Couple quick newbie questions.....

[ardesign]

Just picked up my first 02....'69 that needs some TLC.

1. Driver side tire rubs on the strut during hard cornering. Wheel bearing doesn't seem to have much play - what else would cause the tire to deflect that much? Unloaded/on jack stands, I can probably fit a pack of cigs between the strut and tire.

2. Front frame rails have some rust. What is the preferred repair method?

3. 32/36 carb does NOT like to idle when cold, and has some hesitation. I am at 5k feet elevation, car was jetted for sea level. Plugs look quite good though - any suggestions?

4. Car has a random miss at idle. Sometimes it will idle pretty rough when warm, other times it idles fine - any suggestions there?

5. Front strut top mounts are SHOT, as are struts. Should I go with camber plates, or just go with new OEM mounts? And, any suggestions for struts that don't cost an arm and a leg?

6. Speedo works fine, but odo does not - do I need a new speedo?

7. Shifter has a LOT of play - 2nd gear grinds a LOT engaging. Double clutching and or shifting VERY slowly helps - best way to do a short shifter/rebuild to get rid of slop? I have a Getrag 240 ready to swap in, so something I can re-use/modify easily to work with that would be nice if available!

8. Rear-ends - I desperately need an LSD! Going to build a turbo motor this winter - are there any rear ends that can handle some decent horsepower? Looking to make around 500bhp, street driven.

Thanks guys!

[c.d.iesel]

1. Driver side tire rubs on the strut during hard cornering.

Wheel bearing doesn't seem to have much play

- what else would cause the tire to deflect that

much? Unloaded/on jack stands, I can probably

fit a pack of cigs between the strut and tire.

= tires too big, wrong rim offset, weak springs and or shocks

2. Front frame rails have some rust.

What is the preferred repair method? = cut out all bad metal.

either new rails or very good contition used sections

many excellent restoration shop folks present here

(Matt and Dan McGinn - CT.) should inspect your

car for an accurate evaluation/estimate

3. 32/36 carb does NOT like to idle when cold, and

has some hesitation. I am at 5k feet elevation,

car was jetted for sea level. Plugs look quite

good though - any suggestions? = may not need

any jetting change if it was too lean to begin with.

Your choke and idle jets need attention

4. Car has a random miss at idle. Sometimes it

will idle pretty rough when warm, other times

it idles fine - any suggestions there? = see # 3

5. Front strut top mounts are SHOT, as are struts.

Should I go with camber plates, or just go with

new OEM mounts? And, any suggestions for

struts that don't cost an arm and a leg?

= Bilstein HD shocks all round

your stock springs,

and K-MAC upper strut mounts are the best

The Original ruber BMW mounts leave the steering

less precise than the K-MAC mounts

6. Speedo works fine, but odo does not -

do I need a new speedo? = new speedos are

available from BMW-

or repair by 1-3 good speedo specialists

7. Shifter has a LOT of play - 2nd gear grinds a LOT

engaging. Double clutching and or shifting VERY

slowly helps - best way to do a short shifter/rebuild

to get rid of slop? I have a Getrag 240 ready to swap

in, so something I can re-use/modify easily to

work with that would be nice if available! = FIRST flush/bleed

the Brake & Clutch fluids till "CLEAR" fluid flows from all bleeders

The need for shifter platform rebuild under the tunnel is very common.

Not knowing what oil, how old, condition of trans -

change to ATF now and after hydraulic fluid flush,

re-evaluate the trans shifting

8. Rear-ends - I desperately need an LSD! Going

to build a turbo motor this winter - are there

any rear ends that can handle some

decent horsepower? Looking to make

around 500bhp, street driven. = I'll leave this

one to the rest of the class.

Welcome to the party

c.d.

[jr02518]

I have, for sale, a zero mile Quaif running a 3.64 that has new bearings and seals. $2000 plus shipping and Pay-pal. You will need to use your rear cover and call Dave Varco at Aardvark Racing for the drilled stub axles, spacers and alen bolts.

Putting in a used clutch type LSD behind your turbo motor will not last very long. At all.

David Barrish

[ardesign]

1. Driver side tire rubs on the strut during hard cornering.

Wheel bearing doesn't seem to have much play

- what else would cause the tire to deflect that

much? Unloaded/on jack stands, I can probably

fit a pack of cigs between the strut and tire.

