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HELP --CLUTCH Problems--


zimmer

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I have just replaced my clutch m/cylinder and slave cylinder.

I have bled the slave but the release arm does not like depressing the piston when i take my foot off the pedal.

The car has been sitting for a while with a leaking slave before i bought it and so it is frustrating not being able to get her back on the road.

Someone told me that there should be a spring attached on the release arm to the bell housing but it had none when i bought it.

any suggestions?

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How are you bleeding? Do you have a pressure/power bleeder?

You may have to replace the slave and possibly the clutch master but this is not a big task because you mention the car was sitting for a while. (unless your pedal box is really bad)

Was the car ever operational? How long ago?

What gearbox is it?

What happens if you loosen the slave bleeder screw and press the clutch pedal?

Do the brakes work?

'79 & '80 Vespas, R75/6 + R90/6 (and a Triumph), '76 IH Scout II

E36 

'71 VIN: 2574356 - Nevada, Sunroof, RUST and a really nice '76

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i don't remember any spring being attached.

if the cylinder is not retracting, its not the fault of the lever arm, but something wrong with the hydrolic system, - you need to replace all the soft rubber lines in that system. if they sat for a while - especially dry, they can crack on the inside and constrict. and leak and such.

-my guess anyway

'70 project

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Pressure is Back!!!

left problem overnight-and to my amazement the next day i have pressure although it is still a bit sluggish on the pedal!

Looks like lines were still ok , so far, but at least she was engaging gear and moving with a good biting point and no gear crunching!

I have been bleeding the system just by using a wrench to open bleeders and a friend to pump the pedal like mad, although i managed to snap off the bleeder on the brake booster.its not leaking so im still positive!!

so now i can drive car but i have a slow clutch pressure and rubbish brakes.

Forget the spring idea-that was for the models with mechanical and adjustable clutches.

woes zimmer

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yes, waiting definately helps - you just had air in the lines- sometimes bleeding just is not enough and gravity just needs to work over time

. you can also do like 500 pumps that can help fix it-- seriously - count around 500

if you broke the bleed valve on the brakes be very very carefull-- you could loose pressure and totally loose that brake and kill yourself-

'70 project

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Completely familiarize yourself, read read read, with the braking system. Find out why you have three bleed screws and all the other things you need to know. Search this site for much mentioned info.

There is a bleeding sequence you need to follow. Starting at the right rear, left rear, right front and there is a sequence for those three screws that I forget right now. then move to the drivers side front and follow the proper sequence that I can give you because I forgot on those three screws.

Use a power bleeder as first choice. Or a friend and do it the old fashioned way, three pumps and hold down. release the screw with a tube on it and the other end of the tube submersed in old brake fluid. Tighten the screw, release the pedal and repeat on that screw until all bubble cease to present themselves.

Remember to keep fluid in the resevoir above the ports while you bleed.

As far as bleeding the clutch, Mike Pugh taught the ol dog a new trick on this one. Take a trigger pump type oil can, new or really clean, fill with brake fluid, connect the spout to the screw on the clutch bleed screw with a plastic tube, open the screw and pump fluid into the resevoir until you see no bubbles. Close the screw.

Do all of this precisely, clean up all that messy brake fluid, and see if you have brakes and clutch.

"90% of your carb problems are in the ignition, Mike."

1972 2000tii Touring #3422489

1972 2002tii with A4 system #2761680

FAQ member #5

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