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Bad vavle? Pic attached


beast02er

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By the look of the chamber there is a oil control issue on number one, number two exhaust valve looks odd (bottom edge but it is probably just the picture and the valve being off the seat.

A lesser oil control issue present but both cylinders look way over rich. Exhaust valves should be brown to tan in color and the chamber and intake valves dry. The back side of the valves will indicate if guides or valve stem seal are the source of the oil.

Detonation will be very obvious with destruction of upper piston in the headland and ring-land areas. The rod bearings will be measurably thinner. Pre-ignition leads to detonation and is generally traced to the exhaust valve temp. A single cylinder engine will not continue to run in detonation, it quits. Only multi-cylinder engines will continue to when a hole or two are in detonation mode where the offending cylinders are generating huge amounts of combustion pressure way before TDC. Most properly tuned engines generate peak pressure no earlier than around 10 degrees Before TDC

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Well, I know about the oil issue and I'm working to solve that, the #1 exhaust valve looks weird in like a layer has blown off? Or possibly soot has flaked off creating the layering affect look?

I'll be honing/ringing, just want to make sure I take care of anything with the head before I button back up

Thanks

73' 2002 "red"

66' 2 Door Cortina GT

http://mk1cortinasearch.blogspot.com/

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Well if it was mine I'd break down the head and inspect the valves and guides. If I recall the miles on your motor are under 5000 since the last rebuild? A little time lapping the valves to insure seats are where they are supposed to be, at minimum. It is already this far apart try to check everything you can. The "layers" on #1 EX valve is combustion deposits, OK if not black.

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