= tires too big, wrong rim offset, weak springs and or shocks

2. Front frame rails have some rust.

What is the preferred repair method? = cut out all bad metal.

either new rails or very good contition used sections

many excellent restoration shop folks present here

(Matt and Dan McGinn - CT.) should inspect your

car for an accurate evaluation/estimate

3. 32/36 carb does NOT like to idle when cold, and

has some hesitation. I am at 5k feet elevation,

car was jetted for sea level. Plugs look quite

good though - any suggestions? = may not need

any jetting change if it was too lean to begin with.

Your choke and idle jets need attention

4. Car has a random miss at idle. Sometimes it

will idle pretty rough when warm, other times

it idles fine - any suggestions there? = see # 3

5. Front strut top mounts are SHOT, as are struts.

Should I go with camber plates, or just go with

new OEM mounts? And, any suggestions for

struts that don't cost an arm and a leg?

= Bilstein HD shocks all round

your stock springs,

and K-MAC upper strut mounts are the best

The Original ruber BMW mounts leave the steering

less precise than the K-MAC mounts

6. Speedo works fine, but odo does not -

do I need a new speedo? = new speedos are

available from BMW-

or repair by 1-3 good speedo specialists

7. Shifter has a LOT of play - 2nd gear grinds a LOT

engaging. Double clutching and or shifting VERY

slowly helps - best way to do a short shifter/rebuild

to get rid of slop? I have a Getrag 240 ready to swap

in, so something I can re-use/modify easily to

work with that would be nice if available! = FIRST flush/bleed

the Brake & Clutch fluids till "CLEAR" fluid flows from all bleeders

The need for shifter platform rebuild under the tunnel is very common.

Not knowing what oil, how old, condition of trans -

change to ATF now and after hydraulic fluid flush,

re-evaluate the trans shifting

8. Rear-ends - I desperately need an LSD! Going

to build a turbo motor this winter - are there

any rear ends that can handle some

decent horsepower? Looking to make

around 500bhp, street driven. = I'll leave this

one to the rest of the class.

Welcome to the party

c.d.

Thank you for the very helpful reply. Allow me to abuse your helpfulness a bit more

1. Added a ground strap to the motor - seems to have helped miss a LOT - jets still need some TLC, not sure how much I want to fool with it as I am going to install my Autronic SM4 on the car.

2. My early style hazard switch on the top left dash is broken - can it be replaced with the late style, or only the early style?

3. I've spent HOURS trying to diagnose the fact that my turn signal lights on the dash do not work. I replaced the relay, after which they stopped working all together. I then realized I had bumped the broken hazard switch, and the bulb holder was shorting out on itself. I fixed that, and the signals work, however, my dash lights for turn signals STILL do not work. Any ideas? My control stalk seems to be pretty sticky, often does not work when turning right - could this, or a defective hazard switch have anything to do with it?

4. Dash bulbs are quite dim - exactly what style bulb is this?

Thanks guys!

[jhenard]

6. Odo not working see FAQ here

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/content/view/72/32/

I got my gears from Odometer gears but someone posted using an RC gear. Search the posts

Instrument cluster bulbs Slyvania 194

see the writeup on cluster overhaul

http://www.my2002tii.com/how_to_dash_gauges.htm

[ardesign]

Anyone else?

[M3M3]

the search function on this site is a wonderful thing.......

[ardesign]

I have searched tirelessly, but I cannot find a resolution to my blinker problem.....

[M3M3]

hazard switch is central to all those functions. replace it. and you need the same generation switch. there have been some threads on the early/late switch issue.

then take the stalk switch out and clean it. may also need to be replaced.

ps - one 5 second search found this thread on blinkers not working and hazard switches....there are more..

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,337894/highlight,hazard+switch/

[ardesign]

The lights themselves work fine - the only thing that does not work is the light on the dash. Before I replaced the relay, the dash light would occasionally come on for one blink - leading me to replace the relay, not the hazard switch. While working in the car, I must have bumped the exposed bulb prongs on my broken hazard switch, after which the signals did not work at all. Bent the prongs back, and the lights work fine, just not the dash indicators....

So you are fairly confident the issue is still the hazard switch?

Thanks for your help!

[M3M3]

have you checked the inst cluster bulb for the indicator?

[ardesign]

Yes, I swapped the bulbs around to verify it was not the bulbs.

[M3M3]

switch or wire from switch to cluster.

[jhenard]

Did you see this in the FAQ?

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/content/view/40/32/

[M3M3]

lol! must use "site search" rather than "forum search"!