebay, craigslist, Autotrader, Cars and Bids, Facebook marketplace, builtforbackroads.com, and Bring a trailer are all in the regular rotation. 

One or two have popped up within budget, but they went quick to local buyers (mostly east coast). 

Edit: Found one! Thanks everyone!

Can anyone help me find an e30 m3 driver/shell that my daily classifieds searches won't? Any project (even incomplete) without structural rust would be considered if price is doable. $50k is probably my max for something complete.

Long story short, I've saved most of my adult life to buy my childhood dream car, but as it became everyone else's dream car (or investment property), the prices have skyrocketed (like, $30k for a rusted partial shell). You can get a better performing car for $50k, but this is sort of a life-milestone I'd like to achieve.

I can promise a long-term home, and should the unthinkable force it, I'd sell it only for the cash I had into it. 

Thanks everyone! Feel free to email my username at gmail if easier.

Quote

I believe US cars changed over from the small diameter pictograph knobs to the larger, plain knobs with the other trim changes on model 71 cars (257/8/9xxxx VINs)

Posting to an ancient thread to add my data for future searchers. My Sep. 1971 mfg. (sold as 1972) VIN 2577438 had pictures on the knobs with no dash decals (other than shift pattern).

My wipers are controlled by a turn stalk switch, so lower right pull-switch on the dash is blank.

Edit: My bad, just saw the SOLD tag. Still getting used to the new setup. Thanks!

These still available? I'm in HB and can pick up asap. Thanks!

PN 33-21-1-207-094 (#3 on diagram attached). 

I need 6 of these. Can anyone send me 6 used ones to 91214 for a reasonable price? Thanks-

EDIT: FOUND. Thanks!

Discovered a small divot in an outer CV joint on my '71 2002. Really just need the one CV joint, but if its easier to send a complete half shaft, that works too. 

Happy to pick up in greater Los Angeles area or pay for shipping to 91214. 

3 hours ago, Squid's 02 said:

Hope that helps. 

It does, thank you! I had overlooked that the Classic Daily solution suggests MK3 calipers and carriers. That definitely seems like the simpler route rather than mixing and matching junkyard parts. I already have Jake's brackets. Not sure if that e-brake bracket is specific to the MK3 calipers or just an alternative to the sleeve/stacked washer solution others have gone with. 

Thanks again

4 hours ago, Son of Marty said:

And they both use db1865 pads.

Awesome, thanks for the suggestion and check. I’ll try to pull them this week and update the FAQ if they work. 

Tried searching. Consensus seems to be that you need VW MK2 rear caliper carriers for the VW rear disc brake conversion detailed in the FAQ, but I believe that only the Golf GTI and Jetta GLI had rear discs in the US, and I'm having a hard time sourcing the caliper carriers used.

However, rear caliper carrier 443615425B is listed on the VW parts site as fitting a MK2 VW GTI, but is also listed on the Audi parts site as fitting a late 90s Audi A4. 

I've never seen an MK2 GTi/GLI in my local junkyard, but there are about 5 late 90s Audi A4s there right now . 

Can anyone confirm that the rear caliper carrier for the Audi A4 does/doesn't fit with an MKIV VW caliper before I go pull these? If not, I'll give it a shot and update. 

18 hours ago, VWJake said:

I would measure to the center of the bolt hole in the protruding face of the sleeve

Yeah, I agree. I don't know how you could measure anywhere else with precision in the Z-axis. The depiction in the diagram and my own measurements threw me off, but I appreciate the sanity check.  

Looking at the frame measurements here and rear subframe mount diagrams discussed here, here, and here, I'm not 100% on the vertical position for the rear subframe mount measurement, shown as point "B" in the annotated image attached. I can't, with any certainty, visually match the point circled on the left diagram with the detailed diagram on the right.  Specifically, I can't figure out exactly where the line 64mm below the diff mounting tab holes (shown in dotted red line on left) would fall in the vertical direction. 

On my car, one side is rusted out/removed completely, and the other side is rusted and has been hammered on enough to render it unreliable. That said, on my car, 64mm below the diff mounting holes lands about 2mm below the cylinder housing the bolt (shown in dotted red line on right). 

Can someone confirm? Am I missing something obvious?

UPDATE:  I think it's running on all four cylinders now, but I don't have the ear for it since my exhaust is only a downpipe at the moment.  I took a (poor) video as I pulled out the spark plug wires one by one. What do you guys think? Even if firing on all cylinders, still sounds pretty rough to me. 

https://youtu.be/LYszJHbdN9g

In any event, the plugs aren't fouling or wet with fuel anymore. As much as I'm embarrassed to admit it, I think @TobyB and others were right, and somehow my wires were crossed despite checking and re-checking them. I can't verify this conclusively since I also swapped fresh spark plugs and checked all my connectors, but this seems to be the most likely explanation.

