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Removing the shift linkage on a '72 '02 - I'm still trying.


andrewro

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I received some great tips here last weekend, unfortunately I am still stuck! It's not like this car is covered in grime either. For a driver, it is pretty clean underneath, just stuck. I have soaked several times in PB Blaster. I have tried to make a press by zip-tying a small piece of wood with a screw thru it to the cylinder and tightening the screw to push out the pin. I have heard some say the pins might be directional, so I also tried DukeRimmer's idea of removing the sideways pin at the cylindrical connector using a nail attached to the jaw of channel locks. This allowed me to press it from the other side of the cylinder, but still no dice.

This thing is NOT coming apart. Neither pin will move, and the big pin back at the shifter is even less likely to move. I do not want to tow the car somewhere for something so small and so seemingly simple. I have not yet tried a torch as it does not seem like the safest option, but if I need heat, then so be it. I've already had to cut out the guibo and extend the slits in the mating tube of the muffler to remove it. I do not want to consider cutting here, it would take too long to find another part.

Thanks folks! You guys have been great with suggestions. This has been easily the most frustrating car repair I've attempted, in part because it should be much easier. Once the linkage is out, it will be time to build everything back up, which should be the fun part!

1963 Vespa VNB

1972 BMW 2002 - Sold :-(

1972 Porsche 911T - Sold :-(

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Mac, I have this one from an earlier post by C.D.:

31-1947558.JPG

Which shows me the basics. Is yours more detailed?

Didn't find an email address for you.

Thanks!

Edit: I'm in for the evening after more failed attempts with the channel locks / nail tool. Tomorrow I'll pick up a torch and see what happens.

1963 Vespa VNB

1972 BMW 2002 - Sold :-(

1972 Porsche 911T - Sold :-(

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The three pins are all straight. If the '02 gods are smiling they easily push out either way. They can stick from corrosion or wear. If corrosion you need to apply more pressure. Wear takes the form of grooves in the pins, so you'll need to jiggle the shaft holes into alignment while applying pressure. You could give yourself more working room by removing the distributor cap and rear mount to lower back of trans.. Heat applied to shift lever pin will turn the pastic grommets to smoke and dripping fire. Heat to the front link pin will probably damage the selector shaft seal, but I guess you're changing that anyway. I'd rather, however, invent a tool to apply more pressure than use heat. Perhaps a small flat bar with tapped 4mm hole, and 4mm bolt for a ram, attached to the link rod with hose clamps??? If you get one of the front pins loose, pull the entire shift assembly and rebuild on bench.

post-262-13667560159306_thumb.jpg

post-262-13667560160522_thumb.jpg

post-262-13667560161678_thumb.jpg

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Those are great pics! I made a tool like you describe but with a small wood block, which split under pressure. I will try and put something together out of metal. I will also try to move things around some as I apply pressure, in case there is a groove worn into the pin.

The bushings at the shifter are almost completely gone, but the input seal didn't seem bad. I am determined to at least rebush the shift lever. It looks like one of those two front pins should be easier to free, and I was hoping to rebush the shift lever out of the car, as you suggest.

Thanks!

1963 Vespa VNB

1972 BMW 2002 - Sold :-(

1972 Porsche 911T - Sold :-(

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