Jump to content
  • When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

leaking oil pan gasket .....

Guest Anonymous

Recommended Posts

Guest Anonymous

Is it poossible to change the oil pan gasket on my 02 without completely taking out the engine I have a leak thats messing up my driveway thanks chas

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Anonymous

You will need to remove all the 10mm bolts from the oil pan. 2 or 3 are very hard t reach and require a swivel. You will find that the oil pump keps you from sliding the oil pan out. Some people will unbolt the oil pump, I prefer the lift the motor. Remove the pan and scrape the old gasket from the pan and the block. Flatten the pan's contact surface and apply and kind of "gunk" to help the gasket stay with the pan when you reinstall it, or it will slide...

The job is somehow messy and not fun, but not too difficult.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Anonymous

The procedure is very simple. You will need the folowing tools.

1. high lift jack

2. medium to high lift jack stands

3. 2 wheel chalks

4. 10mm, 13mm socket and box wrench, extension, wratchet, a swivel makes life easier but is not required.

6. penatrating liquid

5. razerblade (to scrape old gasket)

6. NEW paper oilpan gasket and ultra grey sealent (Paper gaskets wont seep like the corque ones do). they are available at any independent shop but will have to be orderd. I can get them if you cant.

7. a solid 6x6 timber to go across the shock towers and body molding (make it a longer then you need so it wont slip). suposidly a solid 4x4 will also work but the 6x6 is better. remember you will be under this thing.

8. scrap piece of 2x4 about 8"s long.

9. piece of chain and 2 stong bolts with nuts and 4 heavy washers.

10. 1 can of brake clean

OK pull the car onto some concreate (safest materal to work on) and chalk the rear wheels. Reach under the car and drain the oil into your catch pan. While this is draining pull the nuts off the engine mounts. Remove the distributer cap (mark were its suposed to line up) keep the wires attached. This prevents the cap from brakeing on the fire wall when lifting the engine. Connect the chain to the REAR pickup point.

Lift the car on the center lift point (front sub frame). set the jack stands and remove the 3 bolts holding the end of the down pipe to the center section of the exaust. THIS gasket (donut) is resuable, now you can pivit the engine without damaging the exaust. Now drop the car back down as its easier to lift up the engine with the car lower (not to say it cant be done but its safer and you get the engine up higher).

Take your high lift jack and put the 2x4 on it. line it up sidwas on the oil pan ie across so that it passes behond the sides of the oil pan. this prevents damage to the oil pan when you lift on it. OK CAREFULLY lift the engine with the jack. WATCH that the fan does not damage the radiator. your rad hoses should have enough flex in them so you dont have to remove them. On one of the 2 cars I have done this on I did pull the fan off as it was going to hit.

Depending on your jack you may have to stop and attach the chain up and over the 6x6, now siting across the shock towers & fenders, and run the chain to the front atachment point (install with 1 bolt the other being on the rear). Watch that you dont lift too far and damage the fire wall or slip off the oil pan. I always stop perodicly and adjust the chain on the 6x6 as a safty.

OK now that the engine is lifted and supported by the 6x6 you can jack the car back up and return it to the jack stands. Now it makes sence as to why I had you drop the car due to the angle on the engine doesnt it. At this point stop for a drink (preferably non-alchololic), while you are at it get me one too. now undo all the 10mm oil pan bolts. you will have to fenagle the pan down around the front subframe. If you have to you can drop the front subframe (17mm bolts) but dont let the its weight be supported by the hardy disk (rubber disk on steering box). I personaly dont like to mess with the oil pump or tube removal unless I have to. ok clean up the mateing surfaces with the razerblade. I would take the time to check the torque on your crank nuts (sorry I dont have that spec). now clean the oil pan with the brake clean to get out any sludge and let dry. also clean the bolts at this point as they are usualy nasty. while this is drying take anouther drink and get a bite to eat this will be your last stoping point for a bit.

From now till the pan is in you realy cant stop for very long. OK pans dry take the ultra gray and put a fine line going aound the pan. then place the paper gasket on top of it (please make sure the holes line up). Next put a thin line of ultra gray ontop of the gasket. You do not need to spreed the ultra gray out as when it meets the block this will happen naturaly and will fill in the holes better. The ultra gray keeps the gasket from sliding and fills in any imperfections in the mettal. OK get the bolts ready and load one in the wrench. Lift and hold the pan with one hand in place and put the bolts in. Drop the engine in reverce order of how you lifted it, connect everything, change the oil filter and add the 20W50. now that everyhting is done go for a test drive to the stoor and buy the beverage you were wanting this whole time. sitback and enjoy an afternoon well spent.

Good luck


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Anonymous

all my oil leaks of note have been higher up. The pan's not under pressure, so it seldom just fails...

Spend an hour cleaning everything up really well, then run the car. It's much easier (and better) to change gaskets on a clean car, anyhow.

I once replaced the dist. housing gasket when the only thing that was REALLY shot was the dizzy o- ring. Duh.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • BMW Neue Klasse - a birth of a Sports Sedan

    BMW Neue Klasse - a birth of a Sports Sedan

    Unveiling of the Neue Klasse Unveiled in 1961, BMW 1500 sedan was a revolutionary concept at the outset of the '60s. No tail fins or chrome fountains. Instead, what you got was understated and elegant, in a modern sense, exciting to drive as nearly any sports car, and yet still comfortable for four.   The elegant little sedan was an instant sensation. In the 1500, BMW not only found the long-term solution to its dire business straits but, more importantly, created an entirely new
    History of the BMW 2002 and the 02 Series

    History of the BMW 2002 and the 02 Series

    In 1966, BMW was practically unknown in the US unless you were a touring motorcycle enthusiast or had seen an Isetta given away on a quiz show.  BMW’s sales in the US that year were just 1253 cars.  Then BMW 1600-2 came to America’s shores, tripling US sales to 4564 the following year, boosted by favorable articles in the Buff Books. Car and Driver called it “the best $2500 sedan anywhere.”  Road & Track’s road test was equally enthusiastic.  Then, BMW took a cue from American manufacturers,
    The BMW 2002 Production Run

    The BMW 2002 Production Run

    BMW 02 series are like the original Volkswagen Beetles in one way (besides both being German classic cars)—throughout their long production, they all essentially look alike—at least to the uninitiated:  small, boxy, rear-wheel drive, two-door sedan.  Aficionados know better.   Not only were there three other body styles—none, unfortunately, exported to the US—but there were some significant visual and mechanical changes over their eleven-year production run.   I’ve extracted t
  • Upcoming Events

  • Supporting Vendors

  • Create New...