 Thank you for the helpful replies!  My incorrect terminology threw people off. I'm using the stock e30 M42 ignition coils system.  I'll do some more digging tonight and report back. To answer questions: 

4 hours ago, AustrianVespaGuy said:

you should check which cylinders are paired and maybe listen to them to see if you can at least hear them clicking.  

4 hours ago, Simeon said:

If not you can always listen to them with a mechanics stethoscope

Seems like all of them are spraying something, but I'm starting to suspect two are gunked up and not spraying properly. Could this cause a cylinder to miss altogether? Once I do more electrical diagnosis, maybe I'll swap two of the injectors and see if the problem follows. 

10 hours ago, tashakes said:

I had misfire issues because of a bad ground.

Weird, indeed, but a cheap fix to try. I have one strap from block to frame rail, and the starter ground (from the M42 harness) to fender.  This also makes me question my trunk battery ground, which I have connected to a trunk mounting bolt, but I figured since it cranks, it was good enough. 

2 hours ago, tech71 said:

Can you get a code reader and ask the engines ECU what's going on? Stop guessing.

Updated my post to mention that I performed e30 stomp test and got no errors (1444).  My understanding is that Motronic 1.3 doesn't provide much granularity beyond this.

2 hours ago, tech71 said:

doubt the car it came out of was using a rag for a gas cap. Seem to recall my E34 refusing to run right if I forgot the cap. Something?

Ha, no the rag for a gas cap is a custom mod. I don't think it's the issue, but I need to replace the fuel neck anyway. I'll order these parts now and rule it out. 

2 hours ago, Einspritz said:

My question is if those are the proper plugs for that engine (coil on plug ?) and are they gapped correctly?

As mentioned above, my terminology was unclear. I'm using the stock M42 ignition coils and NGK spark plugs recommended by other M42 guys. These are supposed to be pre-gapped to OEM specs, but this is an easy thing to confirm tonight. 

2 hours ago, Einspritz said:

if it has an ICV, and that has seized from non use, it may short out and fry the transistors in the ECU causing havoc

I haven't heard of this as a common M42 issue, but it does have an ICV. Will check tonight. 

@Simeon Compression for 1, 2, 3, 4 cylinders was 188, 190, 192, 194.  I think next step is to rent a fuel pressure gauge. 

Help! Finally got the M42 wired up, but doesn't seem to be firing on cylinders 3 and 4. 

Symptoms:

1. Cranks and fires quickly but sounds like a Harley
2. After running for a minute, (new) plugs on cylinders 1, 2 have tons of carbon fouling and cylinders 3, 4 are wet with fuel mixed with some black gunk. (see image below where I've already wiped some of the gunk off)

What I've verified:

1. Spark getting from coil to all four plugs each ignition coil to its respective plug using in-line spark tester.
   • Interchanged the coils/wires with no change.
   • Quadruple-checked that the ECU->coil->wire->plugs are going to the correct cylinders ECU->coil->wire->plug path is correct for each cylinder .
2. New fuel pump is pushing fuel through the lines when cranking/running and otherwise off
3. Compression seems ok: 1 – 188 , 2 - 190, 3 – 192, 4 – 194
4. Timing chain/cams/gears/crankshaft hub all line up as they should at TDC
5. Tested specs of crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensor and swapped with working replacements 
6. Performed "stomp test" and got a "no fault" code of 1444

What I haven’t verified:

1. Haven’t checked fuel injectors or tested fuel pressure regulator.
   • Seems like fuel is getting on the plugs. Maybe it’s too much? Could this cause flooding on only 2 cylinders?
2. Haven’t swapped ECU, but this was working when the motor was pulled from the donor car.

Other (probably irrelevant) details for completeness:

1. My car: 1971 2002; donor: 1991 318is
2. Engine ran great before pulled, but sat for a year before starting
3. Cooling system isn’t hooked up yet
4. Brake booster isn’t hooked up, but I’ve blocked off the vac hose
5. I only have a downpipe hooked up for exhaust (with new O2 sensor)
6. Gas tank filler neck cracked, so a rag is currently serving as a gas cap

Given that the engine sat for a year, my guess would be the injectors or the FPR, but the fact that gas is apparently getting into the cylinders is throwing me off.  Any ideas?

PM'd

@Harry Malkas Thanks for the quick response, but Ray looks like he has what I'm looking for. 

@ray_ Thanks! I'll drop you a PM

Experimenting with hacking new speedometer guts into an old housing for the M42 swap.  Would prefer later (non-silver dollar) faces, but open to whatever.  Doesn't need to be working- even better if it's not working and cheap. Thanks!

PM'd

Anyone?

Hey @Slavs is this you? Snapped this a couple months back about to merge onto the 110 south.